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Viewing 40 posts - 241 through 280 (of 615 total)
  • Val Di Sole World Cup DH results, report and highlights video
  • dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Sub 22lb you should be fine, I run a 34 ring with a 36 cassette on my 28lb singular swift and find grip is usually the limiting factor on the steep stuff. I want to hate 29ers but can’t 🙂

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Looks very nice, think you’ll be needing a bigger front chainring !

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Welcome to the lovely world of the 2010 revelation, I like others share your pain. I was lucky and had access to a specialist through work who measured the o ring and got me a replacement, I can’t remember the size, but think it was an american standard. I don’t work there anymore so can’t help I’m afraid (and hope my fork keep hanging on as I should have recorded the size somewhere)

    I’d suggest speaking to loco tuning to see if he can get you the right part or finish the job off for you

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    I have the same concern on the security of the database

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Does it happen in all the gears? Have you checked the chain wear?

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Last time this happened to me I took the other 5 bolts out then turned the rotor anti clockwise. It only needed about 1/8 of a turn to free the mangled bolt enough so a set of mole grips could be used to remove it.

    Edit: beaten to it

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    If you have a 10 speed chain knocking about or can pinch one temporarily off your bike, try that as a first fix. a 10 speed chain will work with a 9 speed set up

    +1

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Could it be down to 9 speed chains being a bit wider than 10 speed ones ?

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Get_iPlayer will do this for you. Just Google it for details of how to install/use.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    A couple of people I know take it and are almost fanatical about how it’s a wonder pill for energy, weight loss ect.( they are agents though)

    If it wasnt so expensive i would give it a try to see if the claims are true.

    Can’t help but wonder if it was so great how come it’s not on the high street and why is only available via private agents that operate in a kind of pyramid scheme.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    For completely wobble free the Thomson is probably the only one that will deliver this but this, but at a price.
    The hilo does wobble a bit, mines about 1mm either way and it’s over a year old. The hilo isn’t perfect, it’s been back under warranty once and losses a bit of pressure over time, but for £125 is not been a bad buy.

    If the hilo dies I’ll get a Thomson to replace it though, unless I change my frame.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    I’ve got a gpx of the 2011 route, as above a bit of it wasn’t on public trails. Happy to email or over if you still want it

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    I have the same setup on my CX bike, I’d recommend either ditching the standard noodles and replacing them with ones that have a built in barrel adjuster or fitting some inline barrel adjusters to the cable.

    Once fitted you’ll have the fine adjustment you need to get them feeling right initially and keeping it as the pads wear. They also let you get the wheel in/out with the tyre inflated.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    And patience

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    In my experience yes

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Went there a few weeks for the first time in years too, also came away thinking the same as you

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Which side of the spider have you fitted the chain ring? If its a triple chainset it needs to be on the inside

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Thanks for the replys, have to say I’m very tempted. The 4g isn’t really a worry as for me 3g is more than fast enough.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Personally I’d service the lowers to play it safe, its not a massive job at the end of the day.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Most vets offer a cremation service.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    That should read o ring, and not I ring !

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    I’ll echo connect2s reply, it’ll be the I ring on the actuator pin. Very difficult to get out without the proper tool ( which you can’t buy . I’ve made one and still can’t get it out.

    Other than buying a better one, you have the option to send it back service or live with it and pull it up by hand. I changed mine from remote to under saddle lever and just pull it up by hand, although it’s only on my hack bike now as I bought a Thomson instead.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    [

    I can’t see how it works……

    How can you disconnect the inner pipe from the valve, open the valve to force the plastic widgit through without water pouring in?

    …or is it just me??

    ^^ exactly what I was thinking whilst watching the show.

    Youd have to remove the pipe and push it through whilst water is coming in. Which isn’t too bad as the pressure will be low, but if it fails to seal it coud be a whole load of fun

    I could see it as an emergency device as it could stop you sinking but not as a maintenance device as why risk sinking your boat ?

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    The cheapest thing to do is to change the motor for a race type one. Standard tamiya kits come with motors around 27 turn, but a ‘propper’ 27 turn will be quicker. I’ve got a standard tamiya ESC running a 19 turn motor and it gets warm but hasn’t blown up yet. IIRC the standard ESC is only rated officially for 27 turn motors.

    Pleanty of motors on eBay, the team Orion ones are pretty good for the money.

    If you want to completely destroy him have a look at a 3.5 turn brush less system, that would need a lipo battery though

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    If you did it would have to go in the bin anyhow.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    5mm higher on the front will make no noticeable difference. Different front / rear tyres can have the same effect.

    Cant decide if Having less travel on the front compared to the rear will have any negative effect on the ride.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Wouldn’t bother me either.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    My aero bars don’t seem to make any difference

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Did you run into a dog on a shared cycle path?

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    I just use cheap stainless ones from eBay, and pack them full of grease before putting them in.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    I went the other way, used to have 32 spoke open pros on 105 hubs but they just felt dead for dinner reason. Whereas the 501s I’ve replaced then with feel much more alive (I’ll risk using the phrase alive when disussing wheels!!!)

    I’m not light and have done stacks of CX and commuting on them and theyve held up fine

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Yes, google “get_iPlayer”.

    Not the most user friendly bit of software but a doddle once you’ve got your head around it.

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Doh, genuinly interested in what you got though

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    £850

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Worried about forged notes, fear of being robbed?

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    rp16v – Member
    I no it lowers the axle change but I have a hope xc that refuses to die built that with a pro2 up front for fork options

    Same here, the xc was a better rear hub IMO. The only downside is QR only

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Out,(in with full face). Others in our club feel the same

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Windows live mail works fine for me

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    Handy, they are all on my commuting route

    dvatcmark
    Free Member

    That’s what I would have done too

Viewing 40 posts - 241 through 280 (of 615 total)