I don’t have any cards set up on my lads xbox after Microsoft tried to renew something automatically. If he gets money to spend online I purchase a gift card from cdkeys on my phone using paypal then text him the code to enter into his xbox. Its normally a few pence cheaper and you get an instant code download.

Hi,

Thought it best to tag onto the end of this thread rather than starting another one.

I’m pretty close to hitting the buy button on one of these bikes. I will probably go for the tempest over the pickenflick mainly due to the thru axles and mudguard mounts although budget may yet dictate that I end up with the pickenflick.

However I have a few question for owners of both.

Firstly what size is everyone on? I’m 6’3 with a 33″ inseam so according to the size charts I’m in XL territory. My mtb (Cannondale F29) is a large which feels good and my road bike (Ribble 7005 Sportive) is a 58 which I sometime think is a tad short but it’s my only ever road bike so I have nothing to compare against. Anyone with any advice on sizing?

Also, does anyone know what the max chain ring size is on either of these bikes. I’m looking to go 1×11, either force or rival. They both come with a 42 tooth chainring but just curious if bigger can be fitted if the need arises.

Cheers for any help, Rob.

Hey,

I’m going too, taking my 10 year old son to his 1st gig!

No idea where to get a good curry on the quayside.

Mantra (which is Thai) on Forth Banks used to be nice when it was a Chinese but I’m not sure how much use that is to you. It is close to the Arena though.

Enjoy.

Rob

It will be the leaky o seal problem (although last time I mentioned that half the forum told me I was talking rubbish). I had a few calipers do exactly the same thing, no discernible loss of fluid but if the bike was left unused for anything over a week the brakes squealed like mad and had no power. 20 mins of hard braking seemed to cure it until the next time.

I tried everything, cleaning, sanding, new rotor, new pads, eventually always the same squeal.

Eventually I just bought some Magura MT2 and haven’t touched my brakes since. I actually took a punt on some Chinese MT2 off ebay but they were spot on and came with new rotors. I sold my old shifter bought a used zee shifter with a clamp and sold the shimano levers.In all it didn’t cost much more than £30. Money well spent.

I’ve recently changed from a Garmin 610 to TomTom Spark 2 Cardio/Music.

I much prefer the TomTom. The music function works well and saves a lot of faff with ipod/phone. The HRM seems to work well also, within a few beats compared to manually taking my pulse. The 610 didn’t have an optical HRM for comparison but I always found the chest strap a little uncomfortable. The TomTom syncs much better than the Garmin ever did (although different model maybe the 235 is better). The TomTom mobile app is also pretty decent. I seem to get a much quicker satellite lock with the TomTom as well. I’ve also have several software updates in a few months, don’t think I ever had any from Garmin.

Having said all that, The Garmin interface was much more configurable with regards as to what/how much info was displayed on any screen, which was handy when doing proper training. I run for enjoyment now rather than with any goals in mind so I’m not really bothered when out for a run. The TomTom is more than good enough.

The Garmin also gave a much more accurate ‘current pace’ reading, the TomTom seems pretty hit and miss in that respect. Overall the distances recorded over the same run only vary very slightly between the two systems.

I bought the Tomtom mainly for the music and to wear it for recording runs. I haven’t worn a watch for about 20 years but find myself wearing it all the time as it records daily steps, resting heart rates etc. I also record all bike rides, gym sessions etc on it, basically any activity.

Overall if your looking for something to record activity I would recommend the TomTom. If your looking for a more serious training aid (I’m thinking specifically running here) I would probably go for the Garmin.

Hope that helps.

Apologise if its been done but cant see the links from work.

The actual answer to this question is ‘Everybody want to be a cat’ from The Aristocats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JI7cIYcnTRU

Link may or may not work but again done ‘blind’ from work. 🙂

Well I’ve pulled the trigger and have a set of MT2s winging their way to me.

So now it appears that I need something so I can use my shifters with these brakes.

I’m probably late to the party on this one but this whole shimano i-spec thing is confusing me a tad.

My shifters are Shimano SLX SL-M670-B, which I now understand to be i-spec b.
So in order to use these with the Magura Mt2 will this adapter work?

https://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/81916/Magura_ShiftMix_Shimano_I_Spec_I_II_Handlebar_Clamp_Individual_Black_Left_Hand?gclid=CjwKCAjw6szOBRAFEiwAwzixBY1TA5rxFoQ7DFyOKHIEv1cOkR6i9Gi5oMRbpne8fK0L0BnkMnTDVRoCiJwQAvD_BwE

They seem to be for i-spec i + ii, but I can’t find anything about i spec i, is it the same as i spec b?

So can someone confirm that these will work?

Cheers

Fwiw I have 3 sets of Deore brakes going back to 2003 and this 2010 ish caliper will (if it is leaky) be the only one that’s ever given grief despite copious neglect.

The SLX i had previously were excellent, not a pick of bother despite similar levels of neglect (my bikes get a wash when it rains, I only really maintain the drivetrain). These deores have be awful though and put me off trying any of the more expensive ones.

