Sks Bluemels 42 mm works a treat on mine. Pretty easy to fit, too!

By the way, i run 35 mm Rapid Robs, plenty of clearance…

Have a CAADX 105… Bloody lovely bike! Very roadbikelike to ride, doesn’t vibrate too much in the rough.

Very cheapest way…

Close up lens kit

The quality is not fantastic, but oftentimes you only use it a few times for coins, watches, etc…

I use one, when I have to take extreme closeups.

Just pick one in the right diameter, and you are sorted!

Dovebiker, sounds like a good idea!

Still, I would really like to know the model number of the hubs, it would be useful to know in case I need spares.

I have tried to contact my local DT Swiss distributor to no avail.

Hmmm… That Nukeproof axle is sold out on Chainreaction.

Does anybody know who else stocks them?

The ERD is not listed on the wheel, and it seems the rim is pretty obscure…

I can’t find the information on the DT Swiss website, the only thing i have is this sticker:

Hey, that Nukeproof axle is actually pretty clever! I might just buy one of those…

The rims are just 19 mm wide, and I really want to try something wider. And when the rims get wider, they usually also become “deeper”

Sure, I could measure the hub, but my calipers were lent to a mate who has yet to return them.

I have a pair of Barr & Stroud bought cheaply off Amazon.

Very nice glass, good value for money.

Comes in many sizes, mine are the Barr & Stroud 10X42 Sahara FMC model, but they are too big to fit in your pocket.

Here is a very instructional bar tape video from Brazil. I believe that the woman is very experienced.

Already suspected the rotor. It is TIGHT!

The clip is properly seated, nothing funny going on…

Well, I have been rocking the bike back and forth all afternoon, and the more I rock, the more I think my front brake could be the culprit. It only knocks when the brake is on, I haven’t been able to reproduce the fault without the brake.

That front brake har always been a little strange, for example, when you hit the brake, it makes a clicking sound. You can sort of “hear” all the individual holes in the Shimano XT Rotor I’m running. Does that make any sense?

The bolts are tight, and the caliper doesn’t move, så I have to assume that the brake pads are moving somehow…

Well, I am trying to stop fork knock by replacing the fork! 🙂

But there are a lot more options using tapered steerer, than straight. This is my bike:

Cannondale Trail 2 (2015) review

Hadn’t thought about the brakes knocking, is there an easy way to determine where the knock is coming from?

I’ll get a picture…

Unior cassette tool and lockring spanner… Best tools I have, bar the mech hanger alignment tool!

The other day I was putting together a bike for one of my friends, put the crankset on the wrong way round.

Couldn’t get the bloody front derailleur to fit, figured that it was the derailleur… Bought another one, still didn’t fit.

Finally dawned on me when I started routing cables and the cable guides were on the other side of the bike.

Bloody hell.

Gentlemen, I stand corrected.

I have been using KMC chains for years, no problems at all, until this crunching noise started.

I took a chance, and slapped on a cheap SRAM chain… The noise is gone, I can even back pedal on the 42 cog without dropping the chain!

Amazing.

Nighttime roadbike ride
Windy beyond belief
Still rode 75

Hmmm… never had problems with KMC chains before, but it is worth a shot if the B screw does not yield a result.

Yeah, I thought as much regarding the chain length…

So, if anyone needs med, I’ll be in the shed, playing with my B-screw.

Right!

B tension tweaking it is! The hanger is straight…

By the way, the chain might be a tad long. Anyone think thats a problem? Its not too long, but I reckon that one less link wouldn’t hurt.

Yes, the chain, crankset, derailleur, and cassette were replaced at the same time.

Top pulley wheel was about 12 mm from the largest cog, moved it in to about 5 mm, it didn’t solve the problem. Maybe the gap should be even smaller?

Hmmm… might have to do a little more digging.

Well, I think i might have an idea of what the problem is.

There is a slight wobble in the freehub, not much when you just grab the hub, but enough to make the cassette move a couple mm at the outer edges. I think Davesport hit the nail on the head when he suggested that the chain was rubbing on the bigger sprocket under load.

Now… better contact Cannondale and ask what kind of freehub I need to fix the problem.

Thanks, all!

All good suggestions!

The thing that is really wierd is, why only on the second largest cog? The freehub is looking good, b screw seems to be alright… I haven’t tried tightening the lockring, so I will be trying that.

From what I can see, the chain does not rub on the adjacent cogs.

The noise does not seem to have any impact on performance, but once you hear it, you can’t unhear it!

Besides, I’m getting pretty tired of having my riding buddies asking me if I can’t adjust a rear derailleur properly! 🙂

Well…

Thanks to you guys, I decided to go out and play on some drops last night.

Promptly wiped out on some slippery boards, blue hip and a derailleur hanger that looks like a banana! 🙂

Nevermind, I will return to normal hue in a couple weeks, and now I have an excuse to give myself a hanger alignment tool for christmas.

When life hands you lemons… 🙂

I mind being overtaken by everyone… But I have gotten used to it, as I am pretty slow and fat! 🙂