thought of another negative… they drop value like crazy. i mean silly silly depreciation.

That’s a positive. Means they are dirt cheap SH

Trouble is, few other vehicles can carry what the Sedona can and none are as good value.

Exactly the way I see it. I drive busses for a living so handling and performance can be dire and still be a step up from the day job.

An Eberspacher or Webasto heater is what you need, used in campervans for heating and and can be set to turn on with a timer. Not cheap though !

+1

Got my 04 SE for £2k with 60k on the clock. Cambelt change at 60k, £500 at a garage as officially the engine needs to come out. Did mine following a guide I found online which doesnt need the engine out just suspended on an A frame, remove a driveshaft and wedge it over with a block of wood and theres just enough room to get in. It’s unlikely you could convince a garage to do it that way.

Bitepoint is really low. Heard of problems with cheap replacement clutches being a little thick and so not fully disengaging. Check for oil leaks off the gearbox as they can crack if it’s had a hard towing life.

Gearchange is sloppy on them all. Getting 35mpg local, low 40’s on a run over 70mph high 40’s under. Autos are 10% worse IIRC. I’m 6ft4 and can sit comfortably in all the seats. Seats are a bit heavy to take out so we leave the back row out only putting it in when we know were going to carry 5 or 6 peeps. Take out one of the middle seats to fit 3 bikes with wheels on. Add a 4 bike towbar rack for 4 people and bikes in comfort. Could even 5at a squeeze for an Alps trip/biking weekend. Add a bike trailer and roofbox and 6 is on the cards.

OEM roofbars arnt strong enough for a box so you need to buy proper bars. Can sleep in the back with a couple of bikes with all seats out. Got an old memoryfoam mattress I’ve cut up to make two singles that fit. Add a driveaway tent for proper camping trips. Seperate rear heater/aircon controls are great. Everything is pretty basic compared to mainstream cars of the same period but it all works well enough. Love the space between the seats for putting bags etc. Means everythings handy on a run and rear passengers can really stretch out if the need to.

The leather is the SE is worth having however a set just went through eBay unsold at £200 so not a dealbreaker.

Thinking of fitting an Eberspacher under the drivers seat.

Check the sliding doors on both side run free.

Aspect and resolution.

Watched through once.

Who would be in charge if no-one had been before and you all have a copy of the same map?

Didn’t know there was a professional towbar fitting qualification.

Where do you now stand if it really is a group of mates hiring a chalet together and a couple of them have ridden the area before. Do the ones who have been before become ‘guides’ because they know their way round?

Joypad/Autoaim :Shakes head:

I may be slow but..
if you dont fail one of hundreds of tests taken at random and at the time and place of choice of the tester then i draw one conclusion.
At the time of those tests you did not have any of the prohibited drugs drugs they can test for at the time etc present.

ftfy

No naked riding is a pretty standard condition.

Both are pretty immune to rain until the bridges get washed out.

20+32 = < 50

52 is equal or less than 50. PMSL

Finals on Red Bull TV[/url]

If you have stack height issues then a e13 zero stack reducer in the bottom sorts that out. Takes a CaneCreek standard internal bearing. Crown sits pretty flush. Got one in my Prophet (1.5″ HT) to reduce the stack height for running 160mm forks, only about 15mm heigher than 130mm forks and an external bearing 1.5″ headset.

You would gave to be up early to beat the unofficial bike ban, and careful with the weather on snowdon.

As mentioned above, the volunatry agreement starts on Rangers Path at the point the official bridleway turning to Bwlch Maesgwm (Telegraph path) turns left. The BW is non existent on the ground as most people walk/ride/push up the public footpath just short of the gate as its an easier gradient. This does start above the limit of the voluntary agreement but only by a 100m or so. On the off chance anyone has a problem with you riding up to the gate then tell them your going over to Llanberis and leave them to it.

And when the cost of a download is the same a a cd, which has to be manufactured,distributed and displayed in a shop, or posted to your door, its pretty clear they are trying to exploit the consumer.

When the cost of a d/l is almost 4 times higher than buying online then they are definitely ttp. (Dirt 3 for PC £29.99 on steam £7.80 delivered new from Amazon) Got F1 2011 for £10 at the same time plus Crysis 2 for £8 from Play.

No one would complain if there was a shop selling giving away telling people where they could find stolen goods fake goods at the end of their road that was shut down even if some of the stuff they told you about sold gave away was legitimate?

FTFFY

If you only ever ride man made trail centres, then you’ll not understand what difference a good tyre can make in less than ideal surfaces, or on a multitude of different surfaces all on the same ride.

Larsen TT front and rear or with a Minion up front covers me for trailcenter and rocky riding year round. Add a HR on the rear for muddy riding when the drag isnt as important.

