Warncliffe or Hebden Bridge

I’d regard the northern descent of Nan Bield to be superior, it’s really techy.

I’d agree. The only negative is that, once you’ve done it Northerly, the only option that makes any kind of sense as a route is to turn around and hike-a-bike back up everything you’ve just descended and then do the South side.

I’m sure there’s 12 in there Munrobiker – ‘cos it looks like you’ve got both sides of Nan Bield ;)

To the list so far I’d also add:
Whiteless Pike (to Buttermere),
Scope End,
Grains Gill (to Stockley Bridge),
Rossett Gill

All depends where and how you ride.

I would have chosen Magic Mary as a year round tyre, but not that cheapo wired version!
I’d be wanting vertstar/snakeskin front and trailstar/supergravity rear.

I never got on with Smorgs though. Lasted less than one ride tubeless on the back of the hardtail. Not enough volume and not tough enough. Pinched straight through the sidewall on the first descent. Only added this to reinforce the first point… It all depends where/how you ride.

Basically, wot Northwind said about Golfie^^^.
Typical day is maybe 5 or 6 big climbs up to the old reservoir or fewer if you’re going further afield for No Social or Feed The Pony as they involve long push-up climbs.
Favorite Golfie trails for me so far are; No Social, Wolf of Wall St, Nae Spleens, Boner.
Haven’t done Waterworld yet but will next time.

The LED manufactures have moved forward a bit in the last 6 months or so. You can now get 4000 lumens from a single LED
I’ll be using 1 for my helmet and 2 on my bars

On that basis, yes, I’d be interested in these.

Solarstorm X2 has been good to me for about 3 years now. Makes a good head-mounted lamp.
Their XT40 has been in service on the bars for a couple of years but doesn’t seam much more powerful than the x2, so I’m a bit underwhelmed with that.

Generally, up until a year or so ago, the outputs were rising rapidly year-on-year, so buying an expensive light that was made to last but would be outgunned within a year made little sense.
Performance seams to have plateaued a bit now, so I’d consider spending a bit more today.

Think I’ll be buying a Hope R8 when the cycle2work thing comes around again. The light output and spread from that is way better than the XT40, so yes I’d buy a UK light now, though I haven’t previously.

yep, EC card, it’s a German thing. More widely accepted there than credit cards.
I think some UK debit cards carry the EC symbol and would be accepted.

I really wouldn’t go in with “my max is…”
I’d resist putting down any marker or opening value until you’ve got some movement out of them. I skilled salesman will try hard to get you to place that marker early. Try to resist. It’s a long slow game.

Take ownership of any offer to move that they give. Thank them, each time and make a big deal of it… but tell them it’s not quite good enough etc.
Ask them what they can do to make the deal better. eg I’d want at least another £750 off their otherwise best cash price if I was taking their finance on that amount (which I’d then cancel afterwards).
Built rapport, let them think they have created some value in the relationship that they’ve worked hard to build… then subtly start to threaten that investment they’ve made if they don’t go the extra mile to your target.

Don’t concede any movement at all unless you get another higher value concession in return. Make every little move you make conditional on something big from them. Conversely, try to avoid accepting any linking/trading of concessions offered by them (they’re trying to close down your options).
At the very end, close with a closed question eg “if you do…. then I’d be willing to …. WILL YOU DO THAT FOR ME?” (closed question and making it very pointed, personal and hard to wriggle from)

Walk away if you don’t get what you want.

[edit] Expect him to go away to “talk to his manager” at least 3 times, It’s all BS. You aren’t getting anywhere until his manager comes to you personally and with a better offer. [/edit]

Ha, OK, I might have just revealed my total ignorance of wendyball :oops:

That’s one hell of a long drive Ton.
I do Garda fairly often and it’s just about doable in one go but I would want to be stopping overnight if I was driving any further than that.
Recommend going via Germany and Fern Pass to Austria; then Brenner to Italy. If going that way, Innsbruck is a reasonable stopover.

the odd WTF moment with some electrics, but nothing terminal

That would be the problem I guess :lol:

Think you can also get short term/single trip excess insurance too.
Too late now for you but worth considering next time.
Added benefit is that you only need ever take out the most basic insurance that the hire car company offer, as your excess policy covers everything else you’d ever need to claim.

andyl,
That’s about the best summary of the relative merits of the various options that I’ve read so far.

lapdog – Member
The best flat pedals are Syntace Titan 9s. No compromise pedal that are very light, strong, durable and costly! I love mine.

Agreed 100%. They are fantastic.
Expensive but very robust, very very grippy, massive platform (available in 3 sizes), really thin and very easy to maintain. Got them on two bikes.

Vaults feel nearly as good whilst they’re still new but don’t last 5 minutes IME, pins ripped out in no time and bushing shot very quickly. Axle bent too but I can’t really complain too much about that as it caught a fairly immovable rock at some speed.

The original grubscrew pin Superstar/Exotic generic Nano have also been very durable. Best budget buy.

Not done DS in the direction Kinlochleven to Glencoe, but have done it a couple of times in the reverse. I’ve always done as you describe and followed the conduit to dam, crossing the dam wall and descending Ciaran Path.
CP is worth doing but doesn’t flow particularly well. A bit stop-and- start.
The descents off the Mamore Lodge side (eg Grey Mares) are worth doing if you’ve got time.

