Last time I dropped one of those I found it 2 months later, 25ft away, if you use silicone sealant and have some dried up in the nozzle you can make a little tapered bung with it, until you finally find that screw or buy another. Sjs cycles seem to have every little spare shimano can make and I’m sure they’re a universal part that fit all or most shimano shifters.

I know someone who couldn’t budge a worn out cassette, he did the quick released cassette tool in a vice trick but used an SDS plus drill on chisel setting, it worked a treat after destroying half the cogs though.
I’d wrap an old chain around the cassette, then trap the chain in a vice, use quick release through the cassette tool then use a long pipe over the wrench about 2 foot will move it or nothing will.

Any decent shop should have one, it’s not a difficult job to do and hard for a cytech mechanic to mess up, I bought my own Hope spot facing tool years ago. You just use hope 0.25 shims to fine tune.

I’d change to Hope ones, it’s a much firmer/better fitment, just look at all that unthreaded upper bolt before it actually makes it to forks mount, it’s more of a pole than a bolt, awful design by sram, even worst than their gxp.

Don’t think kerley got the village idiot reference or the Keith lemon’s david dickinson one.
Must admit the fees do sting when selling bikes or anything over a grand, especially when you have to take an offer just to get rid.

A bit late, but for anyone else with similar probs, the star fangled nut not being deep enough can cause issues, especially with hope or burgtec’s alloy bolts.

PlanetX has some dirt cheap aerozine 40t expanders at the moment.

Burgtec’s Greg minnaar signature bartender pro’s are pretty good, with or without gloves, although going back on a bike with DMR sect grips felt amazing, there’s such a massive difference between lock on then back to slide on.

I’ve used my feet in fivetens and a hairdryer after sweating my arse off for an hour just using my hands and levers on what seemed like mission impossible. Such a huge relief when that bead finally pops on or off.

Getting a crown race with a good seal on like Hope’s or superstarcomponents is the important bit, then kinetic are good for headset bearings, I needed a 51.9mm when a 52mm wouldn’t fit after pressing the cup into the frame, I would have been up the creek without them. My one from kinetic has been perfect, but why we have different heights and degree combinations is beyond me, but typical of the bike industry in which the word standard has lost all meaning.

Just making a valid point, whereas you are insinuating someone is a thief, calling them dodgy & suspicious based on nothing really but your opinion that so far most people don’t agree with. Not a nice thing to do.

About this item is on mobiles, much easier than getting the computer out and you can answer questions straight away, unless you’re in the shower or otherwise engaged.

They’re a 100% positive feedback member since 2013 and know what they’re selling, looks okay to me, I’ve written shorter descriptions and I’m 100% too.

Already asked Hope a few months ago, they say yes but there’ll be less range of movement than shimano on shimano. I’ve got the same set up.

Going of first pic, saddle height correct, bars look low, get a higher rise bar about 20mm higher if possible, it’ll feel like a slightly longer stem too and put saddle as far back as poss, 1° more or less backsweep won’t make that much difference, go up a size on your next bike though.

Alloy NUKEPROOF mega, very simple cable routing.

Just curious, you getting mk4 nomad, if so you lucky bar steward, well apart from the metric shock and boost rear, fingers crossed for shock included.

Last time I had a similar issue all I got over the phone was the “it should be with you tomorrow” routine from a different person everytime, so eventually cancelled my order.
I just hope they haven’t done a ubyk on me.

Apologies sharkattack, I may have took it the wrong way, but as you say spesh sponsorship is for frames and tyres, so they’ve failed on half of the deal this season then press released Demo29 with enduro tyres, you must admit that’s not great, at the end of the day something hasn’t gone to plan, it’s all speculation, nobody really knows, and the blacked out rear minions only adds fuel to the fire. At least we agree on the flimsy sidewalls, but they don’t get my vote. Maybe minions are the answer to the original question, but who rattled Geex’s cage.

