If you want to extend it and you appreciate a bit of tech, I’d recommend adding Red Pike, like this: https://www.strava.com/activities/592071030

You could, as you say, add Catbells but if the weather’s good, and on a Saturday, that’ll be like playing skittles with tourists.
A better option might be to sack off Rigg Beck and climb to Causey Pike.

I’ve got a supergravity Mary on the back of the lighter “all dayer” bike at the moment. It’s a bit draggy but not massively so. Not much different to the supergravity HD that’s on the bigger bike.

Best done from Braithwaite IMHO.
Up Coledale Beck; Whiteless; Buttermere; Up Sail Beck; Rigg Beck

double post

I’ve got the SQlabs carbon railed one on my 301. I like it.
A bit of carbon grip paste where the clamp sits on the rails is a good idea, so you don’t have to go silly tight.
You won’t crush it though.

My last five full-day rides fall consistently in the range 17 to 22 miles distance.
Ascent in feet / distance in miles:
5000 / 18 = St Sunday & Helvellyn
5000 / 17 = 4 Passes
7000 / 22 = Helvellyn twice
6000 / 21 = Whiteless Pike & Red Pike
4000 / 21 = Rossett, Grains Gill, Stake Pass (inc loads of flat stuff on road bringing the average down)
so, about 275 feet per mile = hilly

How much do you want for the SRAM XD driver freehub?

Yes, the x-sync SRAM rings are what you’re after.
Those steel ones are a bargain too. Cheaper than any of the alloy ones I’ve seen and should resist both wear and impacts much better too.

In answer to some of the earlier questions:
No, oval 30t will not fit on 104BCD, 32t oval is the smallest compatible with 104BCD
30t round is the smallest non-oval that will fit on 104BCD.

Jerome,
I’ve just snapped my Ti456 frame :( and whatever I replace it with is unlikely to be 26″, so I’ll probably end up selling the fork I had on there.
It’s a 140mm Marzocchi 44RC3Ti, Titanium coil. Perfect match for the 456Ti IMHO. An absolutely bombproof fork.

email in profile. I can take some pics tonight if it sounds like what you’re after.

If you like the techy bits, do Skiddaw down the scree slope to Ullock Pike and then ride the Ullock ridge. Very cheeky, so time it accordingly if it’s a busy day.

I was lucky enough to ride one of the prototype procores (two separate valves) on a bike in Finale in Sept 2014. I was the only one in our group to not pinchflat or burp a tyre all week. Worked really well. The rest were all on std tubeless or tubes.
Have bought some from BD.de now they’re getting a bit more reasonable and widely in-stock. Fitting later this week. Don’t think I’ll drop the rear from Supergravity to Snakeskin just yet though.
For any big-ish fella, I think they’re the only realistic solution if you’re after the ability to batter through rocks at speed whilst retaining low pressures for grip.

Overfilled, did you use bleeding blocks, wrong fluid?

Regarding my own occurrences…
No, Yes, No.

[edit] I’m with Scienceofficer on this, I’m absolutely convinced it’s seal degradation in the lever [/edit]

I just replace the offending component.

That was my first approach. A Shimano lever is not a silly price to just treat as a consumable item, much like a set of pads or a rotor.
… BUT …
Then eventually it happened on a particularly narrow set of steps in Hebden Bridge. Rear brake pulled to the bar and I had to try and control on front alone. Failed and went OTB.
Yes, cost wise, another XT lever is the sensible option.

well goby, when do we get the head-to-head shoot-out ride report?

Leaning towards a P7 at the moment.
Just waiting to see what on-one/Van Nic say about options to replace the broken 456 EVO Ti that I’ve sent back to them

very similar.
Not “new”, but at about 2 years old approx.
Bite point becomes inconsistent and may or may not return if pumped.
Had this happen on three separate sets of XTs on three different bikes.
Bled them and this often showed black fluid at the lever end. Strongly suspect this to be indicative of seal degradation in the lever.
Performance marginally improved by bleed but problem soon recurred.

I’ve found the most effective solution to be following this step-by-step process:
1. Return for warranty replacement (2 yr warranty)
2. Flog replacements whilst still brand new in box
3. Swallow pride as a previously loyal XT devotee
4. Buy Hope Tech3 E4

I’m in the same situation at the minute. Bruised/cracked ribs on a Lakes ride last Tuesday. Hike-a-bike over Stake Pass after was not fun!

Rode a local loop on the Wednesday night just to see how it held up…mistake!!! Very painful when throwing bike over gates and couldn’t hold a straight line down steps and drops.

Ibuprofen and rested since and now improving.
Still painful when laying on back and when getting in/out of bed but plan to be riding Wednesday night (no hike-a-bike though)

If your Nano-X will accept the bigger seal shown in the rebuild kit, use it. I’ve found it to be really effective and keeps out everything that Winter can throw at them (when used in conjunction with a good packing of Castrol marine-grease)

Just been comparing these on paper.
P7 is a degree slacker and has a longer wheelbase but only takes a 140mm fork (Crush = 150mm)
BB is very low on the P7 too.
I’m leaning towards Bird Zero AM instead but XL isn’t due in stock for months :(

I use the method you describe (end cap pressure to purge through) on the older Nanos.
Hadn’t noticed until reading this that the Nano-X has done away with the more substantial rubber seal at the crank end of the axle. That’s a backward step IMHO.

