Correct part p documents are the important ones for the mortgage as it’s building regs. However some kind of documentation to say the installation is safe would be a pretty normal request, which any component electrician will provide. NIC etc is just a method of proving competence.

The iet wiring regs aren’t law, whereas part p. is. However you’ll have a fight on your hands to get part p if you don’t meet the 17th edition regs.

Sintered superstar for me

I made one of the ‘2 prong ‘tools to get the steel head out using a wood drill bit but it’s not strong enough and just bends.

Grinding down an old socket is an interesting idea to try.

Long one for me too, and that’s what I hoped for as I run a triple. Cheers op

31.9 seat post ?

It is worth noting that The claimed light output on these discount china lights are somewhat over estimated.

Nice bit of honesty in the advert too, especially as 3800 isn’t divisible by 3.

Probably give out around 2100 lumen in reality but still good value for £15 though.

Was it mentioned what’s going to happen to the plane now it’s air worthy? I missed the last few mins

Mine have done it once, had the seals changed under warranty and been fine ever since. It’s the best fork I own.

Have you tried iride?

The battery should be fine, you just need to check its rated for 1.5A discharge.

That converter is no good as it’s only rated for 0.5W. The easyest way to get the supply is to buy a car fag lighter adapter that has a USB port rated at 2.1A aand just solder wires into the connectors and connect to your battery. You can the just use a standard USB lead to connect the power to the pi.

Cheers chaps, some food for thought there. My dropper size can’t be changed, selling it could be an option but I’d rather try and avoid losing money on it if possible.

Good point about the revelations, I’ll get some pike decals off eBay 🙂

Done

Flame me all you like, but this is it

Having my bike details and address in a database concerns me

To be sure I’d restore the machine with the internet disconnected, move all the file out of you old dropbox folder (update dropbox if required also). Then re-connect to the net and let drop box re-download everything

It should sync the two together and keep newest versions of files (your option 1), but I’ve used the above method to make sure nothing is overwritten by accident.

15 replys in and no comments about the floor paint….standards are dropping chaps

SKS long boards on my commuting CX bike, mainly for the extra coverage on the front wheel

Finally had my first bad experience with PX / on one, ordered a front wheel in the sale 3 weeks ago. Been fobbed off numerous times and ended up with a refund toda (annoying as is really needed that wheel!)

First time in 5 years of buying stuff from them so hopefully it’s a 1 off

I’ve remembered now, It’s the 2010 technical manual you need. RS dropped u turn in 2011 but it seems there was a bit of a cross over as they still seemed to sell uturns for a bit in 2011

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/tm_my102.pdf

My fork is a bit different to this manual as the choke has holes in it so the assembly steps don’t work correctly as i can’t pressurise the air assembly until it’s back in the stanction.

As mines a 2011 fork too as I wonder if there was a final variant of the design before they dropped it and never bothered to release a service manual. I’ve asked around including SRAM tech services and it seems my fork doesn’t exist .

Maybe loco well see this and know better, so it’ll be interesting what you find inside your fork.

By the way my fork also leaks air for pos to neg slowerly so after each ride it needs to be re pressurised.

That’s the wrong manual, I’ve got the same fork and stripped it a while back following the manual step by step. I’ve got it stored somewhere so will have a look for it and upload it to Dropbox for you if I can find it.

Be warned though there is a variant of the fork that’s slightly different internally to the manual ( mine was like that) there are a couple of threads on here about it.

Hmmm interesting, I’ve got a 2006 explisif frame that I’ve been pondering over what I should do with it.

The forks look the same in both, do 650 wheels for in them OK?

I’m pleased it’s back….. More free tine to spend in the garage

The remote was the only thing I liked about the tmars and Joplin.

The only other possibility I can suggest is to have alook the new crank brothers dropper and see if it’s got the same remote as the Joplin

Fitted one to my old house, was pretty happy with it especially as it has the range for sensors to be fitted in my detached garage.
The only problem I had in 6 years was with the bell box being on a wall that faced direct sun light, as on a really hot day the alarm would go off for no reason. Moved the bell box to a shady wall and the problem stopped.

This is the best PIC I’ve got on my phone that shows the rock and roll/ onza adapter on a steel kona (94 lava dome )

I think so, with some pretty major mods you might get it to fit but I doubt you’d ever get it to fit tightly enough to work properly.

The rock and roll one I mentioned above does fit fine on a steel kona and that’s why I bought it originally.

If it’s a steel kona it won’t fit either

Pretty sure the a2z won’t fit that frame I’m afraid

Should have mentioned about the drilling of the frame for this mount, I decided to drill the mount to match the rack mount on the dropout. If you look closely at the above photo you’ll see 2 holes in the mint just above the QR. The larger One is the original one in the mount, the second smaller one is the one I added . In the photo the bolt is missing, but I just use a standard m4 cap head.

Here is the one i mentioned above (linked above by warcow) on a 95 kona AA. I’ve tried the A2Z on this frame also but found this one worked better as the A2Z kept binding.

The a2z one works well if your frame has a nice big drop out, the alternative is the onza / rock and roll converter like this http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=151430

I’ve got one on a steel kona as the drop out is too small for the a2z to fit on. Rock and roll bike don’t seem to be listing it at the moment so there is a chance it’s no longer available unfortunately

Out of the two I prefer the onza for function, the a2z for looks.

Same thing happened on my old trance, carefully cut a slot on either side of the race with a Dremel and then prised it out with a screwdriver

I ride past tandori nights on my commute, always smells very nice and the sudden hunger the smell creates is annoying when you’ve got another 16 miles left!

Had 8.1 now for 2 weeks, hated it at first but am coming round to it now I’ve worked it out.

Did have to install a start menu though 🙂

Not a CD, but the weekly Ben gold podcast is well worth a listen.

I’d reccomend the raj in allestree

+1 for bent hanger, spent a whole night pulling my hair out trying to get my 105 10 speed setup working. Borrowed a park hanger alligmment tool and found it was miles out even though it looked fine.

Straightened the hanger and gears worked straight away

Good for you chip.

jam bo – Member
Rejoice the saviour of old frames has finally arrived.
Eh?

Ks Lev
Gravity dropper
X-fusion
T-Mars
RSP

My point exactly, finally a decent 27.2 dropper has been produced.

Rejoice the saviour of old frames has finally arrived.