@euanc How did you snap the frame ? Jump or hit something ?
Is the down tube box section tube or solid ?

I just came onto one of the gentle corners at the bottom a bit quick and hit the bank with the front end which sent me over the bars, I got off a lot luckier than the bike thankfully.

It’s hollow, only a couple of mm thick.

Hi wysiwyg, any of 426? Bright green helmet and goggles if it helps?

Cheers, Euan

You finished the whole lot with some foliage taped to that?!

Growing tired of the mortal coil are we??

Well I took the next stage easy to gauge the extent of the damage but it seemed ok for the last one so was able to enjoy stage 4 more, the frame is on its way to HQ Fibre Products to get repaired so we shall see how that goes.

Yeah I had a wee crash at the end of stage 2 on the Sunday and snapped the downtube, thanks to the stick and some cable ties I was able to finish though!

My Cube, before and after the EWS!

The answers to all of your questions can be found here:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/life-in-the-loops-no-beard-no-ride-2014.html

Euanc what make if bike is that? its nice

It is a 2Souls Slim Jim, absolutely brilliant bike which I will be very sad to see go in a month or so!

I had Lyriks on my Stumpy Evo, I vote just keep them at 160mm!

You can always lower them if for some reason you don’t get on with them at a later date by getting a new air spring.

I think it depends upon what sort of ride you wanted, rather than what someone else regards as sanity?

I am a teapot though

That’s exactly what I meant, maybe I should have written aggressive rather than long travel 😉

If you are going for a long travel HT and starting from scratch you would be mad not to go for a 29er, providing the numbers are right and it has a nice short back end it will be as fun (more so because of the speed) and handle rough stuff a lot better than a 26″ bike.

Just what I have found anyway.

Euanc, road gap at Inners?

It is aye.

Could it be used to fashion a blanking cover for my Alfine shifter?

Polymorph is what you want for that, another cool material which is almost the opposite of Sugru.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/250g-polymorph-n14at

Work away with these, If you want me to take one of the mech on a table etc so you can see it clearer just say.

‘Rotate the BB to the shorter setting and slacken the head angle’

Their knowledge of physics is impressive.

If you are looking for a Trance this one is cheap (nothing to do with me), doesn’t say what size though.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1485984/%5B/url%5D

Edit: Just seen the ‘M’ hidden in the description!

Two of my front teeth are implants after a backflip that went wrong, titanium screws with ceramic ‘teeth’, is there anything specific you want to know?

Cost wise mine were 2k a tooth.

Was just about to order a set from Wiggle, cheers!

I have done the GT Black on my SS, 32:18 on a 29er. It wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be and that was riding it all.

SS is great fun, if you want to get fitter quicker you would be silly not to loose the gears for a while.

Any three legged stands I have used fall over pretty easily, I much prefer the X-Tools/Park Tool style.

The latest CRC codes ended at some random time this afternoon. Bit annoying.

Funny that!

Done, good luck!

managing stock levels is different to actually sending emails

Not really when both are automatic processes, if computers can cock up one they can cock up the other.

As someone said before, you win some you lose some…

I had one built up fairly burly with Lyriks and it was a great bike, a real all-rounder. The only real issue I had with it was the lack of shock options, I found the RP23 got overwhelmed pretty quickly on DH stuff but I’m not sure if the newer CTD’s are better.

It did get me to 15th at the Fort Bill Endurance DH race and was more than happy doing 50km XC rides in the Pentlands so they are damn good bikes.

Cheap version of the Halfords pedal hook idea, it is only a ‘prototype’ but works well.

I was in the same boat a month or so ago and went for the Havens from CRC, no complaints at all, light, stiff, piece of piss to set up tubeless!

Time will tell if the bearings/freehub hold up but apparently Easton are good at sorting you out if there are any issues.

Euanc- Torque FRX.

If you decide on it. Use your credit card. Its the only method of payment that has a law applicable that gets your cashback.

And whatever you do…. DO NOT USE IT before fully checking it over top to toe. See my above quotes from them.

You MUST give them 3 attempts to correct a problem if you use the bike before claiming warranty. Its in their T+C’s you sign when you buy. As soon as you use it.. They are not obliged to give you refund.

Ok thanks for all the info, it’s good to know, just a shame you had to find it out the hard way!

Apologies if I have missed it somewhere in this thread but what model of Torque did you order apinkone?

Nothing else really seems to come close to them for the price so I’m very tempted, I possibly shouldn’t take the risk though!

Cheers

Many thanks for lightening my wallet!

I don’t doubt it, but everything can be improved!

…and if you are coming to Napier join the NUCC!

I have no use for it as yet but didn’t want to just throw out a dead rim!

Ok excellent, cheers guys!

If you think the trails are becoming too easy just ride the black, I really don’t see why no one seems to ride it, the climbs aren’t bad if you are prepared to put some effort in and the descents are more than worth it IMO.

Done!

I am sorely tempted by one of these too, the swopouts are here:

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSOOCNCSO/on_one_cnc_anodized_swap_out

Alighted.

First time riding the cross bike off road, prize for correctly guessing the trail at Glentress!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNuxHnfHv-A&feature=youtube_gdata_player

First get really comfortable hitting the jump.

Start by taking one hand off at a time, if you are finding this tricky then start by just releasing the grip with one of your hands, even just lifting one or two fingers off at a time will get you used to actually doing something while the bike is in the air as opposed to just hitting the lip and hanging on.

Once you can get both hands off one at a time and can do so comfortably then take a step back and start hitting the jump and just focusing on pinching the saddle between your legs when you are in the air.

Then start adding pinching the seat and taking one hand off into the same jump, making sure you are happy doing it with both hands.

Once you are happy with all that then its just a case of committing to trying it with both!

Remember to start small, just release you hand and lift it a few inches off the bars for the first attempts, getting them extended is just a case of lots and lots of practice, gradually throwing your hands out further.

Two other things to note:

1. Don’t start to remove any limbs or pinch the seat until you are at the peak of you trajectory, if you try to start any trick before the rear tyre has left the lip and you are in the air it will not end well.

2. When I was first trying them I was hitting the jump/drop with my braking fingers on the levers as I usually ride, once I tried hitting the jump with all digits gripping the bars it made it a a lot easier to both let go and get my hands back on. This might not help you or anyone else at all but it worked for me. Another advantage is that it helps you commit as you won’t be tempted to hit the brakes as much!

Like most things the biggest problem is getting your mind to play ball, you just need to commit!

Here is some inspiration for you, they are bloody good fun once you get them so persevere.

Done