barbours.

ultremos 28mm or the new One 28mm.
l

collaborating with mudhugger on a direct mount solution
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/hardtails-winter-and-the-mudhugger/

Saw the huggers and though the design was great, but I wanted to integrate the mudguard to the frame.

so I did.

What Seth Says.[/url]

The single cyclist is in the weakest of all positions. He’s against the shoulder, so he’s at the mercy of whatever detritus the road offers up. He’s alone, so there’s no one to back him up. He’s fighting for a narrow sliver on the edge that doesn’t put the cager in much, if any risk. Even if the rider wins this negotiation, the cager loses nothing and the rider’s risk increases exponentially.

nicely written article.

clicky[/url]
weights, the splitter is 116g, an equivalent length of seatstay is 12g.

will write a few words, plus weight pics, later.

the other style of splitter, shown elsewhere in the thread, is the same weight as the dropout it replaces.

best to carry an umbrella.

meanwhile, somewhere warmer..

That’s great!
& just goes to show that the best bicycle frame material for fights is steel.

used to in Spain.
Drivers are about as bad in Italy, but the roads where I am now are much quieter.

Try changing time you go out? or routes?

I think a lot of the gravel stuff is just road riders wanting a bit more peace and quiet.

not sure about that, but women loosening their corsets (or taking them off) to ride bikes was the origin of ‘loose women’.
not too far off topic is the fancy cycling book

looks good!
you could do a vinyl wrap, as on the bike that won the coveted, ugliest disc braked bike award.
or you can strip it off, paint a base (white) mask it, paint it black.
It’s a lot of work, but just go for it.

doing my own masking, I got the artists curve tape, makes things much easier.

I could say the lee mackormack (sp?) and brian lopes book.
it’s good.
as is the art of mtbiking, robert hurst.
bit slim but worth a quick look; essentials, emma guy.

I’d say get a coaching session, I did one a few years ago, he spotted my mistakes immediately.

Failing that, work on you basics.

Some good dvds, too.
best by far art of trials by ryan leech.
fluidride is great.
dirt school is good, but you’re probably past that level.

+1 epicyclo.

I think that with carbon rims it can be a good idea.
you’re keeping the same system weight but lighter rim weight.

plus more reliable wet/dry performance.

A bit like the move from steel to alloy rims, apart from the brakes being changed.

JCL, true, but niche is the new black,there will always be options.

Oldgit, right as usual.

Jacob46, true.

Aracer,thanks! what do I win?

I think a gopping paintjob (like the camo bike I posted), is a gopping paintjob, no matter if you have discs of cantis or dual pivots.

Now, most of the bikes on this thread look pretty similar, the only difference in a lot of cases is the paintjob.

And paint comes and goes into fashion, the current retro revival aesthetic is coming to an end.

Paint, it’s important, I’d say most bikes are sold on paint. but it’s only paint, I’m sure if and when the owner of that bike gets tired of how it looks he’ll strip it down and repaint it.

Personally, I like the looks of brakes integrated into the fork, and under the chainstays, but both are more expensive and harder to work on.

So, discs aside.
What makes a good paintjob?

Here’s what I’ve come up with.

Emphasizes the structure.
Ages well.
Defines the use a bike will see, ie, a dh bike is going to have different colours to a randonneur
Most importantly, I think, you should like it, it doesn’t matter if it’s actually good looking or not.

So if you want a swedish m90 camo in chrome pink and yellow, why not?

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/05/05/painting-the-29er/
Granted, it’s not a road bike, but asides from geo, the rest is pretty similar, any thoughts?

got the wtb kom rims, nice price, nice weight, nice width. on xt hubs.

retap to italian? then use gxp cranks, only outboard ita thread bb I know of.

Clubber;
About 80% of the stuff we do is lugless fillet brazed, agree completely, though there are some modern lugs (35mm dowtube) they’re few and far between, plus they add a bit of weight, and the look is wrong for a lot of bikes.