[list][*]Watches soaps.[/*]
[*]Not rinsing the soap suds of anything that’s been washed up.
[*]Leaving cupboards/drawers open.[/*]
[*]Leaving the fridge door open until the item taken from it has been replaced after use (eg milk).[/*]
[*]Never empties the bin.[/*]
[*]Doesn’t stack the dishwasher with any system, I can get twice as much in.[/*]
[*]Puts plastic and paper in a bag on the utility room top rather than take them to the recycling bins.[/*]
[*]Expects the hoover to work efficiently when the bag is nearly full.[/*]
[*]Hoovers around any large items of furniture.[/*]
[*]Hangs toilet roll unwinding closest to wall.[/*]
[*]Brakes before changing lanes when overtaking.[/*]
[*]Revs too hard in low gears.[/*]
[*]Believes the dog when it looks at her as if to say “I haven’t been fed”[/*][/list]

End of May, as in Bank Holiday weekend… Lakes will me heaving with redsocks, so go for somewhere off the beaten track.
Having said that, 4 passes (tour of Gable) shouldn’t be too busy on a Friday, I’d suggest that for your MTB day.

I use 5w-30 synthetic fork oil from Halfrauds in the lowers (bought this early on when you couldn’t get the 0-30 RS official stuff) and 90 wt Castrol gear oil on the foam rings (It’s been suggested that Fox fluid is basically 80wt gear oil, but that might just be a myth).
Two years on this regime so far and not experienced any problems yet.

Oh, yes please! I was gutted when I first heard about this, only to find that it was no longer running.
Got to be done.

Maxxis Minion front and rear (dual ply on the back if you’re a clumsy as me.
One-one chunkymonkey good on the front.
Definitely go tubeless if you suffer pinchflats regularly.

I thought consensus now was a full cassette from Sunrace/Praxis etc

If starting from scratch, I’d go with that option too.

And what about chain drop, and back pedaling issues?

Never experienced any right up to the point where it wore out.
Did file down the shifting ramps as a precaution before fitting it but that might not have been necessary.
Replaced it with a works components 40t which appears very good quality but obviously a bit smaller.

also saw those bad reviews of the E13 but was offered one cheap so tried it and found it to work fine.
No sign of any flexing, which seemed to be the main concern.

and Hope only do a 40t

if 40 is low enough, then consider the works-components-40t-shimano-cassette-range-extender

Missing oil changes is not a good idea. Not much else that would bother me though unless I was simply wanting to maximise resale value.

I have a couple of long sleeved older 250g? tops. They shrank a bit but have been really hard-wearing.
I also have a couple of slightly newer 200g ones. They didn’t shrink but are full of holes as they snag and tear at the slightest touch of barbed wire or brambles.

I’ve got two bikes with XT and Saint bar mounted shifters (1×10) and XT M785 brakes.
I’ve tried many combinations of both right and left handed reverb remotes and the best combination for me is right hand remote, mounted on the right (over the bar), between grip and brake. [edit] like mintimperial’s pic but on the opposite side [/edit]
Shifter is mounted furthest inboard.
Top-Tip = you can swap the right and left hand shifter mounting brackets over if you have both shifters, so the mount sits inboard of the brake but pushes the actual shifter body further outboard, below the brake.

I’ve just fitted and shortened a set with braided hoses.
The insert and olive (split) are both re-usable.
The only difficult bit was getting the exposed metal braiding through the olive after stripping back the outer sheath.

I lost a bit of fluid on one end so needed to bleed it but the other brake was rock solid before bleeding (which I did anyway just to be sure)

Give the following a good coat of close scrutiny:
1. The business case
2. The business requirements & compliancy matrix/criteria (functional and non-functional requirements)
3. Risk register
4. Who’s accepting it into steady state, against what test scenarios/criteria? What’s their view of project?

Look at ITIL Service Design & Service Transition stuff in parallel with your PRINCE2 notes.

Time/cost/quality, once you’ve base-lined, then time and cost will by definition be fixed (ie you’ll end up de-scoping)

I’ve used pierreetvacances.com in the past
Apartment block in AdH – £500 for 4 people Mon to Sun here:
http://www.pierreetvacances.com/gb-en/fp_AHL_self-catering-alpe-huez-bergers

The problem I have with 90% of flat pedals is that the bearings and bushings last about 2 weeks of Scottish riding.

For me, Nanos/Exotic are the only cheap pedal that has withstood the most winter slop riding, without much maintenance and without falling apart.

I do love the feel of Vaults when new but they don’t seem as durable as the Nanos. (I’ve ripped out too many of the pins and bent one of the axles on a rock impact. The bushing went sloppy pretty quickly in the other side too).

For ultimate durability, probably due to the ability to purge with grease, the Syntace No9 Titan is the best I’ve used.
Silly money though – wouldn’t have ever considered buying if they hadn’t come with the bike.

I’m pretty sure it’s not just incorrect orientation of the mount.
Inverting the mount would skew the angle of the pad in the caliper relative to the contact point/rotor travel.
Which leaves you with the only options being:
1. Incorrect mount (most likely)
2. IS mount on fork itself incorrectly positioned during manufacture (less likely)

No, never had grumpy walker trouble up there.
Seldom get any grumpy gits in the mountains-proper.
Ironically, only ever seem to get flack on the bridleways (eg Ullswater Lakeside), so we avoid bridleways as a rule ;)

From Troutbeck side, I’d recommend going up past Dubbs res to the top of Garburn and then going clockwise over Yoke; Ill Bell; Froswick; Nan Bield

is “myibidder” out of favor these days?
Been using it for years and always been happy. Is there any reason I should re-consider?

just enough to stop the shifter smacking the top tube.

we don’t do too many miles ourselves

hmmm?
A diesel may not be the most appropriate solution for you then.

You will feel less of a noticeable jump in ratios if you use the 16t.
Not a major issue either way.

If you’re doing a Skiddaw loop, it’d be rude not to go to the top first, then ride down the scree slope and do Ullock Pike ridge, before going clockwise Whitewater Dash to Skiddaw House to Lonscale Fell