I’ve ordered a lot from China/Hong Kong over the years, always got here and always as described, mostly lower priced items.

They do occasionally like their counterfeit good though, not sure how these could be but i’d hate the brake equivalent of the copycat cars they knock out to turn up!

Probably right about the warranty thing as well, better safe than sorry.

garage-dweller – Member
A few things to try/think about.

Did you reset the pistons before trying again? I.e. Push them both back in fully.

Are you sure they are properly bled?

Also how do you line up your calipers? Do you get the disc central in the slot and then bolt up or do the loose bolts and put the brakes on thing? I find the former works better if the pads aren’t unevenly worn.

Yep piston fully reset.
Brakes seem bled well enough.
Normally align the calipers by eye, the pull brakes and tighten bolts method never seems to work for me.

When they work they are great brakes, easy to bleed, good power, I’m just sick of never knowing if they are going to work the next morning or not!
The above was more of an observation than anything else, they are destined for the bin (or ebay as ‘spares or repairs’ more likely – someone will take them).

Just to add i quickly pulled the pads out of the deores when i got home from work there. No sign of any obvious leaks anywhere. There is however slight signs of fluid on the back of the pads, nothing major. Nothing around the connectors either.

So i pumped the leaver a little with the pads out, on both calipers the pistons don’t move equally. The piston on the side of the caliper where the hose connects moves a lot less. Coincidence – probably. Anyway, I then pumped the leaver with the moving piston clamped in place and the other one seemed to move freely enough, didn’t seem stuck at all. Pump leaver with both pistons free and same uneven movement. No sign of any fluid when i was doing all this.

I hate it when things don’t work for no obvious reason, I need to know! lol

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

Seems to be a lot of love for the Maguras out there, I’m sold.

So with that in mind what am i missing about this ebay listing, surely too good to be true? Theres got to be a catch right?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magura-MT2-Disc-Brake-2-Position-Front-Rear-Set-Hydraulic-w-160mm-rotors-/322045704781?epid=0&hash=item4afb6b7a4d:g:pVMAAOSwMVdYIcvt

Just for balance I did run a set of SLX (M666 I think) which were pretty trouble free. Sold them with the last bike.

Changing rotors, cables, pads (again) might well solve the issue but to be honest I’ve spent too much time on these things already. Every time I change them, or just clean rotors, put in new pads and bed in they are fine…..for a while at least. Leave them sat for a few weeks, and back to square 1.

So I think I’m just going to try the Magura MT2, whats the worst that can happen, cant be any worse right! Although when I price it all up, figure out what I need etc I’m not ruling out a set of Hopes.

So new Magura or used Hopes? lol

PeterPoddy – Member

After 5 callipers I’d suggest it’s not Shimanos fault but more like operator error somehow.

I’m not going to say it definitely isn’t user error, but i’m not sure what i’m doing to cause the issues. Fine when the bike goes away, awful next ride. I’m going with bad luck. I suspect the fact the bike can sit for a while between rides doesn’t help either.

Maybe the missus is eying up the insurance payout and applying oil to the brakes when i’m not looking!

Either way, even if it is my fault somehow, a change might eliminate that aspect of it.

So now that my sanity has been confirmed…….

Is there any reason to go for MT4 or MT5 over the MT2 for my purposes, given the deore were enough power. Also do I need new rotors, a quick internet browse seems to suggest I should swap to Magura rotors. Also what, if anything do I need to attach my shifter?

Or will the Hopes, Tech 3 X2 be a better, if more expensive option in terms of maintainability. I think I can attach the shifters straight to the brakes and reuse rotors (after a good scrub).

On a completely unrelated topic, does anyone want to buy some nearly new shimano brakes, a spare caliper, bleed kit and about 750ml of genuine oil?

In your defence, there’s been a few yes. Not loads though

I’ve got 5 deore calipers than have all eventually done this, some sooner than others. 100% strike rate. I cant really comment on other peoples experiences, nor am I really bothered. My experiences of Shimano has put me off.

Might have to do a bit more reading up on the Magura MT2, my wallet likes the look of these. Although Hope do look good too.

Thanks for the helpful answers guys. At least I didn’t imagine the issue! 😀

So none you guys have heard of people having issues with leaking Shimano calipers? Not been any threads on here with others having problems?

Apologies.

Bump for the ‘should be doing something constructive at work’ crowd

Hi,

So I made a press and pushed everything back in, no problems. However tonight there was a bit of a clicking sound from the BB and when I’ve looked the cup has moved out again.

Will applying loctite to the cup before pressing it back in and if so which one?

Also, can anyone one enlighten me as to what kind of bottom bracket this is? The bike is a Cannondale F29 and the spec sheet specified ‘FSA BB30 w/Wheels Mfg adapter’. Having googled a bit it seems its not actually a BB30 as I had assumed. The bearings are in a plastic sleeve and there are no circlips involved. Also the mentioned adapter seems to work differently ie goes into the already installed bearings.

