[smug mode] I really don’t get these anti-Stans threads at all. 😕
I’ve got Crest, Flow & Flow EX, all with yellow tape and stans jizz. All running perfectly tubeless and never needed to deploy a tyre lever or compressor.
Maxxis dual plys, Maxxis LUST, Maxxis Single ply, Bonty Mud-X, Spesh Purgatory, Spesh Storm, … all been perfect [/smug mode]

Top tip so far – rub neat fairy liquid round the tyre bead and the rim. Aids with both fitting and importantly with getting the initial seal when using a track-pump.

Danny, I’d agree with the suggestions of Harter Fell rather than down Gatesgarth to Haweswater.

Alternatively…
Rode Lowey’s route in reverse earlier this Summer:
Dubbs to top of Garburn; Yoke; Ill Bell; Froswick; Thornthwaite Beacon; Mardale Ill Bell; Nan Bield, then did the North side of NB to Smallwater (techy, more dabs than the Ribble estuary), then carried back up to do the other side back into Kentmere.

I can probably make Rivi on Monday too.

Just need to see how my right big toe feels over the weekend (pretty sure I’ve broken it on last night’s Hebden step fest)
I guess that’s a “tentative” from me then.

My old F2 Strato was out a couple of times this Summer.
It’s my daughter that keeps insisting on giving it another try. She’s getting there. 😀
(There is clearly still hope for the younger generation)

I think the XR-Mud / Mud-X is a better rear tyre than front tyre.

I agree.
My XC hardtail has a Mud-x on the back and a 42a Minion on the front. Same combo all through last Winter and this Summer too.

On Blackcircles you can get the Auto Express ‘Tyre of the year’ fully fitted for about £75 each, think its a Goodyear / Dunlop efficient grip.

… and if you go to quikfit (or any of the nationals) and tell them that then they’ll probably pricematch it.
That’s what I did. Had a pair of them on the front for about 3 months now and they seem pretty good so far.

[edit] mundaneo oil-burner doing about 20k per year [/edit]

Mud-X rear / ST minion front for me on the XC slopbike. Out last night and Summer already feels like a distant memory.

We lined ours as otherwise you need to use a clay liner adapter and I’ve been told by two independent sources that it generally doesn’t end well (basically your can get tar running down into your fireplace.

That was what one of my freinds found when he had a stove installed in his new extension. Brand-new chimney and hearth. He immediately had problems with tarry residues dripping back into the stove and making a right mess.
He had the contractors back and got it lined.
The problem disappeared.

The rockhopper that got me re-started in this game in about 2007 is now 100% trigger’s broom.
As of early this year, every single component had been upgraded/replaced at some point or other in the intervening period.

Then I broke the frame 🙁
Thank the lord for Specialized warranty dept 🙂

Last I was up there, it was like a jungle on the flags at the top, so I’ll be leaving that trail a few weeks yet for the vegetation to die-back a bit.

We’ve been pricing up converting from gas fire to an logburning stove in the livingroom.
Ours would involve decomissioning the gas fire, cutting out a propper fireplace (currently it’s a raised plinth), lay hearth, beam over, supply & instal fire, plaster. For that we’re looking at about £2k of which the stove itself is about £1k (ESSE, made in Barlick, just around the corner from Hope)
Would be about another £500 if we need to put a liner in too.

Thanks for the warning.
I trust you removed the offending nailed plank.
Woud be a good idea to let the local cops know too.

Done Lowey’s route last November but from Langdale end. It’s a good ‘un.

Are you absolutely sure you’re from Yorkshire? 😆

I’d usually be asking for a better deal on any purchase, personally.
It might not be “discount” per se, but there’s often a better deal to be had.
They might not be willing to do anything further on the price but you might get other stuff or services thrown-in or reduced.

Negotiation is a real life skill that appears to be on the decline.
Best done face to face rather than over the phone.
Keep it all nice and personal and friendly so that they feel they’ve got a “relationship” with you and are willing to invest something in that.

S4R, Grum, DBW…. oy! wait for me, I wanna go too. 😀

Yep, their sales counter is just around the corner from me, so I always visit rather than order online.
Always good service and never any issues returning goods even if it’s simply because you don’t like it once you got it home.

Just to rule out a longshot…

I have seen someone refer to the standard rimtape that comes with Hope Hoops as “yellow tape” and they were getting a bit frustrated with the way the setup kept deflating over the space of a day or so when tried tubeless with stans fluid.

I trust you have removed the stock rimtape (it’s a greeny-yellowy colour, hence his confusion), and replaced it with a Stans 25mm tape.

Apologies if I’m stating the obvious, just worth ruling it out.

We much prefer Austria or Italy for Family ski trips.
My recomendation would be Kronplatz[/url]. We must have been back there about 8 or 9 times now since the kids were little.
Always well managed snow. Massive lift capacity (all very modern and seldom any queueing). Good food & drink. Good child freindly ski schools and facilities too.

Ischgl would probably be a good all round choice too but I have no experience of the ski schools there.

