First ride? :roll:

Urge all mountain for me. But depends on the fit though,no adjustment as such just different pad thickness. Love mine :mrgreen:

Out tonight,hopefully with a little frozen ground instead of all the mud we normally get. First season of night riding for me.Try to do two night rides a week it’s brilliant.Been working nights for the last few years so obviously no riding. Even the simple stuff is good, especially with a covering of leaves to hide things / spice things up. It’s a must do with the price and quality of the Chinese lights( batteries and chargers aside)these days.For any night virgins,get out and enjoy.You won’t regret it :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Give the badge a good rub down and finish with satin black rattle can. Worked well for me.Looking good Btw

Brake hoses and cables too long just as they were before the refurb. The head badge would look better black especially if going with black decals. Ps don’t buy the cheap ones on Ebay they are rubbish. The X King will be good in the muddy season 8O

Plus one for Conti Baron black chilli. Loving it in the gloop we have at the moment run tubeless at 25 psi. Clears mud well,very good on wet rocks and roots. Not as fast rolling as my Conti Rubber Queens but much better as a winter tyre. Not cheap mind :roll:

My 2010 5 Spot



Love the bike,been a good friend. Now running a few different bits but mostly like this.

rickon, have you tried changing bushes? They are a tight interference fit held in position when you torque up the socket cap head screws. They can’t move. The wear is caused by dirt ingress. The zerks are fine if they are the screw in type simply pre fill the air space between the top hat bushings with grease before assembly rotating the shaft to ensure that grease gets down the grooves. It’s a very basic design which requires a clean( strip and re grease)when running in normal filthy UK riding conditions.

Should come off quite easily,spray a little Wd40 or similar and let it soak in.Then put the shaft in a vice with some thin cardboard around it if you are re using it and give it a tap. I would use a hammer and aluminium drift rather a plastic mallet, the plastic mallet tends to bounce.A little grease when reassembling will prevent it happening again.The one that is at a slight angle you could tap down first this might help release it.When I did mine it came apart very easily. The wear on the inner face is the same as mine, just dirt getting behind the soft plastic yellow seal combined with the grease from the pivot forming a grinding paste 8O

Waiting for this to be delivered 8)

Again not a cheap option,but you only live once :wink:

Hi, Had these done.Can pass on details if you wish. Based in the USA,mega quality. Whatever you dream up he can make :lol:
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They are quite waterproof,BUT if you are wearing shorts the water runs down your legs and fills the shoes up. Much to the amusement of my riding buddies on Saturday on a very wet ride. The water stays inside, resulting in mucho squelching. Some form of trousers with sealskins would be the answer. By the way they clean up and dry very well.Better than Teva mids, Karver’s which took all week. Not much grip from the sole if its very muddy, but they grip the pedals like a leech.I like em :D

Doh!!! too many post Saturday ride beers. Depends where you start. From Wath back to Pateley is all road as far as I know. Sorry

Mag Issue 83 is the place to look. Called the Nidderdale Route. First time I rode it was recommended by the good guys at Stif. That time we ran on the road towards Lofthouse/ Middlesmoor. Look out for Grindstone Hill on your map,that’s were you need to be. On the final descent into Ramsgill :mrgreen: :mrgreen: you can turn left and follow the bridleway back to Wath,with the river on your right. Proper ride :D

Start at the small car park at Wath on the road to Middlesmoor. You can use the bus shelter to change in if the weather is normal :roll:
Follow the route from Singletrack Mag. Quality ride.

Yellow is fastest :lol:

916g for standard 885g for the Element.So lighter.About the same comfort wise but you stay drier.

Not at all mikey, much better than the Karvers’s. Much lighter, slimmer and feel better on the pedals.Your feet don’t stick out as much so less chance of catching ankles.Mine used to rub on the chainstays :( You won’t miss the weight of wet Karvers 8O After Monday nights wet ride I left them on a tiled floor not near a radiator and they were dry in the morning :D Just a quick wipe down required.

