More Chrome Grey, although I'm toying with a neon orange re-spray.

greeble – Member
considering you complain that it cost to much to repair a set of forks that wern't looked after. i'd say yes.

I wasn't complaining that it cost too much, I merely said it was a hefty bill, one that I don't particularly want to pay again.! And as far as I was aware I was looking after them. I have regularly lifted out the seals and lubed the foam rings with Float Fluid, as was recommended by Fox. Only recently have Mojo added the video on their website, instructing me to remove the lowers and add fresh oil. In fact, as far as I can see on the Fox website, it doesn't even mention removing the lowers as part of routine maintenance!

What's so special about these crush washers that makes them 75p each?

Has anyone used an alternative? I know it sounds like I'm being tight, I probably am!

Cheers,

How the hell I missed them………….. 😳

The Hub in Glentress had a couple of stem mount Hope Hids for £150 each a few weeks back. I was tempted myself as I'm still running Lumi halogens!

You won't recognise it if you haven't been up there in the last 9 months or so!

I really enjoyed helping out yesterday and I'll definitely be going to get stuck in again. (not that those photos show much work going on!) 😉

Not from the same ride, but here's a link to a video of mine, it's the twisty volunteer built stuff up Gisburn at night.

Gisburn @ night

I've got these tyres and went from 2.4 MKs which were very poor. The RQs are far superior.

Out of interest, how do you lot run the rear tyre, the same direction as the front or opposite? I've got mine opposite but I'm not convinced this is the best way……any thoughts?

I had the same issue. I got hold of an additional thinner BB spacer (1mm I think it was) and that cured it.

not a place, but a street

ribble cycles

try here/\

ooops, just noticed – no stock!

Went up last night, it's very cut up in places particular the tree covered areas that haven't been surfaced with rock. In fact it's probably up to 6 inches deep in gloopy mud in places. Even the old bits that have been there years are now in a poor state due to the added volume of riders.

It was still bloody good fun though, first time I'd ridden the new sections in the dark!

I've got an 08 Orange 5 SE with 08 Talas 9mm qr and an 09 Marin Rocky Ridge with 09 Float R QR15. I do my 9mm Hope qr as tight as I possibly can on the Orange and can't say I've noticed any difference in stiffness. (Both forks have hatched braces). I do ride them both pretty damn hard too.

I might be being dumb here, but surely the wheel will still flex side to side even if the bloomin' hub was welded on? Or am I missing the point?

I'm interested in a 2 or maybe even a 4 if they're really cheap, email sent!

Slightly off topic, but I went Ghetto last night and was struggling to inflate the tyres, that was until I made this…

Lovely spec, but just how tall are you?

I ran some Spesh 2.3s on my 819s, no rim strip, just added a glug of Stan's.

I ran them for a few months before fitting some proper UST tyres for the added security of thicker side walls.

Don't recall them burping though!

I'm the sales manager at a car dealership so should be able to help here. The new car has to be registered exactly the same as the scrap car, exactly the same letter for letter. If you and your dad have the same name and this appears on the v5 (log book) then you should be able to pretend the scrap car is your dad's. There's no point in you buying the car and then sending the v5 to the dvla to change it for the same name and address (as stated earlier). You're only stumbling block will be if you filled the date of birth box in on the v5 for your scrapper when you bought it. The dealer will have to inform the dvla of the new car owner's dob. If they don't match it could cause issues. Having said that, it would be the dealer who would loose out because they wouldn't get their money from the govt. The dealers have to keep the paperwork for 10 years for audit purposes but the money is paid first and then taken back if issues arise later.

So in short, if you and your dad share first and last names, option 2

I broke mine into 3 pieces, pretty much in the middle, (the impact was on the back of my shoulder).
I was back cycling on the road in 3 weeks (1 handed), mountain biking was about 6 or 7 weeks, but it was about 10 weeks before I was fully mobile again!

I took calcium supplements (twice the recommended amount) and developed a massive lump of fresh bone around the break, it's still there now, 3 years later, but no where near as big as it was!

I laughed all the way through, whilst the wife sat there with a face liked I'd just run over the cat!

+1 for Vic's pants being double funny!

I've got one of these
clicky1

or these look good value
clicky2

I've got an 08 5SE with the tighter head angle and TALAS RLCs, I use the talas quite often but never the lock out. I have the low speed compression damping set just right for me, that's probably why I don't feel the need to use the lock out.
To be honest, I hardly ever use the pro-pedal on the rear either, the bike climbs better with the forks wound down to 120mm and the rear shock still open.
I imagine this would be even more the case on the later models with slacker angles.

