Back in the day a mate had a very similar frame by ballistic.

A bit of grout in the same/similar colour

Sorry for your loss, hope they turn up again.

There seems to be a lot of targeted (bike)burglerys in our area at the moment, wonder where they are getting the info from.

I use a 34 with 36 11 cassette.

Takes a bit of grunt up the steep stuff but it gives you enough top end for faster bits, tarmac etc

I’d try re fixing it with some good epoxy glue first.

Loved the outrun arcade, never was the same on the mega drive to my teenage dissapintment.

I always loved buggy boy down the arcades though. 3 screens was mind blowing¡

The one I’ve had most success with is this one
https://www.piriform.com/recuva

The rotor ones should fit and I think they use enduro bearings so should last quite well
http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vclose2.asp?prd=76574&cat=7416002009

I’d be surprised if you couldn’t just change the bearings in your one. Why not try popping the dust cover off one of the cups and see if the bearing seal has a 6000 series code printed on it

Been running 5w30 Castrol gtx ( fully syntehtic) in all my rs forks for years with no problems

I won’t use FSA again. Their BBs are so poor as to be unfit for purpose.

You’re not alone

http://road.cc/content/forum/146581-fsashimano-bottom-bracket-compatibility

If it was mine I’d take a punt and buy the pf30 version from PX for £5.99 in the hope of taking the bearings out and refitting them in the BSA shell

It’s more of a minefield than I realised, not fancying the ceramic one from PX?

This one ?
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BBFSA386EV/fsa-bb386-evo-bottom-bracket

It can be fixed but unless you’re particularly attached to the frame I would retire it

Have you tried googling ‘FSA gossamer bsa’? It should come straight up.

(BSA is the thread in the frame by the way)

I had to buy a 1 inch bung for my on one carbon forks as the 1 1/8 one was too big

Until you can’t get a wiper seal to work any more is my take on it .

I’ve got a set like that on a winter bike, still going strong 5 years after the coating came off and don’t feel any different to my other forks that still have their coating on

Those forks in the pic wouldn’t bother me on a winter/fun bike as long as the price is right

If you leave the revisoir caps on you’ll loose virtually no oil. Once re connected they usually just need a couple of pumps on the lever and that’s it

Haven’t read the full 4 pages worth so appogies it this has been covered, but if the cyclist was to be charged what would be the offence? Wanton cycling?

The last time I was in this situation, it turned out that I had a 9 speed front mech and 10 speed shifter! Thought I was going mad for a while

I popped down at 11:30 expecting everything to have gone, but strangely everything looked untouched.

The previous weeks MTB gloves were half price too, bonus

I’ve got a set of 25.4 race face carbon bars that are spare if you’re interested(email in profile)

Fairly low rise and narrow though, iirc they are 600ish wide and 20mm rise

I’ve run 5 bolts on a rear hope xc for years. I’m not a skinny rider and the hub is still going strong.

Won’t do any harm, the mark in the seat post is most likely due to the carbon shaft flexing and effectively ‘rubbing’ on the top of the seat tube

Do they also give odds on Hell freezing over?

That’s what I always thought, but with the rise of the SNP I’m not so sure anymore as both parties may decide to work together to keep the SNP out

At 33/1 on paddy power for a labour/Tory coalition im starting to wonder if its worth putting a tenner on it…..

Second set of wheels!

I’ve just jumped from Samsung to a one plus one, and am very impressed with it. Way quicker than my S4, No bloat ware and will last me 2 days on one charge, cheap too.

It’s sim free so you just get a sim only rolling contract to suit your needs

https://oneplus.net/uk/one

Dyno rod do fixed prices, just have a look. Cost me £120 18 months ago.

If you are sure the brush is down there it’d be much cheaper to buy a set (or two )of rods from tool station/screwfix etc and rod down from the soil pipe to the manhole.

1/4 drive isn’t strong enough,

This is what I use

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cis126h-6pce-1-2in-impact-hex-key-set?da=1&TC=SRC-hex%20socket

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-pro210-half-inch-drive-breaker-bar?da=1&TC=SRC-1%2F2%20bar

Think you’ll need to speak to upgrade bikes

Done that before a couple of times, works every time

It looks fake to me. Can’t put my finger on why but I don’t believe it’s real

I thought the same thing. The chef/waiters reaction seems a does bit staged to me

Bluetooth reciever or a raspberry pi running volumio wired into the amps aux input will do this pretty cheaply

My x type have always been a fight to remove. I bought a 1/2 drive Allen key attachment set from machine mart as I’ve already got a 500mm long bar in my socket set.

Just need to rest the none drive side crank arm on a step and a bit of brute force and off it comes.

I’ve got both sets and the latest version blow the previous ones away.

If the 26 inch is a large I could be interested in the frame 🙂

One of my oldest friends told me last year he deliberately passes cyclists as close as he can to try and scare them off the road……we aren’t friends any more

I can only just work out my own handwriting so it’ll be interesting to see what Google come up with 😀

Matlock bath ?