what about rolling resistance?
You’re going to put more force into a drivetrain in snow or thick mud than on tarmac.
Though on the other hand you’re going to put more torque on the drivetrain on a standing start on tarmac than on snow,mud.

Plus the fact that calculating pedal force as linear is not realistic, less so with pro level technique pedal stroke (track mostly) more so with normal riders.

fair enough, I think that’s probably the best idea, but they didn’t have them things in the 70s, wood’s been around a bit longer, and you can find wood anywhere, often for free.

I find I can stay on my feet longer with boots on.

There are a few trainer type boots available, maybe boxing boots?

look for tabbing boots, or something similar.

thanks chief.
It looks good.

On a kid’s bike.

I think I’ve got a mental picture now.

An integrated seatpost weights more than a non integrated one in steel.
I prefer Baum’s solution of painting the seatpost.

The seatstays, 14mm is thin enough, I might consider 12mm. but those look to be 8mm.

No tubing manuf. has anything below 14mm in catalogue, and even then, Columbus’ high end tubing (spirit; life) has 16mm min.

Still, it all depends on who you’re building for.
Bit like the twin tube bike we did years ago, on smaller sizes it was great, something medium-big and it didn’t work.
that’s the great thing about custom bikes, they’re custom.

he’s not the only framebuilder in the world..

**** the quote thing.

The integral of power over time defines the work performed. Because this integral depends on the trajectory of the point of application of the force and torque, this calculation of work is said to be path dependent.

The same amount of work is done when carrying a load up a flight of stairs whether the person carrying it walks or runs, but more power is needed for running because the work is done in a shorter amount of time. The output power of an electric motor is the product of the torque that the motor generates and the angular velocity of its output shaft. The power involved in moving a vehicle is the product of the traction force of the wheels and the velocity of the vehicle. The rate at which a light bulb converts electrical energy into light and heat is measured in watts—the higher the wattage, the more power, or equivalently the more electrical energy is used per unit time.[1][2]
from wikipedia.

to me that means a masher will break more things than a spinner, even if they both ride at the same speed.

And the broken chainstays / unstuck carbon rear triangles I see are from mashers.

and a non integrated seatpost, and at least 14mm seatstays.
and a bit less matchy matchy.

asides from details, nice bike, and a great builder.

northwind, exactly.
I put a rockshox sticker on the rubber damper on the brompton. just my personal joke.

Seeming as I’m painting the fork anyway, I thought a rs1 paintjob would be amusing/incredibly sad.

I’m working on a new mounting solution with Porcelain Rocket, for a bikepacking specific 650b fully rigid steel bike I’m building,
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/04/26/into-the-wild-a-650b-rambler-bicycle-with-porcelain-rocket/

Scott is a great guy to work with, and his quality is top notch.

Though you might want to wait and see what we’ve come up with…

thanks,
I tried to do a google image search, but no luck

did find this tho, is it in there?

it’s not tho, saying they ride shit would be.

must get to that museum.

I don’t even have a car, and I don’t even know how many bikes I have, so I can relate.

I’m doing a belt drive soon, with the new conti belt, I’ll let you know.

get a cheaper one.

good mud clearance.

Ben, We’ve got a thick wide plank of wood in front of the jig, back when this place was making lots of frames they’d be someone on their feet brazing all day. They came up with this solution.

That’s the same one I’ve seen in a few boxing gyms; skipping rope is done on wood.

Cement flooring does your knees and feet in.

I use Altberg boots, got a few pairs for different temperatures, insoles as well.

I think your method of testing is a great one, if a bit expensive!

In your logs do you describe the ride conditions as well?
Ie,mud,dry,wet,etc?

It would make your comparisons even more scientific.

What’s the point of such a big cutaway?

might try shorter cranks for a while.

& weight.

it’s not as easy as it looks, especially with modern components.

cardan drive ftw

Customer insisted on grey. came out pretty well.
I’d say get sparkles.
I do a matt or glossy clear over the powdercoats.
wears better, and looks better

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/category/mtb/

It could have done with a more inspired paintjob, but it’s a nice bike.

well I’m FROM the uk.
anyway, http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/04/25/enduro-27-5-flavour-or-is-that-650b-or-a-33mm-external-butted-essay/ building this next month.I’ll put it up when it’s finished.

sorry, here it is.

there’s the conti drive belt.
getting one in for a build in the next few months.

The key is getting the rear triangle as stiff as possible.
anch chain beltline.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/94186938@N04/14002327381/
this is a spare dropout from one we did a few years back.

like this one myself
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2013/12/21/29er-good-fillets-are-a-thing-of-beauty/

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/02/17/n1-lifestyle/

learnt a lot just by reading the thread, excellent work.

Aracer, it shifted, fine, but being lower that your setup, and using 3 wheelsets (11-32 to 11-23 being the two extreme cassettes in the range of 3) the chain was dragging on the cage, on the tighter cassette.
NO way aound that,except to lengthen the cage.
I’ve got enough to do without inventing work for myself.

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/03/14/front-deraileur-mod/
24-50: 26 teeth.

euro-great pic.

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/01/09/canada-vs-canada/
here’s a pic of the blackspire vs the raceface one.

depends on the dropouts, if they’re vertical it should be fine.
CS are 22 or 24m dia, while seatstays are 14-19mm, even a spindly road bike will have a stiff enough CS.
It’s a simple job, I prefer chainstay mount as you avoid the strut, works better on thinner seatst.
ditto regarding costs,it adds up, but The Bob J prices are fair.
you could avoid the repaint by sanding down the burnt area and retouching just that, then use zip ties for the hydro hose.it looks neat if you do it well.

a customer came to us saying he like the logic frame, we built him this.


more here http://www.flickr.com/photos/94186938@N04/sets/72157639566490095/
The Logic, well I can’t see the appeal, It’s a pretty basic taiwan tig frame, no name tubing, no finishing work(see seat tube cluster) and an uninspired paintjob.

For that price you can get a fillet brazed frame custom built out of decent tubing like Zona, Max is always a good choice,Spirit or Life is a little more & choose your paint. only problem is you’ll have to wait a few months.
I’d go beyond the Ritchey, even with trade discount, it’s overpriced.

with framesaver, or even without, and basic maintenance a frame that’s had all the vent holes sealed will not rust.

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/02/17/n1-lifestyle/

should have tidyed up a bit, normally looked a bit better, brompton under the desk.
Key was taking the front wheels off and hanging them up.
3rd floor,no lift.

I win?