Sharky you’re so argumentative, always nit picking other people’s comments, as for my comment, its naive of you to think that’s the only reason, I can buy butcher bd,grid, slaughter grid hillbilly bd, grid, purgatory grid, in 29″ 2.3 Bruni’s preferred size, but they can’t manage to put a downhill casing on for a world champ. No excuses really, they should have had prototypes already running last year, or maybe the boys just prefer maxxis.

You’ve got 2mm spare, when the spring is clean, but shock springs aren’t meant to come that close to bottoming out, but if you rarely bottom out your shock you’re fine.
I misunderstood this post at first.

If you mean the shock needs 2.4 but you’ve only got 2.25, the spring might bottom out before the shock does, ideally use the same stroke or a bit more. A 2.4 in a 2.25 shock would be okay if you can get the slotted spring retainer on. Some people never bottom out their shock, if you bottom out regularly you need the correct stroke. On second thoughts, its only a few mm, so you should be okay.

Wheels or Hope is the way to go (or Hambini if you’re loaded).
Only one thing worse than crocs,
Crocs with socks.
Hey wwaswas, he got them from a normal shop, they shaft you everytime, but they’re good for kicking bishop’s up the arse.

I doubt someone with a pricey custom nomad is dumb enough to ride around with a loose headset, unless he is Harry main.

Don’t buy specialized 2bliss,sidewalls are weak as, great value but rip very easily and are a pain to get off. Grid and dh versions are a lot tougher but doesn’t Loic Bruni and Finn Iles use blacked out Maxxis, that tells you a lot about specialized tyres. Buy maxxis, conti or schwalbe when on offer.

Yes it’ll fit, a threaded rod with big washers or some pieces of hardwood can be used or a vice if you don’t have a bb/headset press, just protect surfaces and make sure it goes in straight. Gxp cranks need a spacer to work with shimano bb, you can get them off ebay.

Well that’ll learn me to mess with Lustyd and Joemmo, but you’re still hijacking this post and I’m still right, apart from the blatant pisstake, sorry, mistake.
Thanks to Hatter and Hedfree for worthwhile contributions.

You’re totally covered under warranty so you should definitely get a new front triangle if your the original owner. I can’t see the Hope headset cup being the issue.

Why has this topic been hijacked, its supposed to be about shimano micro spline freehub longevity.
BTW Lustyd, its teach me not learn me, I’d edit that post as well.

A couple of people have mentioned using a non boost 2x as a single ring, that basically is a boost single chainline, thus irrelevant.

Look out for clear all weather tape from Lidl, in store about twice a year, it’s like really thick sellotape, I’ve put it on my stays to protect from heel rub and on my downtube. Only a few quid.

Too much info alert. Get a log book.

I wouldn’t, 29-30mm internal width is good for 2.6″ 25mm is at the very minimum limit. If it’s 25mm external width then absolutely not.

The Wera ones as mentioned are excellent, better than overpriced Park tools, although deep set grub screws cannot be accessed due to the shaft being thicker than the allen head, not a common problem, but it’s their only flaw.

A non boost simply puts the chainring 3mm closer to the stays and also the main pivot on some frames, I can’t see any issue seeing as the spider slams up against the bb just the same, you’ll have a better chainline for climbing, but the smallest cog might be noisier.

Old avids needed them and unthreaded bolt through adapters need them, so it depends on your adapters, I personally only use NSB adapters because they’re cnc machined, Hope are also CNC’d but only available in black or silver, I’ll never use cast/forged adapters they are garbage, some aren’t even flat where the caliper rests.

Clearly influenced by that pro bmx lowlife scumbag Ryan Taylor.

If your rim is an ST i23 swap it over to an ST i29, they’re going super cheap at chainreaction/wiggle at the moment, should be the same ERD, you can’t go wrong with either tyre, soft orange magic mary is great, super soft purple magic mary has unbelievable grip upfront, my personal fave tyre.

M4 stainless grub screws off eBay in a variety of lengths, I got some cool anodised alloy pins from moovebikeCo a few years ago, they use a socket or spanner to install, think they’re still in business and use PayPal.

Matt gold and red on the forks or matt gold and dark metallic grey.