Try this? https://www.ryanleech.com/manual-master-class/

I’m working my way through it.

Yeah go for it. It is a lot easier to learn on one compared with a trail bike. 26 inch wheels, hardtail, small frame, seat well out the way and short travel forks all make it easier. You can put on some fast rolling tyres and keep the pressure high and not have to worry about changing when you go back to riding trails.

You don’t need anything fancy. I went for a base model Canyon Stitched (I didn’t have an option of a decent used one local to me). Pump tracks are better on a dirt jump bike and manuals are also easier to learn on one too.

I’m currently following the Ryan Leech manual master class[/url]. There are two drills he uses to overcome the fear that you describe in the early stages of learning. Practiced often enough, I have found them to be a good way to reduce fear levels:

– Firstly by doing manual front wheel lifts and then pulling the back brake to bring the front wheel back down. This tries to establish a crucial “brain to finger pathway” to prevent looping out. Repeat this over and over so that it becomes a natural response if you get too far back.

– The next, intentionally step, or jump, off the back of the bike and land on your feet. This drill is best practiced on a grassy area with a gentle upslope. This allows you to experience what it is like to go past the balance point and know that it is not to be feared.

Ideally you should never go off the back once you trust your braking abilities.

As others have said about the manual, it’s the arse position that primarily controls height of the front wheel. I have found that this is too difficult to do at this stage of learning and I first have to concur my fears. Once the back brake response is established I can then work on using my weight to control front wheel height and prevent falling off the back.

Mike Boyd (as Nobeerinthefridge mentions) made a video on how he learns things quick, tip three of five was to break learning in to small pieces. The Ryan Leech course does this very well. All the best!

Respectfully, I’m not making any assumptions about your ability as a rider, but why not treat yourself to a coaching day instead?
Getting qualified advice from a competent coach on things as basic as body position can transform the feel of a bike. They might also suggest setup changes too.
I’m a Bronson V1 owner, its a very capable bike, but to get the best from it I need to be better. Coaching is working for me, and a step closer to find the bike limitations.

1. Crossfit and yoga
2. Strength and mobility. Hopefully more muscle around shoulders and arms will have a better chance of keeping me together in any crashes. Strength in core/trunk reduces back fatigue on long rides. Joint mobility keeps me feeling fresher for riding.
3. Circuit classes or bodyweight strength training (pushups, squats, lunges etc.)
4. Yeah. I find it relaxing and has de-stressing benefits. Like lifting heavy sh** to release aggression.

I just rode a Minion DHF 3C at Laggan at the weekend’s Scottish Enduro race – cut trails and trail centre. It didn’t disappoint at all on loam and mud, but its excellent on the hardpack and rock.
Shorty not so good on the hard stuff, bit squirmy.
DHR2 and HR2 centre knobs are angled for drive and braking, DHF has better knob direction for a front tyre doing the steering.
Minon DHF 3C is closest to a “do-it-all” Maxxis front tyre I’ve ever used.

My thoughts are that I believe that TUEs are entirely and only motivated by the desire to enhance performance. Like every other rule, they can be manipulated. Froome and Wiggo are great people, inspire generations, but they can’t do what they do without the pharmaceuticals that have been let off for using. The drugs are that effective.

I was there and thought it was awesome from beginning to end. It was way bigger than I expected. I’m sure organisers said it would be 15 mins of racing. Well elites were around 20 and I was past 28 mins!
Northwind, you may have had a slightly different experience on S6 come race day. It was extremely slippery. I loved it on practice but struggled with it in the race. Much of the pine needle loam had been dragged off to leave slick mud and roots. S3 was a good challenge.
Thanks for marshalling tandemwarriors, you were one of many great folk I met that day.
I agree, bella, prologue was fantastic. It didn’t matter it was 50s (or 62s for me), it was a hoot! It wasn’t compulsory to race either, you just had to accept slowest time +5s.

Trailhum. I’ve used them three times and each time has been a leap forward. Run by John Kettle and Ewen Turner, I’ve been coached by both and they are equally excellent. And they have done just what you are looking for… transformed me from

being a mincer on steep technical stuff

I can recommend Trailhum based in Kendal; I’ve had two lessons from John Kettle and can highly recommend him. I believe he would travel to meet you in your preferred locations, but I’ve had two cracking days in the lakes. Each introducing new skills and techniques combined with putting them in to practice on some lovely singletrack. He asked me what I wanted to work on and he tailored the format to suit me. Pretty much a perfect mix of coaching and guiding all in a day.

Cheers guys,

b r: almost exactly what happened, though I had to stop as my legs were trembling and forearms pumped, haha!

poah: will need to check that, but it’s not excessive. The problem is after the pads make contact the lever will pull further.

Suggsey: Yeah, I loosened out all the way for bleeding then readjusted after a bleed.

Another full bleed done over the weekend, bike vertical, all new fluid in and passed it back and forth several times until no bubbles. I was amazed that even on the third go I was getting some tiny air. Fairly happy that they are purged now, though not had time to test ride.

What should I realistically expect at the lever? I think I’ve lost sight of what a good brake feels like. Will pulling with all the strength of a finger give some, eg, do seals compress a little, hose expand a little, allowing lever to move further?

Thanks for the kind offer goodgrief, but I’m back home in Aberdeenshire.
Solamanda, I’ve got good brake alignment. I’ve cleaned up the pistons twice and get good movement. Though it isn’t totally even, its pretty close.

Yep I always use the Shimano branded oil.

Ah, I’ve heard of that, but I didn’t understand what it was meant to achieve. Now I see, so I’ll be trying that tonight! Cheers

Oh yeah, the Epic 5 min bleed was tried. It felt perfect immediately after that, but a short ride later that “stiff feeling” had gone.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Rotors still have loads of meat on them. I can’t pick up any wear on them with a fingernail test. I have 180/160 rotors.

Brakes are a year old.

I’ll have one more go on each end, this time thinking like a bubble 8) If it fails then I’ll hand it over to a pro. If that fails then I’ll see what my LBS who sold the bike say about a warranty claim.

Yeah new pads are in

Thanks for the response. That’s what I was wondering, had I overheated the seals.

Yeah, I did a full fluid replacement. The front brake fluid was brown, the rear looked fine, however, the rear is the worst.

I’ve tried sucking air out of fluid using a vacuum in the syringe before attaching to the calliper and extending pistons to maximise fluid in system. Bike has been rotated in the stand to get the calliper and hose vertical.