To temper my gripes about the V2 above, I hadn’t looked at the current range in a while…the V3 seems to solve some of my issues with the ability to run 2.6/2.8’s which will raise BB and bring back some plushness – and, yeh, as mentioned above the Bronson’s moved into newer territory so 5010 looks the most sensible as an allrounder.

Definately go large if between sizes- Large spot on for me at a ‘short-armed’ 5’10”.

If the Blur 29er had been released when I got my 5010 I’d have gone for that one with a 120mm up front…which explains a bit my misgivings on my V2.

The easy process for striping down the linkage/ pivots to clean & regrease is a massive bonus for all these models if used in typical clarty conditions…. + the threaded BB is the other big reason to go SC, as is the warranty…..

My 2C. To offer a cautious view, be aware of some of the oddities of the 5010 in todays market…I have a V2 CC 5010 and if I had to replace it tomorrow there’s no way I’d buy the same thing. I’d go for a 29er for that length of travel, or if sticking to 27.5 I’d go longer travel & Bronson. Don’t get me wrong the 5010 is a very competent bike, nicely made, reliable- but to be critical it’s just feels like a solid allrounder without really blowing my mind at anything (which it should do given how overpriced it is). It’s not designed to be that plush which I think is what you’re friend is alluding to, rather to be nimble and adjustable, which it is good at. Pedals alright but not great (i’ve had much better). For me I’d describe its character as wanting to be ridden like a 4X bike all the time, shooting Youtube up (or whatever the kids do nowadays) and excels and can tolerate that super aggressive style. It has great frame stiffness to excel at this and feels tough enough to take a beating but on the downside feels a bit overbuilt for more general XC/Trail type riding. On my local lumpy terrain the low bottom bracket is a constant irritation, great for railing corners hard on smoother trails but get pedal strikes which you can count on a by-the-minute basis on natural rocky terrain, though this could be mitigated somewhat by running bigger tyres.

Maybe they’ve fixed a few of these things on the v3, but I believe it’s even more aggressive so in a bit of a no-mans land. Definately make sure you test ride before you buy…I wish I had done so…

Thanks Carbonroadrat- If I ever thought of XC racing properly it was 25 years ago….did I mention, am not young.✌️

I should add that I live in a very hilly area, and unlike most parts of the country there are solid 30-45mins offroad climbs in almost every direction, some with sustained sections well over 10% gradient. It’s here that Strava works well offroad on a climb as the margin of error has less of a percentage impact compared to a climb of just a few minutes. And I find it more fun doing these than Strava on the road where it’s just a suffer fest, there’s more skills/technique involved on an offroad climb. Works great- not just for roadies.

Got me thinking with this rate of climbing thing- as it’s these slow speed climbs that e-bikes are exaggerated- with an example of the fastest times up Alpe-de Huez being around the 40 minutes mark (most fastest times being juiced up to eyeballs 37min Mr Pantani) thats a 1135metre climb so climbing rate about 1850 vertical metres per hour. Terrain and mild lack of air pressure ignored, if you could maintain that rate it puts you from Everest Base Camp to Summit in under 2 hours – or from sea level to summit in under 5 hours. Bad analogies aside, thats an incredible rate of ascent for a human powered vehicle.

So an e-bike in these situations with an ability to scoot up things at not far off that kind of rate must feel superhuman…..so e-bikers, how long can your battery last with current technology at a steep climbing rate before it goes pop? How high-how fast can you go with the limits of current technology?

VAM= rate of climbing. You can clearly see it when viewing Strava on a desktop, but not so visible in the app. Most Garmin units can display it as a metric either instantly or averaged over 30seconds. For those of us who like seeing how quickly we can haul our asses up mountains it’s useful, but VAG’s are cool to.

Dry prime ground conditions, Tail winds, TT bikes. drafting, riding in a bunch, Ebikes, heading out especially to target one segment?
there’s not a whole lot of difference really.

Not a whole lot of difference? All fair game – except for the EBike. Was looking at Chris Froome’s stats recently, the VAM figure is interesting (Vertical Ascent Metres per hour), his KOM’s for a sustained 30min climb are around 1600 VAM. I’ll be happy with anything over 1000VAM. A guy took a KOM off me offroad and his VAM was around 1500 for 20mins, which raised suspicion. Thats bonkers fast, really surprised me, possibly de-restricted I suppose. From comments above it seems ebikers get some satisfaction out of this, which is weird as it’s not the rider doing most of that work it’s a motor, so where does the sense of achievement come from other than hurting Stravaists fragile Ego’s.

That’s the point, it’s about you challenging you but in relation to the limits of what is possible, so comparing yourself to others is essential in determining those peaks of performance. Like in running, in cycling the great thing is that this is relatively pure in terms of human performance (drugs/ cheating/ and small variances in bike technology aside) – compared at least to other forms of ‘racing’ cars/boats etc..where equipment can be more dominant.

Ebikes change that aspect of cycling massively.

