@possum-hunter Got it done, thank you!

@possum-hunter thank you. I have done so. The tape is slightly looser. Is that just because it was re-installed, or because of how I did it?

?

What do I even call those types of nipples?

Looks like I might, and it starts earlier than I thought.

I can’t find a Mavic rim which matches the spoke count: 18 front, 20 rear. Is it possible I could find a third party rim which matches this?

@trail_rat Oh. I’ll just call that a nipple. Will I lube them first with penetrating oil?

@trail_rat What is the spoke cup? The little round thing at the rim end of the spoke, which is not not the nipple?

@DezB thank you!

@klunk I think I will order the Park Tool spoke key instead. Will I need to use a different device to hold the whole spoke and prevent it from turning?

@trail_rat Why were they difficult to work on?

Wibble

I will try taking it for a ride. If that doesn’t work, I will use the rubber rim strip & valve all in one. “Cheating”, perhaps but I have found them to be easier to use than the tape.

@dangeourbrain thank you for explaining how to access this thread after I started it.

@dangeourbrain thank you for explaining this. I have found the thread, where it already has 5 replies. I also see it listed on the main list of threads.

I do not understand if you are being sarcastic or literal.

If these replies are meant for me, I mean I am trying to start a new thread here on the Singletrack forum, because I need help with a tyre (question above). Apologies for hijacking this thread.

Forgive me for posting here, but I need help starting a new thread. When I try, it says it is a duplicate but I can’t see my thread posted. I am trying to post this

Can a tubeless tyre become unsealed & how?

I needed to add sealant to my tubeless mtb tyre. The valve core isn’t removeable, so I took a the tyre partly off the rim, added 80ml and reattached the tyre. I re-inflated the tyre to 50psi (tyre says 35-58psi). Air & sealant began to leak at the presta valve hole. I spun & shook the tyre for 5 minutes, when the leak stopped. It seemed to hold. When I got up today, it was flat. I repeated the process and air & sealant began to leak out at the valve hole again.

Funny thing is, it was holding air before I added sealant. Why did this change? Maybe I moved the valve very slightly when I attached the pump? It’s a Lifeline track pump with a booster chamber and a lever for locking on to the valve.

The wheel was bought new as tubeless, not converted later. I have successfully converted other wheels using valve & rim strip, not tape.

Are new topics moderated before they can be posted?

@tjagain thank you. I have ordered this one
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-alfine-sgs70008-cjs7000-cassette-joint-unit-y7zr98010/

I don’t understand why they need to make several different types.

I think I’ve spotted the problem: the cassette joint & the gearbox are “toothed” so they match up. Problem is the cassette joint has 8 “sockets”, but the gearbox has 10 “teeth”. It makes sense that the cassette joint will sit higher up than it is meant to. I’ll try and upload pictures.

Where can I find the right cassette joint?

Now I can’t get the “cassette joint” on 🙁 I follow the instructions carefully, but the “cassette joint fixing ring” isn’t low close enough to click on.

A few things:
– The “cassette joint pulley” doesn’t perfectly match the one on p13 of the instructions. In the instructions, the hook shaped opening points to the rear. Mine points down.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-SG0004-02-ENG.pdf
– The “cassette joint pulley” sort of shakes around. It’s as if something is taking up space so it can’t get close enough to the sprocket.

What exactly am I doing wrong? 🙁

@tjagain I don’t know what about that prompted me to try the clip again, but BOY that was fiddly. I think I have it on. My technique was to sort of prize it on bit by bit, plus a lot of brute force.