Do any of you tubeless riders find yourselves compromising on tyre choice, especially in winter, because you can’t be arsed with the faff of swapping tyres around to suit conditions?

Two sets of Superstar wheels bought whenever thay have a clearance sale on. The AM and DH rims work very well with a rim strip. 110kg and currently have 2.4MtnKing Prtcn/2.2RQUST on the AM rims and 2.5 Michelin UST’s on the DH rims all run at around 35-40psi. I’ve also run Ardents, Minions, Swampies and various Michelins in the past. Only puncture that hasnt self sealed has been rips in the tyre that would have taken out a tube as well and fixed with the external repair kit already mentioned, only had to pump back up from 20psi which was a bonus.

Replaced some 2013 CTD’s with some 07 Zocchi AM2’s till I can find some coil Lyriks. Fox’s have been donated to the Mrs towpath bike as they feel like theres a wormhole bridging the middle 2 inches of travel! It looks like it’s there but the forks traverse through it FTL.

Just received a mail today inforing me that the booking is now cancelled, my deposit is to be returned, and there is now zero accommodation to be found anywhere.

Name and shame!

Have a set of these on my HT. The XC’s are run with 2.1 Crossmarks with no problems apart from a the odd pinchflat. Any bigger and I use the other set I bought with AM rims run tubeless.

Got 4 pairs laced to DH/AM/XC and CX rims. No problem buying again especially at the current pair of wheels prices. As IA, you need to be able check the spoke tension correctly before your first ride as the tension when you first get them can be hit and miss. 2 pairs were spot on but two needed attention.

Had the same problem with the lower CC40 bearings in my Canyon. Swapped them out to nukeproof bearings from CRC and havnt had a problem. Got a Nukeproof headset for the Mrs Mmmbop on the back of that.

Nukeproof replacement 36/45 bearings for the 40 and nukeproof are pretty cheap, £9 delivered from CRC and mine have lasted well after being packed in grease from new. I think CC do the usual US dry market lack of proper grease thing. Superstar also do spare bearings (Type4) a little cheaper but there’s the usual minimum postage.

If the lower headtube size is 49mm as pine says above then zero stack with 1.5″ steerer is out of the question. Theres just not enough room inside the headtube to fit the steerer and bearing.

Had the same problem with the lower CC40 bearings in my Canyon. Swapped them out to nukeproof bearings from CRC and havnt had a problem. Got a Nukeproof headset for the Mrs Mmmbop on the back of that.

Nukeproof replacement 36/45 bearings for the 40 and nukeproof are pretty cheap, £9 delivered from CRC and mine have lasted well after being packed in grease from new. I think CC do the usual US dry market lack of proper grease thing. Superstar also do spare bearings (Type4) a little cheaper but there’s the usual minimum postage.

6ft4 on a Large with a 90mm stem. Was definitely playful AM bike rather than XC trail, ran it with 160mm travel both ends.

As Z1ppy says check the lower cup and bearing size on your current headset. You may find it’s a 1.5″ lower headset with a reducer crown to run your current 1.1/8th fork so you will only need to buy a proper 1.5″ crown for a couple of quid.

OK, so if it’s hundreds, tens and units, what is the name of the place value of the first number after a decimal point called if it’s not tenths.

Nukeproof 44/56 IISS @ £45.

Takes the same 36/45 bearings as the 40 plus you can also use the Nukeproof reducer crown to run an older straight 1.1/8th steerer in the same frame without changing headsets whilst the usual fork is in for service or to run a lighter trail fork and heavier AM/Alps fork.

Quick left right indicator or hazards if their handy. No hands removed from bars and pretty obvious. Might even get you noticed by someone further up the road.

I fixed mine by buying something else and putting the Crossrides on the Mrs bike for towpath use.

Tayna.[/url]

Yay they finally doing what Playstation Steam have done the last few years for nearly a decade.

ftfy

Also forgot to mention, the file needs to be called user.cfg

Can I have a P please Bob?

