Doesn’t that 36h rear kinda limit your rim replacement options.

To be fair that inline method must be for barely there risers, whereas jayx2a wants to go up from 20mm, so that method doesn’t apply to jayx2a or PROPER risers (yeah I said it) and that method is still the enemy of upsweep.
jayx2a would definitely benefit from 30mm or anything over 20mm. What’s the worst that could happen.
Can we at least all agree that up and backsweep is measured when the rise is vertical, or have I just kicked the hornets nest.

Joemmo and breatheasy are spot on, it’s far from normal to have the rise parallel with the steerer/ head angle, I’d go as far as to say it’s the dumbest advice ever, as it turns upsweep into downsweep on slack frames. It’s called rise for a reason, the rise on my nukeproofs is near vertical thus taking full advantage of it. Setting it back to 65° would be absurd. High rise bars set correctly instead of spacers gives more reach, fact, giving the feel of a slightly longer stem. I used to think there’s no right or wrong, its personal preference with bar roll, but clearly there are limits.

Turq & orange, it needs that touch of orange to make it pop. Turq & grey on black too dull.

As a buyer of those mavic ex 830 rims, they are a nightmare to get schwalbe tyres on. Apart from that, they’re nice and strong. 30mm internal is ideal for 2.3 to 2.6 tyres, some downhillers even use 27mm internal on the rear. Anything over 30mm is overkill IMO unless you’re going for 2.8 tyres.

Why won’t my pic upload.

Too many people confused about internal routing rubber frame bungs, if they’ve ended up inside the frame,(doubtful, but I’m not familiar with frame) it’s a re-do routing job, £50 vouchers is poor considering it’s about £15 worth to them. Burgtec caps with matching colour bolt look great. Find the colour code and get a touch up pen, yes it’s annoying, I had a similar issue, but I scratched my frame worse within a month. If they’ve got another, you’re within your rights to swap, bit of a faff but they might improve offer if you want to return it.

Pretty sure you’ll need a 210×50 shock and 148mm (boost) wheel.

Surely it’s about finding your own personal sweet spot, no advice from anybody could change my mind on what I find most comfortable, you’ve got to feel good to ride good, everybody’s different, bar roll, bar height, lever angle, ride style, nobody’s the same, as long as you understand the effects of bar roll etc your good, there’s to many variations of torso length, arm length, shoulder width etc, so there’s no right or wrong, its totally down to personal preference, that’s why those all in one bar/stems won’t catch on.

Didn’t know Orange respirated frames.😊

Friday afternoon job, or Guy Martin paid them another visit and had another go at welding, I think that particular colour makes the welds stand out more, but I totally agree with the shambolic statement, I’ve seen dozens in showrooms and on the trails and not noticed welds like that before.

If you’ve worn out your chain what about your cassette, isn’t it recommended the replace both at the same time. I’ve got an unused wipperman 10SX stainless, still in its packaging, I’ve also got a barely used XT 771 cassette 11/34 to sell after moving to 11sp. Will stick both on ebay for £45. I’ve also got a used 10SX with loads of life left in it.

A bit late responding but NTN have two different seal types, low friction and full contact, depends how well sealed your hubs are to choice between the two, I think the metal cage instead of plastic is the secret to how good they are. The ones in my front hub have outlasted anything else I’ve tried. SKF ones were notchy had my rotor rubbing on hard turns, total rubbish. Hambini swears by NTN and he knows his stuff and his bottom brackets are legendary. Rolls Royce and mavic use them too.

progold or progold extreme, metal friction reducer formula
and can be used to clean the chain too. For a thin lube it surprisingly stays put. I’ve used Pedros and muc off in the past, but now I won’t use anything else.

Enduro abec3 are okay for hubs and reasonably priced from kinetic or winstanleys but the best by far are NTN from Hambini, a few quid more but worth it. I have had issues with skf ones from superstar, considering the price I’d avoid, I’ve also had good and bad from Hope but NTN ones have been superb so far.

Leatt airflex pro, a bit pricey unless you can get in the sale. Great pads and not as sweaty as my previous gform despite the extra side padding.

If you’ve measured 43.84 then it’s ZS44 top n bottom, simples. Change to EC44 bottom when you get tapered forks in the future.

Wyntv, the last one was great.

Nothing pimp about that lower leg protection 😊 and I won’t mention those washers between caliper and adapter, oops just did. Classic 203 bodge.

I’ve used silicone spray without issue for years, it’s cured a squeaky seal on the master cylinder too.

Shimano Icetech 203mm. Not actual floating, but look like it.

Just when I thought you were getting the hang of it, oh well, there will be about 3mm showing if you get a zero stack bottom.
I’ve just noticed the achtung sticker, are you in Germany or UK.
I’ve worked out I can pack it thinner, so £2 if you’re in the UK.
Send your address in private message then you can PayPal me when you get it.

Correct Langers, zero stack press in just like external, they are just internal with a 3mm ish lip showing, but the upper has the extra top piece, head angle steepens slightly with a ZS lower, less than half a degree though, ZS upper is the way to go, EC upper would be pointless. You’re getting it though 40mm refers to 1.5 steerer, 30mm refers to 1 1/8 lower and 28.6mm 1 1/8 upper. I can send you my older version ZS red upper if you pay postage, saves you a bit, I only used the lower.
Just to verify, the bearings sit inside the cups inside the headtube with zero stack and I can recommend nukeproof.

