Just checked their social media, still no joy, no updates, I don’t think much of West Yorkshire police, looks like you can be one of the world’s most incompetent theives and still be going about your business almost a week later, what do you have to do to get caught, drop your freaking wallet at the scene and leave a trail of blood to your house. Bikes will be long gone by now.

Minion or magic Mary front, minion rear for now, aggressor when the sun comes out, it rolls fast and it seems to last ages, I haven’t tried the dissector, I hear its rather disposable after a short while, especially if it sees a bit of tarmac occasionally.

We can’t really compare it to carbon frames, it’s the titanium lugs that are the detail and the main cost here, they just buy in batches of straight carbon tubes, cut to size and glue them in, they aren’t making carbon, they could just as easily use something else for the tubes.
But I hope they get that glue at a good price, most of it gets wiped off with a rag 😀

Seeing how robot bikes faired I think the Atherton name is vital for sales, that build video was interesting, I did wonder about the upper seattube lug, injecting glue after the tube slides through so it’s not a lapped joint like the others.
There’s got to be a better way to remove those lugs after printing, it’s soooo labour intensive and I wonder how long before those machines will pay for themselves, its definitely a good method for custom geometry but you’d think it would be cheaper than hand laying carbon with costly molds and ovens, £4650 for custom option frame is pushing it.
I’d like to see one fully painted in colours, its not like the carbon has got an attractive weave showing like a Hope or Unno.

Absolute bunch of scumbag cretins, so panicky and breathing so hard his mask came away from his face, all the bikes will be too scratched up to sell when returned, the dropper post stanchion on the giga is probably knackered. If the police can’t catch him ASAP then they’re more useless than this pos, to not wear a mask with his kids earlier is so dumb and bringing an easily identifiable kid along plus staring into the camera and wearing the exact outfit has got to be the most braindead criminal in Britain, unless he is foreign and already on a ferry.😀

There might be a new colour for the 2022 alloy, the carbon has kraken blue, weight saving is kinda pathetic for the £700 price difference, 50g in medium and a debatable better shock.
Personally I hate the horizontal part of the downtube, slightly better on the alloy but the cable routing around the bottle cage is a bit iffy. The aesthetics is the main issue for me, do you like swoopy carbon and nicer routing or tig welds.

C1 appeared in 2020 but was in forks labelled as 2021 model, b1 appeared in 2019 forks, 2018 forks had the original debonair without the red seal head and foot nut. These will have the b1 if the description is right.

Ultimates will 2.1 rc2, a lot of people prefer the b spring but who knows what’s in there b or c, these will be oem so you never know with crc/wiggle, I bought some so called 2019 forks but they turned out to be 2018 with crapper debonair and some old 26″ lyriks that should have had lockout came in the dh version.

When theres a broken cassette with teeth missing on a forum 8 times out of ten it’s a Sram one, also shimanos hg+ let’s you shift under load better and shift down the block with less clunking.
I sometimes think I should have gone with 10-45 cassette with the shorter cage mech as I barely use the 51t, you’d think they’d be easier to get hold with most people opting for fuller range.

I made my choice based on sram cassettes being ridonkulous prices and went microspline, mind you XT cassettes are now £155 at CRC, pretty sure I paid nowhere near that for mine, I might treat myself to one of those fancy Garibaldi ones next or whatever they’re called for £250, still way cheaper than top end sram.

I’ve got nukeproof horizon and superstar upper sets and had no issues, the nukeproof upper seal is well designed, but I go Hope for the lower cup, for 44ec a superstar would be okay, the seal is just like the Hope one and the crown race is black opposed to Hope’s odd silver choice.

A Blackspire snaggletooth ring reduces chainline by 1mm and its reversible so running it the other way turns a M8100 to 55mm chainline, is there anything out there to turn an M8120 into 52mm chainline.

What about the lockring tool, if you haven’t already got one, the blue ones on ebay for around £7 made by risk work great.

I’ve build quite a few wheels now and Spank rims have been great and taken more abuse than other brands I’ve built up, I usually go with Hope hubs but my last build was a Spank Hex hub and so far it’s been flawless.
Shame they currently don’t do the colour options on their wheelsets, but they are definitely worth a mention and consideration.