You have my sympathy. Fell badly on a rock on Tuesday and was struggling breathing regularly for a few minutes. Just bruised I think but not pleasant.
Shouldering the bike for the remaining hike-a-bike over Stake Pass was not an experience that I wish to repeat anytime soon.
Went out for a short spin last night and really wish I hadn’t. Struggled to hold a line down steps and drops, could feel every one of ’em, plus lifting the bike over fences and gates was decidedly painful once the ibuprofen had started to wear off. In hind-sight, it was just a daft idea. I wish I’d rested it.

Sunday’s ride: From Red Pike

Tuesday’s ride: Grains Gill

I’ve always been happy buying on-line from spex4less. They offer a no-quibble refund if you don’t like (even if it’s your own silly fault).

In the case of the Monarch, and from those I’ve heard about, I’d say the warranty was more valuable than the shock :P

Eh!
We’ve just had a glorious bank hol weekend. Can’t remember the last rain I’ve seen.
Haven’t washed a bike for over a week. Dusty trails everywhere.
:D

Inconsistent problem limited to one end of the cassette = usually mech or hanger misalignment IME.

Alex,
I don’t know Lancaster well enough personally but I know that quite a few Bogtrotters live there. You could join the FB group and ask on there too.
Decent real-ale pubs are also a club speciality.

Don’t know if BMX requirements are any different to MTB, but these seem to be working well for me at the moment:
Five Ten Freerider from Scotby Cycles
10% off if you sign up to newsletter first and a bit of Quidco cashback too makes them fairly reasonable.

How old are the brakes?
I seem to be hitting a point at about 2 years old (XT in my case but internals will be no different) where the lever-feel deteriorates and becomes inconsistent.
If still in warranty (2 years), I’d send them back anyway. Chances are they’ll just replace with new.

6’2″ here too. Height mostly from long legs.
20″ 456EVO Ti fitted reasonably well but could have done with a bit more TT length as I had to run a Loooong (50mm for God’s sake) stem.

XL Liteville frames (both 301 & 601) are about 19.75″ and seem to work well for me with a 30mm stem

Have you had the wheels rebuilt?

No, just trued up in the frame and tensioned by ear.

Is it the same wheelset all the time?

Two separate Flow EX rear wheels, same build std on two different bikes. 70/30 problem split maybe. 70% breakages on 456Ti/30% on Patriot but this reflects usage split of maybe 90/10.

1) what kind of spokes are you using?

Whatever they are that come as standard on a Hope Hoops Flow-EX wheel. Broke quite a few spokes on these wheelsets, which I’ve had fitted to both 456Ti hardtail and Patriot.

2) do the spokes always break in the same place, and if so where?

90% at/in the nipple, necessitating removal of tubeless tape and replacement of nipple.

3) what kind of riding are you doing?

Rough, technical and rocky. Lakeland passes and Calderdale-tech. Often hitting decent sized boulders and waterbars at some speed on a hardtail, so it’s not entirely unexpected. Rear requires a dual-ply Maxxis running tubeless at about 30psi. Don’t often hear the rims strike unless pressure gets a bit low. Wheels generally stay true though and I don’t actually bend the rims very often.

4) are you a little on the, well, clydesdale side of things?

Nah, 6’2″ and 14st (probably 15st kitted-up)

To be honest, if any of mine were exhibiting the slightest bit of a drop, I’d be sending back now.
Simply because they appear to be replacing all those old model returns with the B1 model :)

Wow, I’m clearly in a (clumsy) minority of one here.
I find myself replacing spokes fairly regularly right from new. Probably the most common cause of removing tyre for me. On the back end it’s not often that I get sealant drying up or the tyre wearing out before a spoke goes. I just replace the broken one and re-true.

I’m confident that my wheel truing/tensioning skills aren’t the problem. Most likely down to spoke quality I suspect. (Hope Hoops/Flow EX on the hardtail is/was the worst offender in this respect)

I’d be happy to lead a Pendle route from Barley one Monday. Needs to be dry for a while to get the most out of the excellent singletrack descent down Ogden Clough.
[edit] may be a little cheeky ;) [/edit]

could do a loop over Rossett Gill, down to Styhead,

Go big, Four passes

Go VERY BIG, combine both these from Langdale side: Up Rossett; 4 passes; back down Rossett.

Put me down as a “tentative”.

Should be perfect with an oval 32t on 104BCD XT cranks.
Won’t need to buy a whole new crankset :)

+1 will work fine

+ another 1
Superstar 30t and uberbike 30t both working fine on 104 cranks

+1 oval betterer.

Well, yes maybe/maybe not. 32t is the smallest oval that you can fit on a 104BCD crank. With this, you’re effectively turning a 30t during the dead-spots and a 34t during the power bit.
I found that the “34t effective” bit was just too much with a 11-40 and I’d be off and pushing too often. Swapped to a 30t round and that’s seams better for me.

I do have a direct mount 30t oval on another bike, with a SRAM crankset. That’s working really well with 10-42.

When the big XT cassettes finally land (is it 11-46?) then a 32t oval will probably be spot-on.

yep, I’ve done this. Left too much hose in the seattube and it kinked when post lowered into tube.