“If you want to really see where you stack up against others then enter a race” – yeah I know Strava bears no relation to racing. I’ve been riding for 30 years, used to race, done epic events, have nothing to prove and no interest in racing again at the moment – but Strava is a bit of fun for a lot of people and good for motivation to keep fit, even within the margin of error mentioned above. But these Ebikes are so fast in a long grindy MTB climb scenario that it makes any comparison pointless.

thanks ‘tomnavman’ this explains it “A few people I know with ebikes have complained that there aren’t as many ebike segments as Strava hasn’t copied the segments over, they have started with a blank map. I guess it will get these soon enough as people add them, just like at the beginning of Strava”

So the EBikers don’t compete on the existing segments, they have to make new one’s. Makes sense now. That seems like a Strava flaw they need to rectify- surely would’nt be hard to seperate the data into two streams per segment as they do it for QOM/KOM anyway .

But competing ‘only’ against yourself defeats the whole point of Strava, may as well just not use it at all- and go back to a stopclock (used to do that 20 years ago to train for XC). I want to see how fast it’s possible for a normal rider to get up a climb vs other riders. Ebikes are so fast it’s actually no competition.

Zero, absolute zero. Lifelong vegetarian here (parents vegetarian, their parents were too). I should get a flippin tax break or something as in today’s attitudes it may appear I’ve been trying to save the planet for 44 years….

Geniunely interested in the right answer to this as I’ve always been told copper slip with Ti, and heard this said by framebuilders. Googling reveals that bi-metallic galvanic corrosion occurs when an electrolyte is present, does the minute electrical energy of the materials have enough for this to occur or does a current have to be present? Or maybe more important for Ti when in the presence of an electrolytic fluid such as salt water?
Or is it just recommended to prevent galling?

Ahhh. Drop in bearing in a Ti frame….that’s quite unusual isn’t it? Rather than press in cups. What frame is it?
Google Bimettalic Corroison people, its a real thing. Not occurring between similar metals but between different metals on the anode/ cathode scale- Titanium is known to be reactive.
Of course it probably won’t make any difference but sometimes it’s nice to do the right thing.

I am no engineer but I believe Copperslip is required as just grease may not be enough to prevent the bimetallic galvanic corrosion that would occur between titanium and an aluminium cup. The aluminium unit in this case being the one susceptible to corrode, removing threaded BB’s or cups after a long period of time could be an issue. I’ve always used a Park Tools anti seize specifically formulated for Ti frame prep (essentially a fancy copper-slip), and had no issues. An engineer will be along in a minute to call baloney.

My 5010V2 did exactly this when new. Took me a few rides to eliminate pivots/ bushes/ cables and turned out it was in the shock – was knocking under compression when rider on or off the bike. Sent it off to (then)Mojo for a warranty fix and it’s been fine since- I think they muttered something about the SantaCruz specific tune and altered something inside (but not sure). Mine was so obviously wrong that it does beg the question why these supposedly premium brands don’t do a simple quality check before it goes in the box to the customer….ho hum.

Beware that the ground between High Cup Nick heading North to Great Dunn Fell is hard going, deep soft peaty mossy grass no obvious tracks – It is possible to go that way but be prepared for a slow battle and lots of pushing. If done, it’s the sort of thing you’ll do once. The main Pennine Bridleway going up to High Cup Nick is good both up and down, you can do a short loop around High Cup Nick going up the Bridleway then heading back down on the Southern shelf or head up to the obvious ridgeline above that shelf where there are marker posts for a rideable track that takes you behind Murton Pike and drops into Murton – Its easy going and not technical this way.

Most people going for a bigger ride will go right over High Cup Nick on the good path to Cow Green reservoir and then loop round on mix of road and wide Bridleway either up to GDF or up to Cross Fell, again be warned that the upper section here heading up to GDF on the Easterly side is a slog on not so great track. Most people would use the better track to go to Cross Fell, this make a large loop then descend off Cross Fell on one of above options.

My tip for the Top if you want a descent off Great Dunn Fell – is a lesser known but ace descent which must be one of the longest in the country….it is not legit, being Cheeky using a section of Pennine Way footpath dropping down the face to the SouthEast side of the paved road up to Dunn Fell, it drops you behind Dufton Pike. Its a good surface and very dry at moment so I mention it as its fair game, I’ve ahem…never encountered anyone on it all the times I’ve done it. Look on Strava- you’ll see it.

Ok I retract ‘sloppy’, don’t want to cause offence. I imagine the interviewer caught G.Perry on a bad day, and got their own back. It wasn’t sloppy, just disrespectful, and read quite out of odds with what I always enjoy from the mag.

This article really pissed me off too. I am completely biased as I relate to him as an artist who has also ridden all their life, as two exclusive but complementary activities – and know many artists and musicians who also ride (though they’d probably keep it quiet in the ‘art world’) but this struck me as sloppy journalism. I have nothing but respect for Grayson Perry as a wonderful artist and an eloquent, astute cultural commentator – the fact that somebody so enmeshed in the art world even has the time to engage in our shared interest is something to be celebrated, and there are a hundred interesting questions to be asked. I remember recognising him in the field at Beastway in what I believe may be the same year he won the Turner Prize.. it was that green stumpy and some brightly coloured socks that drew my attention (as I ahem..passed him) when I realised who it was I was honoured to share the field with him.

