My Thomson is a year old now and still rock solid, no play in any direction and as smooth as it was brand new.

Motoped Survival Bike

I remember reading on a different thread a bit ago that tubes can stop the bead locking in propperly because of how it pushes on the tyre.

Only in tubeless do the beads lock.

When I got mine to my stans I always go to 50 psi+ without a tube.

The only other thing stopping it could be the bead being to big for the rim hooks

I have to over inflate tyres to 50psi to make them lock in sometimes

Pipe lagging on the frame / forks when on the bike rack

Extractor fans are now required by building regs, but if you can prove your bathroom pre dates the change in the regs ( can’t remember when it changed sorry ) tell the solicitor / buyer to do one

We bought our house last year and the survey made no mention of the asbestos roof on the garage. I knew about it from viewing so it wasn’t a surprise.

Should it have been detailed out of interest?

Not in my area annoyingly , be worthwhile checking this out op

I’ve been thinking similar thoughts about encapsulating the asbestos . if I can find a corrugated roof sheet that has the same profile it could be attached on top of the asbestos . the inside could then be insulated and ply lined.

I’d treat this as my last resort to be honest as it wouldn’t be as good as a new roof

I’m not fused about taking it off. It’s getting rid of it is the problem, our local tip will only let you take 1 sheet in your life time.

I’m in the same boat, but in the Midlands. Best I’ve found so far is a grand for the roof to be removed. Looked at getting an asbestos skip to remove it myself and that’s 700 on its own.

Then there’s the cost of a new roof, I’m going to do it myself using timber/ply/felt but I reccon that’s going to cost about £300 in materials

I just bought a copy from a UK seller on ebay for a fraction of the price of an original part. Works just fine

Been meaning to order a set of those as that will solve the problem. Just need to find another £18 of stuff on PX now 🙂

If I run the cable slack enough to pop the pipe out the brakes don’t work properly. Perhaps I have different pipes to you. 5700 levers also pull more cable which helps

Yes but the pads have to run close to the rim which means getting the wheel in/out with a cross tyre fitted can be difficult.

Mine are tektro mini v with 105 5600 brifters , it’s with it for no front brake judder IMO.

Tbh you don’t really need it on the rear

I use race face ones as the bearings are a standard size and you can buy the plastic caps if you damage them.

The stock bearings are garbage, but did she a tenner you can get a pair of stainless bearings which last 1 year plus (still going).

I just take the valve core out and inject a new dose of sealant.

If it’s a brand new tyre I’d recommend putting a tube in it over night to ‘stretch’ the tyre and get rid of any creases on the bead before trying it tubeless.

Xtr can have different spacing to the ‘standard’ 104mm BCD. So you need to check what BCD your chainset is first then buy a set of rings to suit.

Hope have a good video on you tube.

When I did mine the silver end cap went on the drive side and the coloured end cap on the non drive side ( assuming you haven’t got a silver conversion kit of course )

Edit just reailised this is an evo hub mine was just a pro2 so the above may not be correct sorry

Been running the advantage tubeless for years on arch rims and 717s with rim strips. Never had a problem yet with the side walls although I don’t run very low pressures (30 to 35psi)

Ebuyer has a lot of pretty good deals on at the mo

I run 150mm forks on a 160mm frame and I’m still alive 🙂

I’ve seen the same thing on my s4 a friend who has a nexus 5 also had it. I’ve been looking for a fix but have not found anything yet.

My problem started after the KitKat update, tried a factory reset but that’s made no difference

Can’t beat a bit of piano on the dancefloor

Is there a serial number on the back of the crown? If so it might have the year as part of it

I can’t find my copy, but here is where I got it from.

Just scroll down to the 2005 section

http://my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/index-16.htm

I had the same fork on my 2004 caldera and used the same manual linked above to service them intially. They are a basic fork internaly so theres not to much to get wrong. I did have a more detailed manual for the fork somewhere ( think it was the dealer manual), I’ll have a look and see if I can find it and upload it somewhere for you.

Just make sure you use the correct weight of oil (7.5 wt) as if you change it to something else it’ll change how the fork feels.

Some good trails round breadsall too…….

Same tyres on my cross commuting bike. 1000 miles so far and still look like new, not had a single puncture either.

Good stuff, should be fine as at the end if the day a rim strip is just a bit of thick inner tube

I’m just planning to write 650b on the side walls of my tyres in tipex

I’d try fixing it first with a bit of vulcanising solution and possibly a patch

When that happens its normally due to air getting under the rim strip, do i would take the tyre off clean \ reseat the rim strip and try again

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/hurricane-components-fork-up-standard-20mm/rp-prod18596

But they aren’t cheap. If your handy with a welder it wouldn’t be hard to make one

Francos Italian is good too

Just given my fs a 10mm rear conversion, can’t say I feel any massive change over a qr but I’m much happier throwing the bike off big stuff now as it feels much more substantial than a qr pin

20 quid order placed Thursday night, arrived by RM this morning

Use it as an excuse to head down machine mart and get a compressor

Like this
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191236369671&alt=web