Forgot to mention MTBDoug on Origin.

Not had time to play BF4 half as much as BF3 so left it whilst they ironed out the worst of the problems.

60fps on low is the minimum I’d be aiming for. Any higher detail hinders enemy spotting. Getting the highest fps your monitor can handle really helps with training hand eye co-ordination due to less video lag between frames. Playing on a large 120Hz monitor is super smooth but bike parts come first!

If you’ve got an old second monitor lying around seriously consider hooking it up and using it to display a full size map instead of the minimap.

Add a custom cfg file to your main BF4 folder to show fps ingame, remove suppression blur etc..

WorldRender.TransparencyShadowmapsEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurQuality 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMaxSampleCount 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapEnable 0
WorldRender.LightTileCsPathEnable 0
PostProcess.DynamicAOEnable 0
PerfOverlay.DrawFps 1
GameTime.MaxVariableFps 60
WorldRender.PlanarReflectionEnable 0

Eye candy is all well and good until it hinders gameplay!

Pedantry = STW

Never had a problem wuith co2 myself however I only seat it with co2 then let down to 15-20 psi and inflate to 40psi with a track pump 3 or 4 times. Solves the sealant drying out problem. CO2 is fine to seat a tyre on the trail to get you home as long as you have the valve at the top of the wheel so as not to blow cold co2 directly onto the sealant.

Ceiriog Valley route off edgecycleworks[/url] routes page? Add a trip up Vivod towards the end if the weathers good.

My cheap and chearful combined music and AV system consists of Kef Concerto Ones ~2000 as main speakers, 4 KEF Cresta 2’s and a Cresta C of a similar age as center, sides and surround plus a bottom end KEF Sub to help out the extremely vocal Concertos below 80Hz all run off a relatively new Yammy RX-V673. System has been chopped and changed over the years but currently adds up to ~£650 due to new amp but SH speakers locally off eBay over a few years.

I’m 6ft4 and can recommend going for very wide ~850mm on the bars which keeps them in proportion to average riders on 777’s etc. Also helps to give a little more cockpit room just mind the trees.

2nd set of wheels with Wet Screams fitted?

S3 Mini for £150ish.

What has Western got to do with it?

Did I miss the name change?

On a world scale, britain England might be considered tolerant, but compared to the rest of western Europe, I find that common attitudes towards other nationalities are quite poor.

FTFY. All your neighbours have a single country to be a focus of their intolerance and for that I thank you!

Got a Kia Sedona. Heard all the horror stories but got it cheap enough (2K for a 54 plate with 60k on the clock) not to worry about them. Run perfectly for the 18months weve had it. It is basically a van, with windows, seats and carpet which is good for us as it that’s how it gets treated.

Theyre both rubbish with a joypad ;)

CRC have the 2013 Cube Cross Race disc at £930 instead of £1300 for extra tall riders.

That was the MX Darren. Some of the newer 4X Prophets had them as well.

Not so much a club but a decent bunch of folk who like riding bikes in beautiful North Wales:
http://northwalesmtb.proboards.com/

Definitely a friendly bunch. Always made welcome even though I’m a very irregular rider.

+1 Mawddach. Start from the Doll end and cross the footbridge for fish and chips in Barmouth before returning.

If there was a radio license I’d happily buy one.

B&W license?

Canyon Nerve AM/AL+

160mm forks, 200*57mm rear shock in the XC setting with offset bushes and ~30% sag. Adds at most half a degree to the head angle compared to a stock 200*50 at 25% sag in the FR setting but turns a good trail bike into a great Gravity Enduro/Alps ride.

http://www.paisleyfreight.com/

Your bike travel is irrelevant when finding out which spacer to use. You use the shock length, stroke and current aircan as Loco says. Did the shock come with the bike and if so what bike is it? Will be able to work out what you can use from there. Also, is there a spacer already in the shock?

Uphill?