I’ve got the Orange Micro Crush, the older version of the Crush Mini linked to above. It’s handy for what it is but is limited. Most people raving about the Micro Crush love the fact it can power a separate cab. Hell, I think that’s a cool feature, but realistically I doubt I’d use it. People think that the inbuilt speaker sounds poor, and I kind of agree.

I’ve also got a Vox pathfinder 10 that’s ok, but mains powered only. If I was buying a portable amp now I would look at the Blackstar Fly 3, Boss Katana mini or a Yamaha THR, or the Vox Adio. From what I’ve seen they’re top of their game at their respective price points, they all sound great.

These from merlin

https://www.merlincycles.com/ritchey-comp-flat-mtb-handlebars-111731.html

Cheap, narrow but white.

Sorry for your loss.

I’m running an XT M760 rear mech with a 12-36 cassette. Shifting is fine, but the B screw is maxed out in the frame.  I’d imagine you’d need to run a mount extender like a goat link to run a 40t cassette.

19.1 here.

I am not particularly active, don’t eat that well and have an office job. I am far from fit.

However I don’t eat that much, don’t drink large quantities of alcohol and have always been skinny.

I’ve gained a couple of kilos in the last year or so, and could do with gaining some more lean muscle, which I plan to do through exercise and diet changes.

My little Topeak Hexus one has a chain-breaker and the usual assortment of allen keys, but none of these appear to be removable (as far as I can tell). How am I supposed to operate the chain-breaker without taking an extra allen key with me, or is there a trick for getting the right bits off?

Or am I just being stupid?

One of the tyre levers has an allen key that fits the chain tool.

I also have a hexus, but the chain pin has snapped and although replacements should be available I am struggling to find one for a good price. Some of it is rusty so I may just replace it. Whatever I get next will have replaceable chain tool pins.

I’ve also got the HG400 12-36, shifting is smooth enough with my old XT 9 speed rear mech and shifter, and it didn’t feel too much heavier than the 11-32 I took off. I wish it was an 11-36 though, I might have a play around with it as suggested above.

I keep toying with upgrading to 11 speed, as it would give me a higher and a lower gear, but part of me thinks that I should stop spending money on this bike and start saving for a new one.

Awesome news!

I converted from 3×9 to 1×9 over the winter on my HT, mainly as when I replaced the cassette and chain I discovered the chainrings weren’t all that great. I used the Shimano 12-36 cassette, new chain, 32 tooth narrow wide and single ring bolts were from Uber Bikes. That was using my existing old XT rear mech and triple chainset.

I’ve not ridden it a huge amount, but when I have been out it’s been fine, so problems shifting or dropping chains. If you’re replacing your cassette and chain I’d be tempted to put a narrow wide on too. If you want more range Sunrace do 11-40 cassettes, but you’ll probably need to run a goat link too for extra rear mech clearance. I’ve never tried this but there are a few videos on youtube of people running this setup happily.

Awesome, thanks for posting that. I may look into getting a set of 650b wheels fir the summer.

I bought a set of second hand rollers with metal drums and found them to be louder than I expected, not sure if there was a problem with them though. I gave them away as a change in circumstances meant I didn’t have anywhere to use them. I liked the idea of rollers as they were supposed to be more engaging and I’d read they were quieter to use.

I now have an Elite fluid trainer with an elastomer roller and find this fairly quiet in use. It feels realistic too, which is nice, but you can’t change the resistance on the trainer itself, you have to use the gears, same as the rollers I had.

Rollers help you develop a better technique and become a smoother rider, but require good core strength to remain balanced, turbos can be better for increasing power output. Based on my own personal experience I’d go with a turbo, but I just want something to pedal on in winter, I’m not into serious training. The best option for you depends on what you are looking to get out of it.

Awesome. It’s much cheaper and simpler than the one I made from an old welding gas bottle and some fittings.

If I didn’t already own one I’d buy this instead. Or wait for the Milkit Booster to be released, which I may buy anyway for portability reasons.

The video for it was great, it was one of the deciding factors in making me consider this type of bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf8DyAGWfZo

To be fair it was over priced and under specced at launch, but if you are willing to accept it’s a compromise between a road and mountain bike, not excellent at anything but OK as an all rounder then you won’t go far wrong.

I’ve had an aluminium frame and fork Bianchi flat bar hybrid with Alivio shifters and a deore mech, cable discs etc and now have a Charge Plug steel drop bar bike with Sora and cable discs. They both do the same job, just slightly differently, the Orange RX9 would do the same again. If you want one then go for it, it’ll probably be faster than your MTB due to a more efficient riding position etc.