Had some for a couple of weeks.They are much better than my other 5 tens. Freeriders and deceased Karvers. Dry much quicker than both. Karvers took all week. Very easy to wipe clean and seem to shrug off water,the finish is slightly shiny. BUT as with all shoes the water hits your legs and runs down inside.Not tried with sealskins yet. Better than Teva Link mids as well. I like em 8) Grip flats like a good un, but slippy on muddy hike a bike. Oh and both colours come with spare black laces

Looked myself. Wanted one to pair with a Ust Rubber Queen on the rear.They go up fine tubeless,one small leak each side which the latex sorted. got the Bc version which seems good so far was running 28 to 30 psi but much better at 25 psi :-)

Wow, ran them tonight on a local loop. Very wet and muddy with the pressure dropped to 25 psi. Totally different feel to our rocky ride on Saturday,wet greasy through the woods .Would consider a rear as well but think it might be draggy on the climbs. Going to repair the Rq for a ride in Gunnerside at the weekend. Loose and flinty think the Rq will be perfect for that :D Thanks for your help guys :lol:

Northwind, running tubeless on Stans Crest. Rq was 2.2 so the Baron I think is a little smaller. Seems to ping off rocks whereas the Rq was very stable. Persevere or repair the Rq?

Tuesday night.Doh!!! Big hole in my front Ust rubber Queen which the latex refused to seal :cry: Gave my last tube to a mate the previous Saturday. Double Doh!!!

Agree with all above, been tubeless for two years. However you can still puncture, got a big hole in a Ust Rubber Queen on tuesday night which the Stans could not fix. Went to get an emergency tube from my camelback only to remember I gave the last one to a buddy last Saturday. Since replenished my emergency stock and got a tubeless repair string thingy. If it’s a big ride I still take two tubes just in case.Have you got the valve with a removable centre? Much easier to put the latex in with, but you need the valve core removal tool as well.Tubeless is brilliant but you still need a back up for a long ride. I use a Co2 cartridge to seat the tyre then let the air out put latex in and pump with track pump.

Still sore but riding.Took me two weeks before a gentle ride but knew about it afterwards.Hurt my foot as well/motorcycle accident this time.Sneezing was worse than coughing for me.Rode tuesday night/out Saturday local then Gunnerside Gill next Saturday.Hope it’s not the same for you but my ribs were worse :? after week two when sneezing and coughing. The finger is still sore seven months in.

How long since was the accident? The pain from ribs when sneezing 8O :evil: It’s a month since I did mine,they get worse before they get better.Broke a finger in two places earlier this year, tried to ride after three weeks but took six in the end starting out very cautiously. Depends on your pain threshold, the doc said I couldn’t do do any more damage so I gave it a go. See how you feel :lol:

Had a look on Google search, loads of photos on there that might help. MTBR web site also has some info with photos on. In the forums section is one dedicated to Pivot. Hope this is of some use :-)

PePPeR, now you do. Happening on my I pad :(

Hi Renton,agree with Ben, the powder coaters normally use a high temp blue masking tape. How old is your frame? My 2010 Turner has grease nipples that screw in, some earlier ones are push fit. If there is a slot in its a clue. They And all the plastic bushes MUST come out before powder coating. The heat will melt the grease which will contaminate the finish. The bottom bracket,headtube,seat tube and all the bush faces (frame and swingarm) need masking. The shock mount areas are Ok without. The colour is up to you, wanted a light blue on mine but they didn’t have it so went for yellow which looks sweet. Thought about new decals? If I had it done again I think I would have it clear lacquered as well. Can Email you some pics if you want :-) if you want any more help give me a shout

Doh !!!!!!! Double post

Yeh,all Ust are black chilli. Mega tyre, they have a chilli logo moulded on the tread and should say hand made in Germany on the sidewall . Enjoy :lol:

Awesome video,and agree with PrinceJohn. That would deffo be worth watching :mrgreen:

Ahhhhh, the Racesport have paper thin sidewalls that’s what my X Kings were.The cords on the sidewalls were visible after one ride in Nidderdale :|

Run the front @ 25 ish rear depends on conditions. Run tubeless on Stans so no pinch flats anyway

No that heavy, weighed mine in @ 760g. They roll pretty well too. Best tyre I’ve tried. The MK 2.4 is 680g or 880g UST 8O

I ran a pair of 2.4 X Kings on my Turner and destroyed them in less than a month.Replaced them with 2.2 UST Bc Rubber Queens,obviously the X Kings rolled faster but the RQ is in a different league alltogether.Fantastic all rounder :wink: Can’t comment on the MK as not tried them. By the way the 2.2 RQ is bigger than the 2.4 X King so plenty of protection and grip in the rocky stuff.

All the info for Triple S is available on their website. Prices,colour charts etc :wink:
Here’s one they did for me.

Move the lever to the open position, underneath it is a grub screw. Screw it in until the lever is as tight as you require. Simples 8)

Disconoir, it’s powder coated. Triple S in Bingley did the deed. Glad you like it.

Here’s mine :D
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Saddle now changed to Fizik Gobi. Love the bike,brilliant allrounder