What I have looks like a HT2 BB without the treads on the cups.

Sorry for the numpty question but I’d like to know what I need to buy if I have to replace.

Cheers,
Rob

Edit: should add im using HT2 cranks if it matters.

Cheers for confirming it’s not meant to be like that! How do you get the cup out or am I best taking it to the lbs?

To be honest this is the first I have noticed it so cant say what it was like before I swapped the cranks.

I got the bike on the Internet so if there is a chance I could have caused this I will just get it sorted myself at the lbs.

I was stuck at that sort of pace for a few years. I used to do every run as fast as I could.

In April, after spending last winter running intervals 2 or 3 times a week I discovered it had made no difference at all to the time of my longer runs.

So I did a bit of reading up on things and came to the conclusion my aerobic system was rubbish and I had never spent any time improving it.

So I got myself a heart rate monitor and from about May last year I ran every run at about 65% max heart rate (which turned out to be 11-12 min/mile to start). It was the most frustrating thing ever.

Anyway, to cut a long frustrating story short, in about July I decided to run my local 10k route flat out to see how things were going and did it in 48mins, an improvement of over 4 mins.

I started mixing the training up a bit more and ran a 7min PB at the great north run but I reckon if I had stuck to running slow it could have been a bit better. I should maybe add I was running anywhere between 25-40 slow miles per week.

Anyway, take from that what you will, but if you only ever run flat out try backing right off for a few months and see how it goes. Its actually quite enjoyable running slow once you can get over the shame of being overtaken by everyone!

Rather impressed that the OP has managed to find that there’s a forum beyond the classifieds.

What are you basing that on big lad? Not really that impressive when you consider my 1 post in the classifieds. Maybe your just easily impressed!

Surely a stealth ad would require pics. I see this as more of a casual interest generator. 😀

I’m very much of the opinion that if someone wants your bike badly enough they will get it regardless of what lock you use. At best its a small deterrent.

Buy whatever lock meets the minimum specified by your insurance company (mine has no minimum so i use a £20 D-lock) and be done with it – worst case scenario you get a nice new shiny bike 🙂

Thank you Sunday jumper – a most insightful and helpful post!

Ok, I realise I am probably getting annoying now but I like to learn about what I am buying so I can make an informed choice. Just so happens I have never bought wheels before (or serviced a set) so I know nothing!

Anyway, I think I am probably going to buy a wheelset from Superstar but there seems to be 3 choices of hubs, Switch EVO, Switch Ultra or Tesla Evo. Anyone know the difference or which is best?

Cheers,
Rob

Buying wheels shouldnt be this hard, especially coming from the no name generic stuff I was using!

Given all the info above and having done a bit of reading I have narrowed things down a bit. I think im right in thinking cartridge bearings need less attention, and so they are for me and Shimano stuff is off the list.

I also dont want to buy new rotors so i need 6 bolt hubs.

Im still torn between new from superstar or better wheel second hand, what risks am i running getting 2nd had ones? Is there a chance they could die within weeks and leave me back where i am now or would it be a case of new bearings and good to go again?

Finally how much difference is a few 100g going to make in reality?

Cheers,
Rob

You dont need to guess – my bulk is mentioned in the origional post 😀

Should I be looking at anything with less than 32 spokes given my weight?

Have I just been called a fat git????? lol

So a few suggestions all around the same price, but I have no idea which is best so anyone willing to give a definative answer on which of the superstar builds is the best for me? Also are the superstar wheels better quality than the cheaper Shimano wheels?

With regards to XC rims, the only mtb wheels I have ever used are the ones that came on the Boardman and I have had no problems with the rims that im aware of, only the hub.

Im not adverse to buying 2nd hand if I am getting substantially better wheels, the problem is how do I know they are in good nick before buying given im a numpty?

Cheers for the help so far.
Rob

Only got one voucher – camr the other day with my order – no freebies though.

I have already e-mailed it to Nemesis on the address in his profile so may or may not work.

If you haven’t used it yet Nemesis sorry – you snooze you lose and all that!

And the magic number is: CRCMZBK5VHW

May the best man win.

Rob

Its a mystery because thats what it says on the voucher (anything up to 40% apparently)

Got an email to send it to nemesis?

email sent to address in your profile – enjoy

Hi,

Thanks for the replys.

I think I will give BT a call and see what I can get out of them (although not holding my breath). Unfortunatly I am unable to get Infinity where I live so that option is ruled out.

Am I correct in thinking the Asus Dark Knight mentioned above would also require me to use a seperate modem?

Also, would getting a Dual Band router be worth it for me?

Cheers,

Rob

Hey people,

I never post on here but the world (or at least you guys) need to know about these

http://www.arrogants.com/songs.html

I stumbled upon them a few years ago and cant get enough. Unfortunately commercial success never really happened and they have since split up and gone their seperate ways.

On a plus note all their music is free to download on their website linked above.

Give it a go, you might like it as much as i do (and if you dont it was free anyway).

Rob

jivehoneyjive YGM.