Seems they must have rubbed each other up the wrong way….did he call her a hipster? I can also totally relate to his riding style, we really did ride in a different way back in the day when XC was mountain biking. His attitudes seem completely inline with his works questioning of ‘tribes’ and adopted stereotypes, and it’s no surprise that an artist takes something and does it their own way rather than worrying about fitting in to the perceived norms. I wonder if she offended him by not asking more about the work (be careful what you say in artists studios…) whatever it was, such negativity shouldn’t make it to print.

If it’s any help, I have a Seiko Monster that I’ve had for about 10 years. They’re not the most accurate automatic movement and not intended to be at this pricepoint – they are however regarded as a Klashnikov of movements and highly durable. The dilemma is that if it’s loosing or gaining, then the cost of servicing can be too high relating to the value of the watch – you can even buy a brand new drop-in movement unit for about the same cost of servicing. I found that the best solution is to learn how to regulate it yourself, it’s really easy if you’ve got good eyes and a steady hand – I learnt how to do mine after a bit of google searching, bought all the tools needed for about £10 on eBay, and it’s simply a case of popping the caseback and carefully moving the timing adjuster…repeating after analysing the effects of adjustment after it’s settled for a while against a clock app (or just your computer time!) and can easily regulate mine to within 5secs a day. It’s normal to find that you have to do this every now and again, but certainly not worth paying for unless it’s a high end Seiko Marinemaster or sim. You can easily buy silicone grease for the caseback seals, or indeed new seals, gaskets etc online – there’s a whole following for Seiko Divers online as they seem to be regarded as a bit supercool, it’s easy to find part numbers and advice.

On Strava’s privacy settings page there is a checkbox that allows you to remove your data from Heatmaps….

I too have multiple bikes, the one bike that continually astounds me with it’s breadth of ability is my racey carbon 29er hardtail (Flash 29er) This clocks up more miles than any bike I own. I use it as my winter road bike and if I’m on form and trying, can keep up with most roadies on it. It weighs 20lbs and can be hustled (very fun sport to piss roadies off) At the other end of the extreme it’s capable on technical trails. I can ride this anywhere I ride my Full Suss…even in rocky Lake District terrain, yes it’s harder- you have to concentrate 100% and use “skill’ but this makes it fun. I have a modern trail bike SC 5010 and in contrast although it seems very capable at crushing everything easily, I just feel so ‘meh’ about it…just feels so detached, slow and unrewarding.

A great example of the 29er HT abilities was driven home when I took it riding in Italy, and was able to cover huge miles on the Strada Bianca roads- wound up some poncy Italian roadies by overtaking them on the road, then on the same ride found the local loamy downhill tracks in the woods to finish off- just dropped the tyre pressure and had great fun. Came away wondering if there’s any other type of bike you could get close to doing all that so comfortably on…..maybe one of these new fangled big tyre drop handlebarred monster cross things?

For me theres nothing that beats the satisfaction of being underbiked and yet covering challenging terrain and feeling its you thats done the work – not some fancy overpriced overcomplicated modern flounce machine.

That’s where all the Maxxis Ikons went.

deleted

……or save yourself the hassle and go get a new box of long valve stemmed inner tubes – job done. One can never be packing enough rubber.

Out of interest – my Cannondale F29 medium goes in the back of ford focus (mk3) with both wheels still on. I was a little surprised…but grateful of this, as it saves wee bit of fiddling..but in honesty removing the front wheel is quick and easy.

Love my F29 by the way, it’s exceptionally fast (climbing speed is closer to my road bike than my old 26er hard tail!) – it has that bit of comfort twang in the saddle when combined with the save seat post to make a short travel full suss almost redundant. Handling is spot on, Lefty is so precise in steering, light and with longer servicing intervals than common. The front end setup is so stiff that the only negatives I encounter is some hand fatigue on rocky trails (poss down to the stiff carbon rims).

Oh, and QR rear is a total non-issue. Its plenty stiff enough..especially with an RWS skewer.

“I just rounded off a dropout bolt that is fixed tightly into the f^%#%^#^% frame”

Easy there Tiger – I’m assuming this frame is second hand? Be aware that many users would have ‘Red’ loctite’d the RDS dropout bolts in place as they have a tendency to undo otherwise – If so they will need lightly heating to soften the loctite. (had to do this with mine)

What Evans should have said was “Sorry, not in stock but we’ll order down a few sizes, call you when they’re in and you can come and try then buy the ones you want.” You shouldn’t have to slap a wodge on *your* credit/debit card for them to get your business.

Sorry, completely disagree with you on this one, the problem here is people are out of touch with what large companies have needed to do to stay afloat during the downturn. This large company has a vast array of obscure products kept at the warehouse, and a sensible selection in store – do you really expect them to shift stock around the country at a financial loss on a whim? They’d go under in no time. Can you do the same with the internet only giants?

Yes, the OP’s expectations are unrealistic, It’s just not the nice fluffy world we live in anymore.