The last two bits are the trail that traverses from intake lane to Holmesford cottage, and one of the ambergate wood trails.

The easiest way to link then up is just pop out at holmesford cottage, ride on the a6 the whatstandwell then take the road climb to the top of ambergate woods

Just found a photo of my 94 lava dome with the Reba’s fitted. 120mm stem though so it didn’t steer very well.

After trying various ‘modern’ forks on my 90s konas I settled on a Reba set to 80mm with a 90mm stem

If you like the s2 go for the s4 as you’ll probably dislike the small screen on the mini.

Me and the Mrs both had s2s I got the s4 and like it she got the mini and wishes that she had gone for the s4.

The only real benefit IMO of the mini is its smaller size

Following this too as I want to do something similar in the next couple of years. If the front seats don’t swivel round where do you sit? Or is the plan to have an awning on this side as ‘living ‘ space

I know where your coming from I use headphones for my commute but would like to be able to hear what’s going on around me to.

http://m.screwfix.com/details.htm?id=11467&csnbl=1

When I first got my fork back I thought it was still knackered

I’ve got the same fork which went back to SRAM under warenty as the u turn failed
It came back with a new uturn assembly and a full service by SRAM and it behaves like your fork. I always run around 10psi less in the neg chamber or the fork sucks down and dives too much .

Its different to my other rs forks which all have matched +- pressures yet its the plushest fork I own

The annoying thing is that Alan Sheldon from Matlock in Derbyshire won the race beating James by days and he barely got a mention on the show.

On top of the two above I’ll add the onkyo crn-755 into the mix.

It’s the one I went for in the end and an very pleased with it. Having full control from your phone / tablet is very handy

My tmars bent on its second ride. Replaced it with a xfusion hilo which has lasted fine for a year now

Splitting the upper and lower tubes for a clean / re grease is really easy, just one 10mm bolt.

It only needs a pofessional if the internal seals need replacing. This will be the case if the post sinks in its own.

2 pure are the only ones as far as I know.

Why does it need servicing?

I use my worn Reba’s as winter forks now , I don’t look after them as much as I should and ride them solely in crap but they just keep soldiering on.

I serviced mine propperly too, bit they still wore. I can only assume that I should have changed the wiper seals sooner as dirt must have got past them

Cheap chain, wash with hose, blast with gt85, lube with old engine oil or cheap chain lube and replace chain immediately on 0.75 wear.

Strangely my Reba’s with worn stanctions are the most supple fork i own ( I’ve got 2 more sets of Reba’s too )

I adjust my calliper to align my pads if youre being that picky.

If the rear mount is miss assigned a new brake will make no difference.

+1 for having the disc mount re faced.

Out of interest how do you align your pads?

Same thing happend to my Reba’s, I swapped the air and damper round. Works fine despite the damper stanction not being honed on the inside.

Yep they are just 100mm I’m afraid.

Have you put it back together yet as when I tried that method I couldn’t get the piston back in as the o ring jammed on the threads in the top of the stanction

There’s no way to tell for sure with out stripping the fork down. I’ve got 3sets of pre 2012 Reba’s , two can be increased to 115/120 and one can’t. The one that can’t is aftermarket the other two are oem.

Stripping the fork is easy, have a look on SRAMs you tube channel as they have some good videos on there of how to do it. IMO the most difficult part of the strip down is getting the circip out of the bottom of the satanction so that the air chamber can be disassembled.

I’ve changed to collect plus instead, much simpler than using the post office and have no risk of things being binned.

I found the same thing with slx calipers and superstar adapters, and that was with superstar rotors . Bought a set of shimano adapters and the problem went away and all the pad was in contact with the rotor.

I buy mine from eBay

Sounds like it needs a bit more oil. If its still under warranty send it back to be serviced. Mines been back for a similar problem one so far and will be going again soon.

Wish Thomson would hurry up with their 27.2 dropper so I can get rid of the hilo

Or this

1996 Explosif

My dad was in a similar position about 10 years ago when he decided to have surgery to extend his leg but by 30mm.

Having seen what he had to go through I wouldn’t recommend this unless it really is your last resort. He’s only got back to normal in the last year or so.

On the chain ring front Officially no, but in practice it works fine.

I don’t think the front shifter will work with a 9 speed mech. Shimano changed the cable pull ratio on the rear and I assume they did the same on the front.

My thought about the damping is that the damper may be slowing the high speed compression of the fork stopping you getting full travel. With the air out of the fork you’ll be compressing the fork slowly so this might hide a damping problem.

Too little negative air will also stop you getting full travel. I always set my negative air by keeping pumping the neg chamber up until the fork just starts to pull down, usually this requires a bit more pressure than the poss chamber.

I’ve got the same fork and have no problem getting full travel out of them infact they are the plushest set of forks I own. My initial thought would be to check your compression damper over and replace the oil.
I run mine at 150psi in both chambers by the way

2010 fork? I think there was a problem with some u turn forks around this era and RS stopped making the ubturn soon after. Mine did exactly as you described, also my uturn stopped working. I tried a full service including new seals but this didn’t work, so I sent them back under warranty. They came back with a new u turn assembly and have worked fine ever since.

I’d give the model exchange hobby shop in hollywell a call to see if they are interested in buying it as a job lot.

http://Www.mehs.co.uk

What size frame are you ? I’ve got an 18 inch 2006 Explosif frame that I’m reluctantly thinking about selling as it’s a bit too small for me.

On a nineties kona I wouldn’t go any longer than 80mm I’ve tried all sorts of set ups and any longer spoils the frames handling IMO.

They work fine in race face bbs but shimano use an odd size bearing. This is why I use race face bbs

I just use cheap chains and run them dry. They last about 2 months (pc951) and cost less then a tenner

I use a 35 tyre on my commuting cross bike, but with SKS longboards

An earth between the amp case and turntable case will fix this. With no earth terminal on the turntable the usual fix is to loosen one of the case screws and then tighten it back up with the wire trapped.

Any old piece of wire will do the job