I've had a HOPE Ceramic on my Orange5 for 14 months, never needed any maintenance and still runs as sweet as new. (RaceFace Deus Cranks)

We're you the one that binned it on the first tabletop, and ripped your right knee open? If so, it was my phone that was used to call the ranger.

Hope you're OK, what was the diagnosis, just surface wounds I hope!

(If you like, I can tell everyone you where riding like a god…)

I have some 2.2 UST Rubber Queens. I seem to recall reading that newer Contis are sized more accurately, I also have some Mountain King 2.4 UST and these are no bigger than the 2.2 RQs.

I know it doesn’t answer your questions, but I thought you might like to know!

how would they work with some Sealskinz? No more wet shoes…mmmmmm!

Nope, but you could run them really soft with plenty of sag! If they’re that cheap! I know it’s not ideal and may not be too good for your frame, but….

Looks fairly conclusive then! I’ll be sticking with the originals!!

I’m 5’11” and have an 18″ 5SE. Anything smaller would have been too small. Even now I sometimes think the top tube is a bit short. If I were you, I’d go for a 20″ and maybe change to a shorter stem if it feels too long!

Of course, it does depend how much of your 6’1″ is body and how much is leg! As has been said before, try and find one to at least sit on!

this is called ‘centring’ and does not ensure correct chainline it itself unless the BB is the correct width.

Maybe not, but if the cranks are off centre by more than 5mm then I’d expect the spacers to be not in their optimal positions.

Measure the from outer edge of each crank, to the centre of the frame. These 2 measurements should be as close to equal as possible with the available spacers. Then adjust your front mech to accommodate the chainrings.

Pre 2007 headset diagram, is this old enough?
pre2007

You can change the seals at home really easily. If you’re bushings aren’t worn then that’s all they need. I’ve got a pair of 2003 Vanillas and I’ve only ever stripped, cleaned and re-lubed them (never replaced anything other than oil). They’ve now been relegated to my second bike but still get a fair amount of abuse and have cost me nowt other than a litre of fork oil!

Cheers BearBack. That’s a lot of useful info you’ve given me there.

I did wonder about the 2.5 and 3.5mm elastomers as I couldn’t find the 3.5mm listed as a spare part on RaceFace or Silver fish. Could I add an extra 1mm spacer or would this be too rigid and end up causing too much friction/side loading on the bearings?

Via another forum, I’ve just located a 0.5mm bb cup spacer so will try that and hopefully solve the problem.

Thanks again.

Right, I’ve unwound the non driveside bb cup about one turn, this has removed the slack in the cranks, but obviously the bb cup is not butted up against the bb shell. Does that matter?

err, yeah I have, see above!

I’ve stuck a bit of copter tape on the swing arms to stop chain rub and velcro under the swingarm to stop chain damage, other than that, you should be fine. The paint is as hard as nails. You might get a bit of cable rub, but after the first ride, you’ll know where to stick any patches.

you can see my protection here…..

I have a 305 and use it with Memory Map for navigating.

It’s easy to use and just points you to the next way point and lets you know when you’re approaching a turning point.

It picks up a GPS signal quicker than my Tom Tom and the battery life is at least 7 hours, I’ve never used it for longer though without recharging it, which only takes a few hours through the PC or supplied 240v charger, you can also charge through a car’s 12v socket if you have the right lead.

You can choose what data to display on the two ‘cycle computer’ screens and there’s loads to choose from.

It seems very robust, I’ve had mine for 2 years and it’s been very wet a lot of times and often gets washed with my bike. (I did protect the screen with clear vinyl though). The mounting bracket did break, but as you get two in the box, this wasn’t an issue and to be honest I think I was partially to blame.

However, It can only hold 500 way points and each route can only be 100 points long, which means longer rides have to be broken down into sections, or simplified on the PC.

The altitude reading is via Barometric pressure sensor rather than GPS but seems accurate to within 10m or so, you can do circular rides that show more up than down or vice versa though. But download your ride when you’ve finished, Memory Map never lies!

They occasionally come up at PC World and Halfords for £50 or less, if you can get one at this price you’ll not be disapointed.

Thanks for the tips, I’ve stripped it a few times and re-greased, next time I’ll use copper paste!
I’ll try and get hold of a 3.5mm elastomer too!

+1 for FS1 although brake cleaner is great for getting in nooks and crannies, but doesn’t last very long!