i have used them, and still do. have had some good and bad experiences. They are bloody annoying when dropping pressures in the tyres coz eeven when i turn the tube to 10 or 2 it still leaks a fair bit out. for punctures i have had a few seal, normally i don’t realise i have had a problem till i find the tyre has lost a bit of pressure and then find the issue but my last two (which were glass) it didn’t seal and just coated the inside in the slime which make finding the cause of th puncture annoying. I will continue to run them, if i didn’t i’d have to change the tube so even if its only half the times they save me its still worth it for me.

Always ride with my glasses, even use clear lenses when its dark as i like having my eye sight… Offroad theres always random flies and on road theres always stones:S
Paranoid maybe… but for the sake of it.

octalink on mine, have raceface x-type on Kona but not used it yet so dunno how it will compare…

got a mate whose in the RAF, really enjoys it, but think you kinda have to have that style of life or be open to it, don’t think it would suit me, but on the plus side, he got the minimum alevels to get in and was told they’d happily sponser him to do just about any further qualifications so gives a good base should he ever leave. So your exact skills might not be instantly leading you to a role but your experience may be worth its weight in gold:)

i run 05 versions i think? random ebay purchase a few years back… might be a different year, thought they were really kewl with their black stanchions but never really set them up properly so can’t help, but never have them blow through there travel…

I dunno, If you are really happy with your call then why post for advice? If a friend of a friend sold me a bike i would kinda hope they would point out the bits that aren’t quite perfect, if it was a complete stranger then maybe would expect some hassle, but i dunno, i wouldn’t wana sell a shed, been done to me too many times and most of the time if you’re honest the buyer doesn’t mind knowing they have to replace x and y. I might be wrong but surely you’re asking if we think its ok to sell a bike thats not in decent working condition and not tell the seller? Hmmmm.
Caveat Emptor – isn’t that something you would say when advising someone who was going to a dealer known to do dodgy deals… I am not judging, just calling what i see..

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/loughborough
?

i maybe wrong here, but would it still not be faster to use that drive purely as a windows drive and then use the 640 for your porn collection and work, given that seek time is from head to head or something like that i believe, and so as you fill the drive up, the more seeking it will have to do, so if you have the 120 for windows and keep it defragmented it would still be quicker than the larger drive that had to seek around ?

Yeah agree with above… The admins will prob send it for auction so if its half decent then put in a cheeky offer and you never know!

I think it was all a lot of drama and an insult to those who suffer from this terrible illness without the glamour and without the support they deserve.

Dismantling a Free hub isn’t hard, just 48small ball bearings in the deore one i pulled apart which like to go around everywhere! but can get away with the above, but mine was covered in crap grease inside and so the things didnt’ engage as the grease was too sticky…

Just outta interest would this still work if you had cable routing that went under rear chainstay? typical rockhopper…. 🙁

how you do the old inner tube without ties? blu tack?

Hi,
I’ve just done this on my bike… 2007 Kona and so many of th bolts are going rusty, i mean its a mountain bike… did they not tthink it would be used outside! I just measured them with a ruler, measured the length of the threaded bit, and then the width (including the threads which as maybe a mm) I was going to buy the packs off ebay but would have left me with loads of random spares and cost a bit, found a sller called “boltmeup” who has priced for individual bolts and seems good pricing and its much cheaper than anywhere i could find online, and is for A2 stainless steel botls…

thank you:) am always a bit cautious to makers websites as they aren’t as open as sometimes i would like, so nice to know!

ehy;re doing a new version for many reasons, vista has bad rep even tho it is really a nice system so need to get rid of the repuatation. Windows 7 is recommended and is based on a lot of vista. Minor tweaks rather tan new core. Windows will work without virtual memory…. you can disable it…
I would honestly try and get some hardward testing done, maybe download some tests off the nett like the pi cpu test, make sure something isn’t wrong there!

I would go with a fresh reinstall, i have a machine with a lower spec that is fine, so maybe a fresh install and then just be sure to update everything.

could be a number of issues… data off is normally easy… recovery console and a usb stick is prob the easiest if its being silly. I would start with simple checks… if it hangs in safe mode? if it hangs in bios? to diag is its hardware or software issues. Try going into windows setup, don’t actually setup but see if it hangs. Then let us know, easier then! could be either from here.

Hi,
I’m in Edinburgh studying but normally live in wilford, Vdubber care to share any wisdom on good routes? I have ventured out from ruddington park along the gotham trail

they would need the race for the bearings to run against, without them the bearing have nothing to press against…

Erm… not meaning to be an arse…. but your asking on a biking forum for medication advice? Go back to your GP! or at least a pharmacist!

ok, kinda makes sense, does anyone tend to use slime? i use it in my inner tubes and also have the slime tyre liner things the extra weight to me makes sense given they protect me from punctures or am i wrong? can anyone say they;ve noticed a difference in resistance from different tyres?
sorry
just struggling to understand a substantial difference…

thanks, I dunno how to define my riding… currently live in ed and so normally road or singletrack i suppose, but not really bog.

depends on experience in a canoe, and then canadian… if you’re carrying a bit of kit going to be a big canoe and if you’re not experienced going to find you’re not as efficient as you think as you’ll be paddling against each other more. Also depends on if its a river? if its fast flowing. But i would say not impossible, just not likely.

wheels travel at the same speed as the rest of the bike

Your wheels may “travel” at the same speed as your bike but the two are different, one is normal velocity and the other is angular velocity…

wrong. It affects the difficulty of changing the direction of the wheels

I will think you’ll find that acceleration is a vector not a scalar quantity and therefore changing direction is an acceleration regardless of whether the speed (the scalar quantity has changed)
Losing the weight depends on where its from, if its from the hub as said, this wouldn’t make a massive effect on te gyroscopic forces but obviously would still reduce the weight of the bike, if its from the rims then this would be more useful. Obviously as well as possibly reducing strength if material has been removed, there is also the fact that gyroscopic forces are useful in maintaining the rubber side down position given they make you more stable…
Tbh given i weigh about half a car i can’t say i would notice such a thing but if it makes you happy!