That’s why I am trying to resist. As you say the introduction to it is cheap, but it soon becomes a money pit. If my old stuff sold for enough to cover the cost I’d buy one in a heartbeat, but it was nowhere near. Unsurprising really when I listed it for spares or repairs and you can get something this good for so little money. I was shocked that you could get something ready to run with a proper ladder chassis for this price.

If I still want one in a few months I might get one to play about with in the summer. Scale crawlers/trail trucks appeal as they look awesome, can be used almost anywhere and I could potentially use one when walking the dogs.

Sorry, I missed that reply. Yeah, that’s useful actually. I was looking at the Carisma Coyote around Christmas, but thought that the FTX Outback 2 offered better value. Now I am not so sure.

I didn’t make a lot selling on my old stuff so I am trying to forget about RC stuff, although I am tempted to buy a lunchbox and fit the old motor and radio gear from the drift car that didn’t sell, because  Lunchbox! We used to have a Lunchbox and Pumpkin about 20 years ago, well I still have it but it’s fairly broken and I suspect it will all be really brittle now too.

As above, eBay or a breaker. The Jimny is a popular car with a strong following, even a Suzuki/4×4 forum or facebook group should be able to turn up something, and it’s a lot easier than sourcing a new set of steel wheels and wheel nuts.

Northwind, I really fancy one of those crawlers, and have resisted buying one for about 4 months. Your pictures aren’t helping my willpower!

I sold my Hobao Hyper 10 chassis and Tamiya Mondeo for not much yesterday, but the drift car didn’t sell so I might play about with that. Or I might just leave it untouched for another couple of years…

Done

I’m following this with interest. I’ve the Plug 3, so made with Tange Infinity rather than the Tange Prestige, but I expect the frame dimensions to be very similar.

My personal experience is that the Voyager Hyper 35s (or 37s depending on which label you read) won’t work with guards without modifying the bosses on the bridges (I’ve not tried that). They fowled the guard and when I took the guards off but put the standard SKS bolts into the bosses the tyres contacted the bolt heads when inflated to 60 PSI. I’ve since bought some countersunk bolts, but am using the original 28mm slicks that the bike came with.

The Vittoria Adventure Trail 38 (or 40) fits with similar clearance to the Hyper Voyager.

The 26er hardtail (my only MTB) has had some Rebas from eBay, brakes from here, a new chain ring, cassette, chain and gear cable as they were all needing replacement. Hopefully it won’t cost me any more for a while.

The Charge Plug has had a change of tyres for different conditions, may need a headset soon but otherwise all good.

And I’ve spent more than I would like on accessories such as lights, hydration packs etc. All relatively small purchases but it adds up.

Always liked the Vaya, and at that price I would be tempted if I was buying now. Fortunately I like how my Charge Plug rides, so have no plans to change it any time soon.

I’d love a pony rustler, but can’t afford one any time soon.

The ride last weekend was like that. Yesterday’s was more focused on trying fight sidewinds and dodging hail storms. Man snow and hail really make your face sting. As others have said you were out, and suffering now will make spring and summer much better. Keep riding.

Drewd made one out of an old mini co2 bottle (disposable welding gas), a t piece, ball valve and bit of hose with a tyre inflator end.  You could do the same with a mini co2 fire extinguisher too.  I’ve got it here at the mo and used it to seat my tyres.  I’ll take a picture in a bit and show you.  If you’ve got anyone with empty mini extinguishers or welding bottles it’s a few quids worth of fittings from eBay to make it happen though and is far less likely to fail than a pop bottle.

I did make that, and it was inspired from a previous thread on here. It was easy enough to make with off the shelf parts, and they’re all designed for that purpose so it’s as safe as a DIY option can get. It’s more faff  to build than buying an airshot, but cheaper and it gave me something to do.

It was an Aldi one that I posted a link to. Had one in the garage for quite a while and it’s never let us down. Bought it in their sale and then got another one for in the camper. It’s 240v not 12v.

I also bought this based off of Tracey’s PSA. It’s good for what it is, and works very well, but it is really loud. I built the inflator because I felt a bit antisocial using the compressor in the back yard (I live in a mid terrace). That said the compressor is my fall back while the inflator is out on loan.

I’ve used the Philips Extreme and Osram Nightbreaker in H4, H1 and H7 variations. They transform poor headlights to good and good to great. They only last me a year or so but are worth the money for the increased light output in my mind.

Hi. So you signed up then. I can confirm he is a genuine real life person, and ticks many of the STW boxes.

I’ve also got the 25w Antex with the silicon lead. I’ve used it to repair a Kenwood Chef, a Marantz amp, solder headers on a Raspberry Pi and build an oscilloscope kit. It struggled with the BNC connector as it’s a large area to heat, but did manage it. It’s done everything else easily. It’s fine for that sort of work.

