I have found that my Fox F100s dive a lot more than my REBAs. My vote would be dual air rock shox with floodgate…but beware they will get less kudos in the carpark than Fox.

I helped someone load one into a corsa. It fitted. But they do tend to contain a lot of water that only reveals itself when they are lay down.

lol .. you shouldn't have to wind it every two hours. 😕

Sounds like whoever serviced it wasnt very careful to check it was fine before they gave it back. They should have kept an eye on it for a couple of days after the "service" to make sure it was working correctly.

My SO is 5ft2 and found the trek 14" to be too big.

The Specialized Myka at 15" comes out with a lower stand over than the 14" trek… odd sizing.

Definitely try before you buy, the sizing seems very inconsistent.

I have a forerunner 405 which is OK but would not really recommend it for loads of bike use. If you don't get the handlebar mount and wear it on your left wrist it will press the buttons and switch teh timer/GPS off and on when you don't want it to. The battery life is OKish but it tends to die without too much notice if not fully charged. The Ipod bezel is a gimmick which when confronted with moisture goes nuts…so it needs to be locked most of the time. The Forerunner is great for running (if you can get a satellite without hanging about for ages) but I could not recommend it for more than occasional biking. As a general everyday watch you could get away with it.

I have both and find the REBA more reliable and tuneable. I would sell the FOX while it's lovely and new and use the REBA.

You can even increase the travel on the REBA to 115mm so it's more versatile IMO.

I see that CRC are doing a carbon effect plastic bag with cleats already installed.

I increasingly find I make use of mine…..interestingly I am also getting older.

A doctor once told me you should only ever buy booze and food from places that have "saver" or "express" in the name.

Avoid SMEG. They look nice but are not very good. Regardless of ours costing in the region of £600 it has been pretty flakey.

Giant TCX. My MTB gets very little use since I bought it.

bump

I think it depends on the set up and condition of the fork. I used to get 100mm, then after they were serviced I only got around 90mm…. go figure.

Hope have split race

The Manchester Wheelers race at Boggart Hole clough was a good course with the exception of the evil tarmac climb which was sickening and had me wishing for a twiddlier gear each time. I was rubbish but it was still enjoyable.

If my back is OK I will be doing the Manchester Wheelers race on Sunday…. First cross race in about 14 years ! 😯

I would go for something cheap with underarm zips if I was in the market for a rain jacket. Our sport is a dirty one which means that things need washing lots, so fancy fabrics tend to suffer a bit.

I wear a NF soft shell most of the time which is windproof and shower proof, I sweat so much on the bike that I get wet regardless of the weather so I don't bother with fancy jackets.

"Also, can you get to borrow trial frames from Optilabs?"

I believe so. Give em a call.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/best-brakes-for-a-cx-bike

If it's Sciatica I would recommend physio, regular stretching and exercises to improve core body strength. The physio would give all the details.

It can take a long time to go away. 😥

I had the bearing on a bonty hub replaced as warranty…no quibbles.

if they are paying you to go then do it, otherwise…no.

It sets an expectation on how things might work in future if this type of thing is expected..

So I tried to take a picture of the mud clearance but it was a bit of a shambles. According to my tape measure the chainstays give 5mm clearance each side of a 35mm small block 8, so the chainstays are 45mm wide in the area where the tyre would be. Hope that helps.

I might "race" at Boggart hole clough but that tarmac climb is a bit daunting with no granny gears to rely on. 😀

ta

mud clearance looks Ok but they come with small block 8s which are not a very rugged tyre anyway. I have ridden it in some pretty awful conditions and it's been ok. I will try and take a piccy tonight if I get chance.

yeah, I got it from Eddie's, it's a great shop. It looks like a "Christmas bike" shop from the outside but they know their stuff.

I have no problems shouldering on the size small frame, it feels fine. I am very impressed with it so far and intend to get out and race at some point in the autumn if my fitness allows it.

traildog – I got a small TCX which feels similar(ish) to a medium OCR road bike.

The bottom bracket height and tyres make the TT higher, so at 5'8" with a 29" inside leg I am happy with a small, length wise it feels good too. You get plenty of spacers under the stem so you can tinker with the height at the front quite a lot. It's a compact frame so you get quite a bit of seat post visible, but not silly amounts.

I asked my LBS in Urmston to order one in for me to look at, they also matched the price that I had seen online of £600. Can't fault it for the price really.

Giant TCX2, I picked up a 2009 for £600

ackie, removing the spacer on rebas is quite an easy job. I certainly wouldn't spend 60 notes on it. If you have the tools then all you need is some fork oil.

Also have a look here –

http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Tuning_a_2007_RS_Reba_Team

plus, the instructions on the Rockshox website are quite thorough. There are also instructions on MTBR.com if you search the forum.

I had something similar many years ago and it made no difference, however, my breathing improved by itself a few years later when I moved house… so it was obviously some sort of allergy anyway. The recovery from the surgery was not a lot of fun.

It was a silly storyline really, but enjoyable none the less.

hopi will get a bit of wax out of your ears…but if they are 'bunged up' then you need to get them sorted at the doctor's surgery.

I just did the ones around the rocker on my 07 topfuel 8. They cost hardly anything from my LBS. They are just plastic top hat ones that you can press in by hand, no special tools needed.
I changed them as the rear end had movement that you could actually feel most when it was locked out at the shock, plus the bolts on the rocker would not stay tight.
It was a five minute job to install them, but took longer to clean the rocker and bolts properly, plus I put locktite on the bolts to keep everything in place. If you are not sure if the main pivot bearing needs replacing I would take off the rocker and move the back end of the bike by hand to see if it feels notchy, mine was fine.

Assuming bike 2 is not on the smallest chainring at the front I would say your chain is too long. If it is on the smallest chain ring then you are using extreme gears which is not really ever going to work so well.

For the Judy TT the cost of repair will always outweigh the value of the fork, which is sad but true. Buy a new cheap RS fork which will probably out perform the TT.

I struggle to get the pads out of Juicy's even without a wheel in the frame, so I would be 'very surprised' if they fell out while riding.

cheers for responses, I will have a tinker with the set up and look for some koolstops.

iainc – can you come to a full stop at speed on the hoods if you need to?

I will try some koolstops. I think the existing compound is a bit hard

Sometimes I struggle to get on the drops if the terrain drops away quickly so end up trying to brake on the hoods which may be my main problem.

Do you mean the spring that keeps the pads apart or the clip that fits in the brake at the back?

If its the clip then I don't have them on any of my bikes that run Juicy's. They made pad replacement an even bigger PITA.

If it's the spring that separates the pads then you aren't gonna be riding tonight.

a whole generation of people who've never ridden a hardtail can't climb standing up…..lol

It used to be cheaper to buy a new crankset from the likes of CRC…but the prices of cranks are ridiculous too nowadays