I do have a thing for bilaminate lugs, you can do the angles you want, and have some lugness in your bike, depending on the bike, it looks great.

got a disc braked roadie coming up soonish, I’ll put it up, just hope we can agree to a paintjob we both like, though it is his, so as long as he’s happy, so am I. besides, paint is cheap enough to change once every few years.

JCL, agree. I’ve retrofit a lot of frames lately, easy enough with steel.
as soon as dics hit the 105 group it’ll explode.

of course, if you go custom you can buy what you like, did a bike with these a few years ago.

ah deraileurs, all those bits, hanging off, what’s that all about..
🙂

Aracer, sometimes its like that, tho sometimes (often, thankfully) it’s great.

this could do with discs, might as well go all the way.

It seems sorted, before coming up with something even betterer I was thinking of using that setup.
having said that, it seems something to speed up production more than a benefit to the end user
have a look here, some good info.

well, I spent 8ys in barcelona, I think I had about 3 wet rides in all.rolling stuff, nothing steep and long.
now in tuscany, some good hills, but tame.

braking does depend a lot on weight, I’m 70kg now I’m out of shape, fighting fit I was 67kg, so I’m never going to need that much power in any case.

so I should have said, there are a few situations where discs are better FOR ME, but lots where..etc.
🙂

binners
thanks!

tom83
always liked that shade. nice.

paint is bloody hard.

agree. there are a few situations where discs are better on the road, but lots where there isn’t much benefit.

I’m sure we’ll have the choice (and the chance to mutually disagree about it) for a good long time.

All, or nearly all, the road frames I’m building at the moment have disc tabs, that way, with a new fork, they’ve got a new bike, maybe the seatstay bridge with a hole in it isn’t the prettiest thing, but it’s a small price to pay to be able to ‘upgrade’ your bike so easily.

I just think we should all have the choice, and to be able to make an informed decision, you really have to try out things yourself.

even camo coloured bikes, it’s the price of freedom.

most of you will have read this already, but we accept something as pleasing esthetically when it fulfils a function.
or something like that-

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/the-problem-with-disc-brakes-in-road-racing-is-40867/

we’re just exploring different paths to get the same answer.

epicyclo, I’ll have a go.

thanks,
he’s a paying client, so he’s right. (sic)

though I do agree.

he covers sportscars in that stuff, so he wanted to do it to his bike.

ah well, won’t/can’t say more than that.

one of the good things about building bikes, is that clients ask you for something you like personally
one of the bad things about building bikes, is that clients ask you for something you personally don’t like.

I did this 3months ago, still don’t know which of the two above is true in this case.
more pics here https://www.flickr.com/photos/94186938@N04/sets/72157640290910616/with/13152294015/

and writeup(s) here

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/01/30/camo-is-this-years-black/
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/03/01/the-trici/
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/03/17/camo-disc-road-bike-or-versatility/

http://www.liteville.de/t/25_66.html
this is useful
http://bmxcolor.narod.ru/
this can be useful
this too.
http://www.fixiestudio.com/

wrote a post on paintjobs for bikes and how to choose them.
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/04/29/bicycle-paint-for-a-columbus-max-fork/
hope it helps someone.
There’s a lot of hard bits in building bikes, choosing a good paintjob is damn hard.

nice blue, you got the RAL n.?

until you clip your pedals. 😉

epicyclo, I have thought of using bmx microdrive,and encasing it,might be doable with removable spider cranks.
would cost a fair bit tho.

on that jones you could put two thin long bags along the strut fork,zipties should do it.
why not a single full framebag plus bladder?

good call on the bike bivi group on fb.

it’s good for a 1st attempt, you should have seen my first brazed joint..

thanks rowlapa1974, hope to put some finished pics up soon.
tho I think this project will be a long one..the good ones always are.
The old framebags were really elegant, I’m hoping to do something as nicely integrated, as well as practical
without them weighing a ton, like full leather ones.
Really happy to be collaborating with Scott, as he’s quite simply one of the best framebag makers.

put skf bearings in mine.

http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/04/27/turn-of-the-century-framebags-swiss-army-sachtleben-allen/

hub brakes ftw.

edit, they said that while I was writing it.