I’ve also got a gas iron from Aldi, which has been used on car wiring when I’ve not had access to mains electric. It does the job but the Antex iron is easier/nicer to use.

The iron SchrickVr6 linked to is tempting, but probably not essential for basic work. I’d consider it if my iron broke though.

Same as calipers. Some newer ones pull more cable than the older ones, but they should all work to some extent with road disc calipers.

To get that hot on such short descents the pads must be contacting the discs, either through unwanted rubbing or dragging the brake.

Is the rotor true, and are all fasteners secure?

<span style=”color: #444444; font-size: 16px;”>I had a set of hope vtwins. I suffered continual sticky pistons, leaks all over and couldn’t persuade a bike shop in London to rebuild them. If you want mine, you can have them for postage.</span>

If the op doesn’t want them I would be interested in them.

I have used the Acor/Juin tech brakes and like them. They’re better than the promax render r/avid bb5r cable brakes, but nowhere near as nice as full hydros on the mtb.

As mentioned above the Vittoria hyper voyagers are a good shout. Not officially tubeless but people have run them that way. I used tubes on the 35c, which come up large, and it was no slower than the 28c cheap kenda tyres my bike came with. 35c and 38c are £15 from the link above, good value for what they are.

http://Yongnuo EF YN 50mm F/1.8 1:1.8 Standard Prime Lens for: Amazon.co … https://www.amazon.co.uk › Yongnuo-E…

Does anyone have any experience with compatible non Canon lenses? It looks like the OP should be able to get an EFS 50mm F1.8 from ebay or Amazon for around £45. They review well but I have never used one. It looks like a good inexpensive lens to learn with.

I’ve been looking at them since launch. I am still tempted, but really in the position to buy a new bike.

I have seen that some Cannondale bikes use the 141mm QR standard, as do some of the Norco bikes. As has been mentioned boost hubs with QR end caps allow conversion too.

For the price they’re going for I think they’re worth considering, but the Pine Mountain 1 is also appealing due to having suspension, and the Genesis Tarn looks great too.

Ah right, that makes sense. It’s the same problem I have with my current forks, which are from 2007 I think. Not 100% sure as I bought the bike second hand.

I kind of hoped that the dual air system would improve on this a bit. I don’t ride very hard and am a light rider so hopefully the Rebas won’t be any worse than what I currently have.

Interesting reading here. I was under the impression that Rebas were well respected forks due to their reliability, ease of servicing and performance. All the reviews at the time used to rate them well and people on here always used to recommend them for general trail/XC duties.

As far as I am aware when someone asks which 100mm 1/8″ straight steerer fork for a 26er the default answer is a used Reba from the classifieds, yet there doesn’t seem to be much love for them on this thread.

Is a case of it was one of the better performers in that configuration? Or have things really moved on that much? Can something like a 2010 Reba dual air not be set up to perform anywhere near as well as a modern fork?

I’ve never ridden a Reba, but I have one that I am in the process of servicing to replace my dying Maguras. The only criticism I have of the Magura is the way they blow through their travel. They ride really nicely otherwise. They have better dampening than the Marzocchi Bomber Z1 XFly that I had before.

I like the look of the Ramin 3 but the reviews mentioned the seatpost can slip a lot. Charge should be launching their 2018 Cooker soon so I expect the 2017 Cookers to be reduced if they aren’t already.

Actually I bought two. The awesome truck hasn’t arrived yet but my cheapy 4×4 “crawler” (useless at crawling) arrived- one of these, for £12.24

I am liking the look of the awesome truck. I’ve seen the cheaper one you bought on Amazon, although not as cheap as you got it and they review fairly well.

I managed to resist buying anything, although the FTX Outback V2 is tempting.

I like Valeo but I’ve just priced them on Eurocarparts and they’re nearly £50 a set for the front!!!! I paid £26 off eBay last time I bought some.

Did you apply which ever discount code they had on their home page (currently XMAS17)? Never buy from Euro without using a discount.

Or, as said by GlennQuagmire try carparts4less. They’re the same company as Euro ang usually work out a bit cheaper. They currently have a 14% off sale with code WEEKEND14

I normally use Bosch too.

The Shimano 10 speed MTB shifters need a 10 speed rear mech. It won’t work with your 9 speed rear mech as the cable pull ratio is different.

Based on that have you considered going 11 speed?

They really don’t. I’m not sure why lecturers persist in saying this. Maybe if you get a really good set on a decent mount in a dark location and know what you’re looking at?

The observatory the uni have is out of town. It’s not in a dark sky area, but close to one and there isn’t much light pollution.

The lecturer said he uses them to teach students to navigate the sky, and recommended them as a starting point. I presume as he would know what he was looking for and where to look he could point the students in the right direction. I think this is why joining a local club can help.