Sorry? but your weight is spread over a smaller area? have you seen how big your contact area on your tyres is? I would be hard pushed to believe that that is equal never mind bigger than the contact area of a pair of shoes, also ignoring the fact that in wet conditions you’re going to spin the wheels and thus dig the ground more… and also that walkers would be hard presed to follow in one anothers footprints exactly yet bikrs are likely to follow the same route. I think a cycle is going to be more destructive on an exposed mud track like ontop of the hills.

well i was thinking proper strip…. I stripped the deore down as the prongs weren’t engaging and when i did all the silly bearings fell out but replacements were only £1 for 100 (it only needs 52 in total) from lbs.

You could have a resistor in there, making a potential divider to sort out the voltage, i believe the cree is normally ran at 3.7Volt, (maybe wrong) but what you need is a buck puck…
to bow out i would suggest http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=124
but i wouldn’t directly drive it…

what actually goes on them? i stripped a Deore hub down otther week and looked like its replaceable… i know XTR is going to be a million miles different but is it not replaceable stuff? how does the xtr work?

Square taper are more an old style with the newr isis, octalink or HT styles, the idea is that the newer styles have more contact points to spread the stresses on the crank arms, allowing lighter arms and the like, you can still get squaer taper and they do a good job (was the standard for many years) if you wanted to upgrade to one of the other types then you would have to change your chainset (£££) there are going to be different levels of square taper, tho not as many as their once was, they might be different due to bearing types(sealed, cartridge, loose) but generally i would say stick with it for the price and maybe if you get to the point of thinking of changing your chainset, then might be the point to considr upgrading..

There are people on ebay who buy and sell i suppose anywhere theres a chance for money it will happen, TBH given the large size of this forum its never going to have true community spirit… I am grateful to those who are kind when considering their sales prices, its just seems a little at odds, that we have a forum where people will offer help and advic no end but then deprive you of something you might need for the sake of a Fiver….

my local didn’t charge for new forks, for me to be annoyed it would depend on different things, if your bike is new and in good condition and the shop wasn’t busy then i would expect it but otherwise i wouldn’t, if they’re just standing around it would be nice.

I am a newbie here… i found this place by looking for ads and this place seems to hav such a high turnover…
The site is great and i can’t contrib a lot to most of the bike chat as i’m not that knowledgeable and so personally would had something where thres a minimum post count, sites with that tend to increase random crap posting! or force noobs to make comments they shouldn’t!
From my view the wanted ads are just as good as the for sale as i think they given people a chance to unearth items not for sale yet but maybe they could be moved once the item has been found? maybe an archive? for items that have been sold and items that are no longer, purely as personally i find old ads given an idea of prices and of feedback on sellers.
I am new but i do find the constant bumping a little annoying… Its bound to happen but when its days apart i can live with it, but theres time i have seen an ad bumper 4-5 times in a day and this means when you come to look through the ads you’re seeing a mixtures of fresh ads and the same ads you saw 2 hours ago! The idea to stop it soted by recent post would be amazing and ttake away some of that hassle. I would certainly sign up to a yearly site supporter system, with maybe some sort of premium ad? My grounds wouldn’t be to generate profit for ST tho i am sure tey deserve it but more to control the classifieds a little and stop the randomness of it…

And after that massive ramble… ON the search function.. does it have a time limit? i search for items for sale and i feel i’m never getting a full answer, i searched for “frame” expecting pages and pages of stuff but got maybe 20-30 results? am i missing something?

i used to be told that Lx was more reliable given its slighty heavier and not as weight important, so unless your trying to shed weight it might not be bad to consider?
If some who promotes XT can tell me the exact difference that would be interesting?

agree with Samuri…. if someone honestly wants your bike they will get it end of….
if its worth so much get it indoors? or inside a bike garage.
If its outside, then keep the chain off the ground, so if it runs through and anchor make sure its not on the ground as gives a solid surface to work on. have multiple items, even if they are simpler than the main, increases required tooling, have something like a piece of cotton running to a stack of metal so it rattles if someone pulls on it, simple things… Make it a hard target and your average dude will walk away… if its professional then tbh you prob dont wana mess with them!

ermm i saw a pair of these forks on a bike that rode by me in the street, next time i see the guy should i rugby tackle him? i’m wih richpips as well, i know your prob annoyed at your loss but come on at least need evidence.. I’m a geeky person and forever getting asked to sell stuff for people that i know nothing about! your evidence that thse forks might be stolen is that they are the same model as some you’ve lost but then you make a point of the fact you never said they were yours?