you could build up/buy a dynohub ft wheel for that.
makes sense for commuting.

There’s some really cheap xc RS forks in the rose catalogue.28mm stanchions are going to flex quite a bit more,but you don’t seem to be a gnarcore rider like everyone else on stw,so I wouldn’t worry.
I’ve got toras on one bike,the uturns,the damping is pretty basic when hammering it hard.but asides from that they’re solid dependable forks.easy to service yourself as well,like all RS forks.
I’ve had recons,got pikes,toras and sektors.fwiw.

and what you save to charity.

I’d look at the wtb tcs rims.
built the older version up and no problems.

or those carbon rims at $100.

I’d keep the pro2s.

The new syntace wheels look nice.

not for them.yes for us.
read sovdal’s book on cyling anatomy.
if you’re interested.

You can never really go back to a place,asides it makes you feel old.it’s not the same place anymore.
I grew up in london.lived all over.went away when I was 16.
There are few places where people don’t look to other places for inspiration.London is one of them.
Never found that again,it does make all the other places I’ve lived feel provincial.
Having said that i’ve never chosen to live somewhere similar,ie,NY,or tokio,

Miss it,and don’t.
like most things in life.

what’s the rubber sock/oversize end cap for?
still a mistery to me.
the plastic bit goes round your seatube,under the seatpost clamp.
I filed a groove in my Qr seatclamp,fitted a sks mudguard stay nut and now the cable doesn’t kink anymore.
the smooth metal bit with two holes is to ‘guide’ the cable-it’s not necessary I found,I’m sure I’ll find a use for it in the next 15years.
bleed is easy.

tandem.

you might be interested in tom phillips’ book,bicycles – vintage people on photo postcards.
http://tomphillipsinfo.blogspot.com.es/2011/06/vintage-people-on-photo-postcards.html
have a look at lepetitbraquet.fr at the bottom of the page they have quite a few articles on cycling pioneers.as well as more ‘modern’ stuff from the 20s and 30s.

someone above talked about a snakeskin RQ,snakeskin is a schwalbe thing.
got them on both mtbs,2.4 on ht,2.2 on fs,both ust.
Great tyres,wear really well too.so work out a fair bit cheaper than schwalbes.Bit heavier though
Only run them in the front,RR/fat albert in the rear.

sizing (measured with vernier calipers)is the same as schwalbe,but I don’t know why they seem a little fatter.

No tyre will make up for bad technique on wet roots.

sd5 are cheap,nicely made and have a small lever.I’ve fitted them to some (ex)gf bikes and they prefer them to shimano levers or the cheap shite they had on before.
sd7 are nearly the same but let you play around with the leverage,though they’ll be on/off if you set the lever travel to minimum.
I think they’re cheapest from rose,or bike24.
lever travel could also be due to housing /pad/caliper flex.
I’d get some sd5 and the sd5 (I know it’s not the model name,but I can’t remeber it,cheap avid anyway) brake calipers.and change the stock pads,at least on the front.+new housing while you’re at it.

try building up the base with more tape,sometimes a long rubber band round the tyre helps,
more air volume is usually the easiest fix.

can blow off alpha rims,or non tubeless rims,not read about them coming off Shimano rims.
have you tried fitting them with a tube and leaving a few days?
had a non tubeless tyre come off a tubeless rim.
I store wheels by hanging them from the ceiling with a hook.The tyre blew off,the rim jumped off the hook,bounced on the table,missing my hand by a few inched,then settled on the floor.sealant everywhere.a chunk out of my desk,the wheel was fine though.
Good thing I hadn’t ridden it yet.
I’d not experiment too much,Al.But then again I have had my front teeth redone 4 times in the last 20 years.

none,rollers.

stupid enough to get caught?
that just means those teams/athl with the money to cheat better will get away with it.increasing the divide between them and the others.
armstrong is a good example.

read pvcycling post on this.wankmeister is a wise man

sex is an expression of something.usually desire.
I’ve got nothing against it,but if you’re feeling empty then it can leave you feeling emptier.

i’ve had relationships where the sex was great,abundant and fun(ie3x a day,every day,for a year).but the relationship was a bit shite.
similarly some relationships that were great but didn’t have that much sex.
besides,when you’re depressed the first thing that goes is your sexual desire.

I don’t know what to say.As impossible as it sounds,some space whilst giving her support.
I don’t think she knows what she wants,so it’s a bit tricky asking her.

having said all that,people do tell you what they want/need,but though they use the same words,they mean them differently.
good luck.don’t despair,be a good partner,that’s all you can do.

the gobi is similar to the older style road saddles,in depth of padding.
you could try something like a rolls,or that other san marco saddle I can’t remember the name of,the one with rivets at the back.

I took a gobi off my mtb because I prefer a slr on the fs.
works nicerly on the ht though.
got the antares on a road bike,it’s very different,quite similar to the slr.

i’d find a shop that lets you try them out/has demo saddles.it’s cheaper.
even cheaper,leave it on your bike,a 100g weight diff in a saddle is nothing if you’re comfortable.