Someones got too much time on their hands.

Isn’t there two fortus 30 versions now.

Wasn’t the enduro 23mm, you might get away with it, if not then change it, but try adapter first with a 5mm re-dish.

A new rim rebuild and a Hope boost adapter which is just a driveside end cap that’s 10mm longer and costs about a tenner.
Or sell your wheel and buy new one, whatever is the cheapest option.

Can we not transfer this to the bike forum where it belongs and make it bigger than the rich energy vs whyte post. It would be interesting to see everybodys opinion on what the next new standard or product we never knew we couldn’t ride without will be, or what’s on your wish list.

Shame those cranks are 55mm chainlines, bloody good prices there.

Quite a few downhillers at the world cups run 25mm rims with 2.35, 2.4 and maybe the odd 2.5 so I think you’ll be fine, I doubt you’re up to their speeds and cornering ability.
Some brands 2.6 are equivalent to anothers 2.4. What’s your 2.6.

“I need to get some more rides in to asses properly”.
This is not the forum for that sort of thing Benos. 😀

People who argue about spacers under the stem vs higher rise bars being the same really need to get the tape measure out and do a practical test.

Long torso 5’10” definitely puts you in a large frame category, unless you’ve got T rex arms 470/80 sounds about right, shoulder width, arm span and length also plays its part.

Why not use an EXT spring, that’ll be the lightest option, then a cc Valt, nukeproof sls are £49.49 at CRC but not that light, about 100g over a Valt depending on what lb you’re after. Whatever happened to all the titanium options.

Okay, the issue is finding an axle for 135mm wide rear with a maxle 1.75 thread if I’m not mistaken, rare as, ( unless you spend on a pricey maxle ultimate) but what about 142 with a 7mm washer/spacer similar to what Oneup do with their thru axle system, might not even need 7mm, depends on the thread length, just get a cheap brandx one for a tenner and experiment with m12 washers under the head then find the right size alloy spacer, ulraturn on ebay could machine one up for you.

That would raise the headtube thus slacken the seat angle. So no.

Can’t go wrong with 30mm, although I’m running 28mm on the rear cos I’m not a fan of any tyres over 2.5

I thought the guy Clint Eastwood played had won it earlier.
Congrats junkitmo, even if you do need to change the freehub.

You’d think Halo would have them in microspline version by now.

@weirdyweir, @davebrookes, I’m confused by that response, I was totally joking with the grumpy emoji. Just thought it was worthy of a mention and encouraging, happy for you, but if you win again 😡.
Not really 🤣.
I’ll congratulate anybody who wins, apart from ### ######.😀

Shimano have a new version of their GR903 with new Ultread sole, but I’m waiting for a review or two before buying as they’re a bit pricey.

Max tyre is 2.4 so I’ll guess no, if it does there won’t be much room and the tyre could hit the seatclamp before bottoming out, the design of the hope seatclamp for example can do that with the correct size wheel on some older frames when using tyres slightly wider than original spec width, the tyre could also smack the saddle as well when it’s dropped down and you bottom out.

Thats two wins now for weirdyweir, not that I’m bitter or anything.😠

NINE POUND SEVEN OUNCES ?, ruddy Nora.
Questionable calibration indeed.

Lovely colour, lucky you kept the extra links after shortening that chain.😃

Copper for bb shell and seattube and raw ti bolts, but I just use mobil xhp222 grease with my colour anodised ti bolts, controversial.

I’ve never heard of this, paper boys/girls/non binary/whatever and pub staff yes, but posties and bin men/”, hell no, the amount of times I’ve had to go looking for my bins they should give me a tenner and the amount of soggy letters and other people’s letters pushed through my letterbox by the current postie, not getting a slap will be my tip for him.

Just to get back on track to the op’s question, squirrelking was spot on, the other options are long bolt, longer bolt, conical washer bollox. For anyone else doing the same go for Hope, it limits the amount of times the threads in your lowers get used if you remove or adjust the caliper regularly, and I think its a more stable platform.

On the cheap end, I’ve found the lifeline version more accurate than the jobsworth planet-x one, that’s just my own experience, they are both re-branded by several other companies, my lifeline one is under the BBB brand. I use a digital one for higher torque settings.