Hence the Minion up front for pretty much everything else and a HR out back for natural winter riding. duh! Find the Minion is overkill much tyre for most trailcenters on the Prophet.

Tend to run a combo of Screams/Swampies and HR’s on the DH bike but that wasnt the OP’s question, the way I read it he wanted something that sat between Aspens and Ardents which incedentally is the combo I currently have on the 456.

Exactly. Hardpack surface, suspension and technique deal with the bumps.

VERY VERY brave, unless you only ride BMX tracks! On the rear fine, but up front… No thanks!

.
Most trailcenters are just big BMX tracks.

Larsen TT front and rear or with a Minion up front covers me for trailcenter and rocky riding year round. Add a HR on the rear for muddy riding when the drag isnt as important.

Whichever is LLU.your exchange is still just ADSL Max.

Most common cause of this problem IIRC is topping up the reservoir whilst bleeding the brakes with part worn pads. This leaves too much fluid in the system so the pads wont go back far enough.

Use it for road rides in new places. Paper map backup offroad where getting lost has bigger consequences.

We’re there already really with the likes of V+ and Sky + and on-demand services.

Been there since the telephone exchanges got upgraded to ADSL.

Would quite happily cancel the Sky and TV license if it was just me but the Mrs watches tons of rubbish stuff.

Nicolai ION 20 or ION 18

180 for days where you earn your descents/pedally tracks and 203mm for uplifts and the Alps.

Helius AFR if you want to run a twin ring setup.

I use a Prophet with AM wheels, a longer stroke shock and offset bushes to get it to play nice and slack with 160mm coil forks, I can also use lighter 130/140mm air forks with the original shock and spacers with a lighter set of wheels and tyres as an all day bike as the manufacturers intended.

AM setup 34lb
XC setup around 30lb

2 bikes from 1 build but due to it being a trail frame and me being 18st I have to be shy away from the bigger DH jumps/drops. It would be fine landing properly but it wouldnt take me landing badly too often but thats what a DH bike is for.

Have to admit I also have a HT for proper epic day rideshich is where the shorter forks and lighter wheels normally live.

As mentioned above, if you can carry the weight/downhill is the fun bit for you then a 6″ bike like the Mega/Alpine 160 would be the way to go. If you enjoy climbing as much as descending and longer days in the saddle I’d go for a slightly lighter 5 style bike.

Conveniently ignoring loads of real world issues like body roll, reduced inner wheel grip and no limited slip diff, using the outer kerb for a little extra grip etc then

Work out the force required to go round the roundabout at 10m/s then take that away from the maximum grip to find out how much grip you have left for accelerating perpendicular to the radius. F=ma etc

Depends on so many things, how heavy you are, how smooth you are, how big you go, uplifts?, which tracks, how long are your all day rides, fit enough and willing to drag a bigger bike all the way round.

Will you run a second set of wheels, adjustable forks. Are you willing/mechanically competent enough to be switching shocks, offset spacers, forks.

Ardent/Aspen on the HT for longer rides in the summer with a bit of tarmac linking sections. Wouldnt recommend the Aspen for battering through rough sections but it rolls extremely well for a high volume tyre with predictable grip on the sides for cornering.

I’m 18st and find Wire on 2.35’s run at 35+ psi fine for most riding on the 6″ bike. They seem to be more tear resistant than the folding versions, a fair bit cheaper and they inflate much better if tubeless is your thing.

I use a Larsen 60a on the rear all year for trail centre riding plus dry natural trails in the summer or riding on predominantly rocky trails, switch up to a HR as soon as it gets a bit soft with a Swampy for the wettest of natural riding.

Front is ST Larsen (Dry trailcentre), Minion (dry/soft Natural and wet manmade trails) or Swampy (Wet natural).

They take me about an hour from rideable bike to rideable bike with plenty of coffee slurps Lee.

V6 is still going strong in the Design Ed as well btw, cheers.

On a HT I would suggest a DH tube in the rear run at 30ish psi rather than a xc one at 40, the extra give will make a huge difference to how much fun you will have on the descent.

Need ten year old trailmap.

i5 Barebones
120Gb SSD Drive
Sapphire 6870 Graphics
+Monitor, Blueray drive and Xbox controller comes out at around £700

Most of the old stuff is still there Klunk. You just need to remember where it is.

That would be the ‘just before the lights the car behind me was so close/looking to squeeze past I didnt think it was safe to stop quickly enough’ defense.

They are looking to set up a bidding war. How much do you want it?

120Gb SSD drive ordered. Fed up with joining BF3 after the round has started. :(

Built my current PC mainly for BF3.

i5 2400
4Gb Ram
Radeon 6870
h67 Mobo

A balanced mid range setup.

BF3 id is MTBDoug

Cameras, points. Some of the money saved used to reward good drivers.