+1 for smorgasbord . Cheap, grippy and work well tubeless

I’ve got a 2010 mondo which has a USB port in the glove box, once plugged in you have full control via the head unit / steering wheel controls. The Bluetooth connection works exactly the same with my phone

Or use the female half of rear hanger bolts.

A mate did the same thing a few weeks ago. Cost him 90 quid for a new lever I’m afraid

If you ride a 26er you’ll be more than welcome 🙂

I had a tmars and it bent on the second ride. Bought a hilo to replace it and it’s been faultless to date.

Probably a daft answer, but how about asking hope ?

I’ve just fitted a 9mm superstar through axle on my qr forks and its much stiffer than a qr axle. Granted its not as good as a 20mm but it’s the best I can do.

I’ve just fitted a 9mm superstar through axle on my qr forks and its much stiffer than a qr axle. Granted its not as good as a 20mm but it’s the best I can do.

+1 for superstar sintered. Only ever experienced fade once on them and that was coming down Snowdon which I think I’d allowable!

I had some success in the past with thin pieces of brass you can get from a model shop as a shim inside of the taper , but you’re fighting a losing battle IMO

I’m thinking fast rolling tyres for an afternoon ride tomorrow

Definitely recommended, what ever happens to this country over the next 50 years the national grid will still be here.

I don’t work for them but work in the same industry, it’s not as sexy as some other trades but it’s one of the most secure industries in the country now. I spent the first 10 years of my career constantly dodging redundancy in manufacturing. Its nice to be out of that situation now.

NG have very good career development too along with Good pay.

My Smoothie mixer is still as smooth as it was when it was new and that’s after 2 years of riding with zero maintenance . maybe a dodgy batch of bearings have crept into yours?

It was the sticking pistons that made me get rid of my nines tooth

Ditch those old Hayes and get a set of shimano slx. Your Hayes rotors will work fine on them if needed as I’ve got the same set up. Rose cycles used to do the slx brakes at a bargain price

Mine did the same thing, it was the drop outs, but tightening them made no difference. In the end I took both drop outs off cleaned them up and re installed them with a bit of pace carbon grease on the contact points. Its worked a treat, no creaking for months now

Have a look on you tube a hope have put a video up on how to strip the pro 2

If I get 2 months out of one over winter I’m happy. But the bearings are only a few quid off EBay so I,m not that bothered about looking after them

Never thought of that

Would doubt its the crown race if its the correct one , although I’ve never heard f a plastic race, couple of ideas

1 check you have enough spacers on the steer tube just in case to top cap is hitting the steer tube and stopping you tightening up the headset properly

2 are any parts missing from the top of the headset ?

Not if your careful and keep checking to feel when they start too come loose. Must have taken the same arms off a dozen times using his method in the 90s and they still work fine now but I take them off with a hub puller now

Mine are the older SIDS with the different lowers to rebas and can’t say I can feel a noticeable difference in flex between them and my rebas.

A car hub puller will pull it straight off if you can borrow one. They ain’t too expensive from machine mart either.

On a square taper taking the bolt out and riding it worked fine, but never tried it on a splined bb

A car hub puller will pull it straight off if you can borrow one. They ain’t too expensive from machine mart either.

On a square taper taking the bolt out and riding it worked fine, but never tried it on a splined bb

It was fun for a bit , but went back to endomodo in the end

+1 for the proper bleed kit, took about 5mins to do my xt 775 brakes

Unless saving every gram is your aim then just go for the rebas

A mate has a pair, only problem he found was with the front disc rotor being a big too close to the fork lower (centre lock ) . Couldn’t find a solution other than letting the rotor wear a bit of the fork lower away so it stopped catching.

My joplin did the same thing, makes no difference to the post, like you say there is no oil/ air seal made on the outer. Probably means it’ll have a bit more friction going down, but like that’ll matter !

Frankie’s Italian is worth a visit

2pure are amazing, the service I recieved with my faulty Joplin was 1st class.

My Joplin 3 did the same as this on 1 ride, was caused by the post having lost a bit of oil and having about 5mm of sag at full extension. Not really noticeable when riding but the movement was enough to wear the coating of the sanction.

Example of 26 inch tyres, obviously new tubes are required

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Schwalbe-CX-Pro-26-inch-Tyre_51669.htm?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Product_Search&utm_campaign=Froogle02

You can get cross tyres in 26 inch. I bought a set from CRC recently

I liked the irony of mud damaged MTB tyres….bought a pair of them in the sale To try out up Scotland over my usual tyre.

Very impressed with the tyre, provided lots of predictable grip in the wet and dry. Nice size for a 2.25 too. Will by trying it out in the peaks on Sunday but so far another excellent product from on one.

Can’t comment about the performance n deep / loamy mud , but why would you run such a big tyre in these conditions anyway

I gave my 94 lava dome a fresh look for this year, had to drop the forks down to 80mm to keep it handling OK. Its great fun on single tracks.

I had the same thing with a pair of MaXxis advantage, weird

My work in progress 94 lava dome, my favourite bit is a v brake on the back and a disc rotor, causes some really confused looks

Have a look at our club, think it’ll suit what your looking for. http://www.dvatc.co.uk ( derwent valley all terrain club),we are out in the area every Tuesday night and Sunday mornings.

I just fit the forks to the bike put all spacers on then the stem, mark the steer tube all the way round with a make pen, then take the forks out , put them in the vice and cut the tube with a hacksaw around 5mm below the line.

As said above it doesn’t need to be cut perfectly square anyhow.