I built a very similar thing for our cooker, the curved bottom sections are constructed basically the same as re ramp post above. The sides are made from 18mm plywood as part of a cls studwork frame. The oak beam is just for effect.

The curved plaster board is just normal 12mm board with loads of cuts on the back to make it flexible. The plasterer used flexible plastic beading for the edge.

Here’s a photo pre plaster

https://ibb.co/tXbfzyR

And one close up of the curved bit

I’ve just seen the post in the FS forum that both the FS and wanted sections will be closing shortly.  Thats one more nail in the coffin for this forum

53 miles seems pretty good, mine lasted about 15

I’d try removing the spring/ball bearing that provides the clicks to on the adjisyer to see if it’s full of gunk or broken.  I’ve had my levers to bits and there’s nothing really inside that can get jammed.

My ultimates have a habit of sticking like that, all mine need is a bit of persuasion with a pair of pliers to get them moving, then they work as normal again.  I just put a bit of rag over the lever to avoid damaging the alloy with the pliers.

I sanded my guide ones down, was surprisingly easy to do actually.

I rubbed the piston down on my guides , it’s was surprisingly easy actually.

Oragel from a chemist

Cheers for the advice chaps

Does this route include the extras you mentioned Mike ?

<span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”>https://lakesmtb.co.uk/routes/borrowdale-bash/</span&gt;

Works fine for me too, opened up perfectly in the alpinequest app on my phone (android)

I’ve always used SRAM chains too as I prefer the power link connector over the shimano black pin method.

Isn’t WhatsApp owned by Facebook?

Did you bleed it with the return adjuster set to maximum

The site became pretty much unusable for me on Android/chrome . So I’ve had to change to a different browser just for this forum.

Youre correct RS and RSC have a different lever. I’ve got RSCs and a set of R , the R do feel very wooden compared to the RSC

The RSC are brilliant brakes, better than XT IMO, other will disagree but I like a progressive feel rather than on/off.

I’d start off looking for some rs levers.

I’ve been getting loads like hatter posted. Use the forum less now because of it.

I did the same thing but used a Topeak brass presta head.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352148422883

I just cut the original connector off and fitted the Topeak one into the end of the cut hose and clamped it with a jubilee clip

If you’ve got a superhub2 ask to be upgraded to the new superhub3.

My superhub2 started to behave very odly, not quite the same as yours but along similar lines (randomly dropping connections), tech support couldn’t solve it so they replaced it. The new hub has sorted all the problems out.

Heard what happend and saw the photos on Tuesday. All the best with the healing and hope to see you out again soon.

Had the one plus one which was good for nearly 3 years but then got a bit slow as software progressed, now have the 5. Can’t really fault the 5, also dual sim card ability is great if you have a work phone and a personal phone or want pay as you go for calls etc and a data sim for t’Internet.

If you get one just be careful when it’s new as it can be a sod to pull off the valve and if your not careful you can easily smash the back of your hand onto the disc rotor when it finally comes off the valve.

Yes, the SKS one

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401403005536

I bought a cheap car tyre inflator from screwfix, cut the shader valve off and replaced it with the SKS one and it works a treat

Yew will be sapping resources

Could be chain ring bolts too

When I took an older version of that light to bits the led board screwed into the body.
You had to put a pair of pins (I used nails) into a vice spaced the same as the holes in the led board, drop the light onto them and turn the body to undo it.

My nukeproof scout 290 (2017 version) has a 142 rear end, not a boost.

As above Giants are 30.9

I had this in a shimano crank arm when I stupidly used a ball ended Allen key. To get it off I used a Dremel with a thin cutting disc to carefully cut the bolt in half. Once cut both halves of the bolt came out easy. The non-allen end just needed a score in the end to get a flat bladed screw driver on to it .

Based on the work done I think the most likely explanation is that you’ve got an exposed earth wire very close to an exposed neutral. (Could be a cut in the insulation where the wired have been stripped)

I’d whip the covers off the junction box and socket off to see what you can find.

If all’s good inside both you could be looking at an internal cable fault on one of the sections you’ve manipulated

No you won’t have damaged the RCD

Could the trip in the might be a coincidence? Any light bulbs blow over night that might have caused the RCD to trip out ?

If you touched neutral and earth together during the work it will have caused the RCD to trip.

My on one knuckleball bars snapped in exactly the same place, but just on a flat bit of bridleway. I came away with broken ribs though as I had a pretty big over the bars moment followed by a hard landing.

I’ve never over tightened the brakes either and they hadn’t suffered any previous crash damage, so can only assume it was poor manufacture and/or materials

Mega 290?

I’m very happy with my nukeproof scout 290

Haven’t je James opened an ebike showroom?

I went modern

Mine ‘lost’ a quarter of a tank of diesel last time it was in the main dealers

Looked like they wanted to make a 5 part show then thought sod it that’ll do. Shame, would’ve been good with a better ending.

This is exactly what I thought, shame as the first two episodes were really good.