I can thoroughly recommend Garda.
Outdoorsy stuff is all at the North end of the lake. Torbole is a good base.
http://bikemagic.com/mountain-bike-trails/mtb-travel-guide-lake-garda-italy.html

Worth a visit if you’re in the area.

If you’re coming up this way and want to make a weekend of it, why not do a day around Hebden Bridge and a half day at Gisburn?

no, it’s the small screw on the reservoir body, right next to the pivot around which the lever operates.

[edit] It’s actually labelled as “free stroke” next to the screw [/edit]

I’ve had this recently.
Whilst I’d bled the first 5 of the 6 M785s I have without any issue, the 6th one refused to bleed. 😕

The solution is to slacken-off the bite point adjuster.
When it’s screwed in fully, it appears to push the piston far enough forward to isolate the master cylinder from its reservoir and this prevents bleeding in either direction.
A bit of a design flaw if you ask me, but only a minor inconvenience once you know about it.

He was warned you know, but still he did it. 🙄
So much good stuff in the area and none of it on the NFT

Update.
Resolved.
Yes the free stroke adjuster was the key to this.
For some reason, if it’s too far in, the master cylinder appears to be isolated from its reservoir, hence being unable to reverse bleed.
Wound it out and could then bleed as normal. Strange design quirk if you ask me 😕

I used my Halfords C2W vouchers at Leisure Lakes a couple of years ago.
You won’t get any reductions from RRP though, as Halfords take a percentage from the retailer.

Don’t get hung up on the “outdoor activity” tag.
…
Only difference is that you may have to deal with the environmental complications for a period of time until help arrives.

Many years ago I trained people in both “normal” and “outdoor” first aid. I would disagree with your suggestion…

Poly, I don’t disagree with anything you’ve said. Perhaps I was being a little too simplistic in the way I summarised earlier.
The points you raised are what I was loosely referring to as the “environmental complications”.
We’re on the same page.

Minions, Larsen TT or HR for me. Dual ply in 60A maxpro on the rear. Any-plys-you-like in 42A supertacky on the front.

1. Check for Danger
2. Pause the Garmin
3. Check for response to stimuli
4. Check that the bike is OK
5. Check airway…
…etc…
10. Check for bike bling donor card. In absence of one, you’re entitled to take the best bits from their bike.

Don’t get hung up on the “outdoor activity” tag.
Same body. Similar mechanisms of injury. Same effects. Same treatments.
Only difference is that you may have to deal with the environmental complications for a period of time until help arrives.

Another recommendation for Ed from me.

What you pay for in a good coach is his ability to capture and articulate what you are actually doing, as opposed to what you think you’re doing, and to tailor the most appropriate things to do to correct it.

Try a Maxxis and you’ll be fine. UST & dual ply both work really well but I’ve also run single ply tubeless without any issues on the front of an XC bike.
Bontrager & Specialized have also been good for me.

I’ve not used the 355 but I do have Crest, Flow & Flow EX, all running tubeless with just the yellow tape.

[Quote]how (if at all) waterproof are the batteries with these things then?[/Quote][Quote]Basically They’re not.[/Quote]

Agreed.
I take the battery out of its pouch, encase it in a wrap of self-amalgamating tape and then stuff it back in the pouch. Appears to work pretty well.
Also worth reinforcing all the flex protection points at the battery and connector etc with the same stuff, as breakage/shorting here appears to be the most common failure mode of these cheap lights.

Very timely.
Last night was the first ride for a while where lights were pretty much necessary.

We’ve only had a brief shower yesterday up here Moli.
Still pretty much bone dry 😀

Welcome back big fella

When my son was learning to drive, I was able to take out a second supplementary policy with a second insurer that insured only HIS USE OF MY CAR whilst a learner.

I know it’s not the same as the scenario the OP described but it demonstrates that you can have two policies covering one car. The content of the two policies must not overlap though.
i.e. my policy covered me to drive and the car itself when no-one driving, fully comp. It did not include him driving my car. His policy covered him & my car fully comp only whilst he was driving.

The same model might be available elsewhere.

an as’t gonna be th’ed ot th’armed forces.

Very strange…

I’m a big tubeless fan but that’s Stans rather than Mavic UST.

Aren’t XM819 quite narrow and have relatively tall rim walls? That, together with small volume tyres might both be contributory factors. (2.1″ Minion must be miniscule)
Also, I’d agree with Stevomcd, LUST are paper-thin. I’d always go with dual ply on the rear for rocky stuff.

I wouldn’t expect there to be any way to reduce travel. Ultimately, it’s going to be governed by the length of the Ti coil spring that’s in there.

Also, as they ^^^ said, ‘zocchi coil forks sit low it their travel anyway, so you probably won’t notice it when sagged. Use less coil pre-load and you’ll achieve the desired effect.

No, I’ve not touched the free-stroke adjuster.

Can’t get fluid to run from reservoir into master cylinder. Will free-stroke adjuster effect this?