Excuse me dezb but I’m helping not confusing, I know what I’m talking about,and how does bish win at that price. Langers,
you could even contact your headset manufacturer to see if they’ve got spares, but you’ll be going back to square one, struggling to take it off again in the future, the nukeproof ones are quality, and cheap too £13 or £13 +£2 for reducer.
If you need upper its zs49-28.6 T3 a bit dearer though.
Ps dezb, those NP cups come with bearings, numpty.

Sorry made a slight correction, it’s right now.

Hi langers, sorry for the delayed response, the pic you showed was for a cartridge bearing and won’t work with ball races, also a cracked crown race will damage the bearings as they roll over it, your best bet is to remove old fashioned crown race and change headset to cartridge (sealed) bearings type, most are these days, I have an unused superstar red upper one for you, zero stack, can send for a tenner, although you only need a lower cup, the lower needed is ZS49-30-B6 that’s zero stack nukeproof from CRC, or EX49-40-B7 with reducer crown, that’s external cup but needs reducer for 1 1/8, that option will future proof for tapered forks. A Hope lower will be type D.

Typical arsehole bike courier against typical arrogance of a tall suit trying to make a point and make him brake, clearly saw him coming, just two arseholes clashing heads. Normal pedestrian would have just stopped, avoided a near miss and shouted dickhead at him, no sympathy for him but the bike courier wants locking up, they’re like boy racers relying on everyone else being good drivers.

Think the bearings are the same regardless of frame. Should say 608 on them. 22/8/7.

I bought an XT M8000 1X without ring from CRC and it strangely has granny ring holes too, the 2x looks the same but the spider should differ and offer different chainline, maybe OEM stuff differs from buying aftermarket.
Forever changing standards and compatibility issues, oh the joys of mountainbiking.

Looks like old school heavy ball races type, cartridge bearing headsets use split crowns usually, I’d get a new headset, that one is definitely EC, looks like 49mm 1.5″ reducer headset. You can have EC or ZS with that 1 1/8 steerer, it’s up to you.

My mates got some sunline v3 25mm rise 711mm wide 25.4 for you, black unused, he’s currently emptying his loft of bike stuff as I’m typing to stick on ebay. He can send tomorrow, is £15 free p&p okay, let me know. Open to offers too.

I keep checking this post, think it might go on forever 🤔😊, cheers Phil, I didn’t think emojis worked on here.

Bizzare, sounds like a front mech issue, but it works with the deore, strange. Did you try finger and thumb release, to be honest the upgrade to XT is more about the rear shifter, with the multi release, anything will do for the front, my mates about to put some unused XT front shifters on ebay tonight one 10sp and one 11sp both i-spec b for £12 each.

If loctite doesn’t work, then longer bolts with probolt alloy nyloc nuts in black wouldn’t look too bad, last resort is always a helicoil DIY kit.

Knew I’d get that one, yes, I’m quite competent, I even build my own wheels. The last ring was an Uberbikes oval 32 (didn’t like it). I swapped over, didn’t even need to remove cranks, but it fouled my oneup guide so I’m using chainring washers as I know the guide is set to the correct line, swapping from Uber or snaggletooth or Superstar raptor to Burgtec will give you the same problem, Blackspire and Oneup correct chainline to 49mm making the difference even greater.

That’s a weird one, Bigginge is right, that’s normally a 203mm bodge, do those centrelines rounded edges make them a bit bigger and have you measured the rotor, l have those 180mm post mounts on my rockshoxs so use 180mm N.S.B adapter with 200mm Hope rotor and don’t need washers, you can’t beat precision CNC’d adapters, you gets what you pays for.
Something’s not right. It’ll do i suppose but it’s not right, sorry. Good excuse to treat yourself or your other half to a new brake though, looks a bit rough, sorry again.
Hols2, going off your comment you might be overdue a lower leg service.
But I am guilty off messing with my bike too much.

I’d never buy their rear hubs, every model has had issues going back several years, just check this forum, and I find they never answer questions, or take on board complaints until they get inundated with the same one, they’ll never learn or listen to constructive criticism, so their next rear hub will be dogshite too.

Was nickfrog’s suggestion, stick with m7000 just get smaller chainring, I got rid of a 30t because I kept spinning out, so a 28t would mean getting overtaken my 10 year old nephew. It’s great for climbs but bad for fast descents. Personally I wouldn’t go that low even with a 10t cog. 51t let’s you go bigger upfront if anything.
Onzadog was spot on, taking full advantage of hg+ requires the chain too.

Think the ring will be fine, but superstarcomponents raptors are 12sp ready. Don’t you need that new shimano chain to get the benefits of the new hyperglide plus.

Careful when the banjo bolt gives, a tenth of a turn can suddenly turn into a quarter, followed by some expletives, its best to use your other hand to brace for that sudden release of tension, then one hand on the banjo the other holding the spanner still while adjusting, a tiny speck of fluid is okay and shouldn’t introduce air.