I don’t know what it was meant for but I found it a great for mounting a device I knocked up in work to stop the chain dropping off the granny ring when I ran a 36/22 combo. It was like a e type mech backing plate but used that bolt on the frame to add stiffness.

IIRC Sim had Crossmarks on last year and seemed to be pleased with the choice.

Number 22. Cotic soul with Maxxis LUST 3.35 HighRollers.

I could be in for a long walk……

That walk looks highly likely and very long with tyres that big. 8O

They’ll be back next year once Mr. Hill & the Dog have created a bit more interest.

Wayfarer/Berwyn ride from Llandrillo.

2.35 Swampy/Minion DHR combo for those loose off trail excursions to get round people walking the fun sections.

Pont Scethin, Cadair Idris or the old Pink Beasty @CyB.

Prophets are nice and long in the top tube. I’m 6’4″ and ride a L with a 410mm seatpost so XL should suit you fine even with a short stem.

Order tyres Thursday, arrived yesterday. Maybe you are on their fast delivery blacklist.

06 AM2’s with TAS to lower them permanently to 130mm and ETA for the climbs.

Tape also helps with loose fitting problem tyres.

A layer of thin foam insulation tape between the rim and the 20″ tube makes getting the tyre to seat a breeze on rims with a deep centre like XM/EN321’s.

Any of the Maxxis DUST tyres.

Conti Grand Prix. Going by recent F1 races, just the name should bring a deluge to wherever you’re riding.

http://www.rapiddescentscotland.co.uk/index.php

What everyone above says and another big thumbs up. I’m 18st and have always struggled . These are in a league of their own. When you first fit them it takes a while to adapt the power and stop yourself grabbing the brakes.

At list price they are great value. £120 an end from CRC was just ridiculously cheap for so much brake, no wonder they ran out.

Rapid Rise would have been nice. ;)

waiting for the fork to die so I can get a pike

You may be waiting a while.

You need to screw the QR adjuster in a bit. This is found at the other end to the QR lever.

Or maybe it’s fecked.

What phone is it?

I’ve aquired quite a few mechs over the years that were being chucked away because of this. As has been mentioned, vice and socket to remove the bolt, scrape the rubbish of the bush, a bit of sanding, regrease and asssemble. Hey presto, one fully functioning mech.

The biggest problem I have is the price of replacement jockey wheels. 8O

Unlike the AM1’s you can play with the oil level in the right leg to change alter their bottom out resistance once you’ve found the amount of air you need to get the sag right. Higher oil reduces the air volume when compressed which helps to stop them bottoming. If your not achieving full travel then you can lower the oil level to get a similar increase in stroke.

I run a top swing mech. I had to cut a bit of the size adapter to get it to fit lower down the seattube. It works well enough with a double and bash if you move the chainline out a couple of mm which is what you should be doing anyway once you ditch the big ring.

Don’t listen to anyone who hasn’t raced there as they will all be waffling on about the built trails with no knowledge of the routes previous races were run.

The usual XC race route has quite a few sections that cut through the trees that are pretty rooty / natural peat based. Although they don’t make up a huge percentage of the track which is usually a load of fireroad they do require a little grip. I wouldn’t go for a semi slick however tempting it is for the fireroad/hardpack sections. As mentioned before something similar to a FireXC or Trailblaster works well overall having pretty good straight line speed but a bit of grip on the sides for the natural forest trails. They may however change the course completely and route it down built sections so take some semi’s and recce the course just in case.

Berwyn & Wayfarer from either Llandrillo or Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog. Can be easily extended on the Glyn Ceiriog side to include either the Pheasant track over to Glyn Ceiriog or The Lawnt descent to the south of LDC.

GPX

If it’s to do with safety make wearing them compulsory. If it’s to do with saving some insurance company cash don’t make it compulsory but reduce the amount of a claim if no helmet is worn.

Yup. Remeber how muddy the Offa’s Dyke bridleway was in winter from the road up to the forest before they put the boardwalks in. 8O

The descent down to the bottom of the forest was lovely and rooty before it was sanitized. Must have known about the trail centre all those years ago and got some practice in how to take all technicality out of a trail.

or blue?

Report him as the company are obliged to follow it up with the driver and as a few people have mentioned it will add to the weight of evidence against poorer drivers. TThe problem is that there’s always a shortage of drivers so sacked drivers just move on to smaller companies that don’t really care about the standard of their drivers as they compete on price rather than quality of service.

It’s also a shame that there isn’t a way of identifying and reporting idiotic cyclists and getting them trained or removed from the road.

I used to run 06 Z1SL’s whcih have the same air preload in the right leg and currently have some 07 AM2’s which are a very similar fork to the Z1 light (coil ETA 1 side and air other).

I weigh 240lb and had the same problem, On both forks I added oil in the right leg so when the fork was fully compressed the oil was pretty much where the bottom of the top cap seats. I’ll never get the last 5-10mm of travel but it lets me run a lower preload pressure without blowing through the travel as quick.

Just seen a picture of the 09 ID. It’s visual terrorism I say.

AndyL’s custom job ilooks much better IMO.

Maxxis SP are fine on 819’s run with sealant.

This is a pic from the weekend, you can see I’m using all the travel up to the last 5mm-ish on the forks and less than that on the shock. That 5mm on the forks is the bump-stop territory! The shock goes a tiny bit further on a 2-3ft drop off….But otherwise that’s it

So they are well set up and NOT too soft for how you ride them.

Are you bottoming the fork every couple of hundred metres or going over the bars on every descents. If not then their not too soft. Most people run their forks far too firm with far to much compression damping IMO.

No

If it’s newer Bullit with the 1.5 headtube then the lowest stack height you can get is around 14mm with some e13 1.5 to 1 1/8th reducer cups plus an internal headset. I’ve got some brand new reducers in the garage if your interested. Retail at a ridiculous £42 but you can have them for £10 posted.
Therre are also quite a few of zero stack (around 13-15mm stack in real terms) 1.5 reducer headsets at around £50-£60

There are stronger options but nothing that low to convert 1.5 to 1 1/8th.

I use them for AM, trail and DH duties on a 6″ bike. I’m 17.5st and never need to use more than 1 finger even under full braking/stoppies which reduces hand fatigue no end. They feel better built than my old Mono M4’s. It took me a couple of descents to get used to them having a little less modulation at pad contact and initial braking but once into proper braking they have at least as much modulation without the spongyness. They even take Mono M4/old XT pads if you file off the dog ears on the pad backing plate.

Agree that XT brakes are all the lighter rider would need.

I wouldn’t bother with mid wales.

There’s nothing to see there……

;)

K = Klein

That’s not the active version with the HRM snaps

I’ve worked on the M57 extension near Liverpool in the mid 90’s. That must qualify me for trail building and maintenance at CyB. Saying that there’s been quite a bit of subsidence on the section we constructed so it might be they are after someone who can get the trails a bit smoother.