I used to work in a hotel,the best method I found was to put it in the bath in one of the bathrooms,I didn’t run a bath though,just used the showerhead.a quick rinse of the bath afterwards and then dry the bike with a towel.i found shampoo worked better than showergel.
all this at about 4am,obviously.

you can build up a cheaper,lighter faster more comfortable bike for less.plus it will fit better.
it(pashely)looks pretty though.
brand x mtb frame 14″
rose cromoly mtb fork.
8sp cassette/alivio/x3 grip shifters/rd
brand x trekking bar,cheap 25.4 stem, cork grips.
big apple tyres,light tubes,a bit of sealant
cheap mavic rims,db spokes,deore hubs
110bcd crank,cheap bashguard on outside.jumpstop.or nexus crank,diy wooden bashguard bolted on to the chainring.
plastic bmx pedals,some change colour in the sun.
saddle,up to her.some cheap light seatpost.
pitlock skewers.sks fenders.klickfix basket/handbag/shopping bag.
I’m sure you could do all that,new, for less than the pashey costs.it’ll weigh a fair bit less and be more comfortable.

the dna moco should fit.floodgate nearly open and damping nearly closed works for me.

no.but they come in lots of colours

black 105 hubs,cxp33,silver comp spokes.32-36.a spoke key.
in budget(from germany)

most bikes can be converted.
wider saddle.high rise stem,super riser bars,like the nc17 trekking ones.a cheap light xc mtb frame,some steel rigid forks,big apples,vees,1×8.tyres,pedals and grips are what she’ll notice most.
and fit.obviously.

al.28/32 H2 front and eno rear.should make a nice solid build.
appparently those japanese tubeless tyres are supposed to be really good.
But I think tubulars make more sense.
Rims can be had cheaper/lighter.More tyre choice.
The fusion tyres cost as much as good tubulars.& are harder to find.
you can run sealant in tubular tyres as well.

Less chance of rolling a tyre I suppose.
having said all that,I’ve been using them for 4?5?years and they’ve been great.

Aren’t speediums wire rims?
I found that inflating the fusions with a tube inside smoothed out the bead and made inflating much easier.
All done with a track pump though,so I’m used to the 2-3h misery of trying to get tyres to seal.

da wheels and hutch fusion tubeless.
it was a bitch the fisrt time round I remember,but the tyres last quite a bit.
does anyone know where they sell the 28mm hutchinson fusion?
got some alphas I need to build up,have read quite a few neg reviews about using them tubeless.

Tried that.felt pretty bad.
A road triple running 24/26 -39-bashguard works allright though.
74bcd (granny) is usually 30,but you can go down to 24.
a compact crank works fine.34 or 33 ring +bash.
have a look at the non series shimano compact cranks,they’re pretty cheap in germany.

having said that.maybe with a 36 on the back.
you can get a 38 ring for 130bcd,but it’s not going to change much.
I’d look into a spiderless crank.

or a shimano nexus 33t crank from rose,only about a tenner.+ you’ll need a sq taper bb.
only come in 170 tho.but it’d tide you over until it wears out.

he’s right you know.

having said all that,a 3sp hub gear is nice as well.though you’ll have to choose gearing carefully.
I built a 120mm 3sp pompino up for not much.killed the nexus hub,but my input ratio was lower than advised as I was using it off road.clearance for 32-35 and guards.vees brake nicely with drop bar levers.Cheap.
disc brakes might be worth having if it rains constantly.but if you keep your rims/pads clean it’s not a real problem.

.
28mm tyres,fenders.drop bars,sti or bar end shifters.def a hub generator for the front,maybe for the rear light,a backup rear light.saddlebags are great but if you leave it outside it’s a bit of a faff to get the leather straps on and off, so I’d go klickfix.some 3m reflective tape on the bike-front,rear and sides.some reflective cloth tape sewn on the saddlebag.
low gears,I’d get a triple and run 44-30 replacing the outer with a bashguard.depends on terrain of course.
but when you’re tired and it’s windy you’ll forget the big ring mafia machismo.besides they’re all in front of their computers.
something with long reach brakes.with short reach brakes you can only fit 23s and guards.
a frame pump.decent tyres.marathon supremes are good.
a rack is handy.you could use a rackbag instead of a saddlebag.I find them easier to load/take off.
a heavy lock left at work if you’re leaving it outside.
a small bar mirror if you’re not using bar end shifters.
spds,winter shoes summer shoes,overshoes.
that’s most of what I know.

petrol rationing?that’s what the war was for.
the incentive is and always will be on spending.
Look at the consequences when the cash flow slows down a bit.
look at the automobile lobbies against mass transport in the us.

and finally look at this film,ripley scott’s first.it’s good.
but asides from that,look at the streets.
that’s what will make cycling safe.

though I don’t think that’s even a remote possibility.
unless you move somewhere pretty remote.even then,you don’t really help the problem,because you’ll need a car.

a nuclear war’s electromagnetic pulse would render cars built after 1980 or so inoperable.
DI2/campagnolo/mektronic users might have problems as well.

that’s about as likely as a shift away from the cash cow that is automobiles.

that depends if you were wearing goggles/glasses or not.

not even canvasrider/freerider2?
dunno if it’s flash,but it’s nice.

wtb makes some tcs rims,got some of the older eyeletted ones for about 35eu
not as wide as flows,but build up nicely and work fine.dent a bit easily though.

shibbolath,look
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_records
78 on the road bike.45 on the mtb.fire/gravel road.
63 on the flat on a road bike behind a truck.
that’s km,not miles.

I’ve got a ht and a fs,both with 140mm on front.
The ht feels faster.but it’s slower.(that’s me being slower,not the bike)
Ht does makes my technique sharper,but that’s not the bike,it’s me not concentrating fully sometimes.
I’d say going back and forth is good,you gain by riding both,and if you swap over regularly (1xht,1xfs and ride often you end up just riding,with imput from both.
Forgetting what bike I’m on.
That’s made me better.

sov

http://www.centcols.org/
remembered.

you can get some cheap toras/recons for about 80eu sometimes,from rose.
as been said,you’ll need a hs-about 10-15eu
a stem is another 10-15.
I’d just get some really good tyres,you can swap them over when you get your new bike.
maybe some ergon grips;I remember they took a lot of the sting off riding rigid.

why not change ch.rings?
could fit some bar ends inwards,as well as bar ends in the normal place.
looks horrible,but works quite well.
try big apples,liteskin ones.or marathon racers if they make them about 2″ width.