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Viewing 40 posts - 81 through 120 (of 874 total)
  • Readers’ Rides: Luke B’s Scott Spark
  • doof_doof
    Free Member

    Thanks for the insight, the Stooge is obviously very capable if the Bystickel isn’t getting any love.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    u aint got no air spring chamber
    vanilla = coil innit

    I used to find this useful:

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id28.html

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    loctite 680

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Like the looks of that Arkose SS.

    The N-R frame looks interesting too. Evans seem to be be out doing On-one in the niche bike stakes.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    310g 😀

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Stans Crest is now available in 24″

    Velocity do some (eg Aeroheat), but not as light as the Crest.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Check out the Family forum on MTBR, plenty of Scott Spark upgrade builds for inspiration, eg

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    There’s a good thread on mtbr about various set ups. I have 7 9sp cogs (XT) with XT shifter and Saint rear der. I’ve done this on 2 frames, the only tweak I had to do was put a thin washer on the rear der mounting bolt on one of the frames to get the pully/cassette clearance.
    People have managed to fit 8 10sp cogs.

    Have a read through this lot:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/6-cogs-ss-hub-best-solution-458083.html

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    The Hope graphics get more gopping with each new product.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Cracked my Lynskey back in March, still ride it most days as the crack isn’t growing too much 😀

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    43 in shimano
    44 in sidi
    Bought NW celcius in 44 but they were boats, even with very thick socks. Returned for 43’s, which are perfect. Agree that they are snug to get into though.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Miracle have a bolt thru disc brake cross bike on offer.

    That does look good. Eyelets for rack/guards, too?

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    There are plenty of ~23lb and less Czars on MTBR

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    The reason behind this issue is several young Italian Men are being admitted to hospital with dick injuries.
    The lesser suction will reduce the amount of hospital admissions.

    Mumma Miele!

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Bonesetter – out of interest, how does the Stooge compare to your By:Stickel?

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    GTR wagon would be handy.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    ^^ good info.
    68 x 113 showing here:

    http://www.bikeshack.net/www.bikeshack.net/info.php?p=5&pno=0&pid=2854370&cat=245345&ack=9&search=&sought=

    Remove the drive side lip and it’ll work with a 73mm BB shell.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    That’s a shame about the SS ones as they were excellent for the price. Could be worth asking SS who the OEM is if you want to track another one down. Or perhaps they still have some random ones left in stock, worth asking.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Niner ROS9, aint cheap though.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    I believe they’re $60 from http://www.evolutionbikeco.com/brakes.html

    Not the most economic solution.

    Or shim some Identity ones, aint pretty though:
    https://leagueofbikepolo.com/bike/mario-g/scourge-of-god

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    If I was going to spaff £7k on a bike it wouldn’t be on something as gopping as that!

    Or indeed on a Spesh

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Boulder?

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Good resource for kids bikes/components here:

    http://faqload.com/faqs/bikes/kids-bike-weightloss

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Currently riding a cracked Lynskey road frame. Crack has appeared on the side of the down tube where it meets the head tube. I believe the problem comes from the cable stops, which are welded on the head tube. These welds overlap with the DT/HT weld, and is where the crack has appeared. Lynskey offered to repair it for US$150 (+ shipping of course). I’ve been monitoring the crack for a few months and it hasn’t propergated any further, but I’ll get it welded up locally at some point.
    Love the frame (prefer it over my previous TCR), but I wouldn’t buy another high(ish) end ti frame. Think I’d opt for decent steel or cheaper disposable carbon jobbie next time around.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Had four Schwalbe Ultremo’s develop bulges in their casing. Schwalbe weren’t interested. No longer use Schwalbe road tyres and don’t have any issues.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    ONE of the best. That frame seems to be universally lauded as a great racing frame from what I’ve read about it. But I’m sure you know that, being in the industry and all 😀
    I assume your CAAD is sub 15lbs with pedals if you think there isn’t much fat on it to trim cost effectively.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    You want to get rid of one of the best frames available to save ~270g and spend £650 in the process (though I assume you’d sell the CAAD10)?

    Must be weight savings to be had elsewhere?

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    http://www.evolutionbikeco.com/brakes.html

    US$60 apparently, and they don’t come with the actual bosses.

    Identity do a version for 25 pounds, but you’d need to shim the ID:

    DMR, PAce and others used to make something similar, but can be difficult to track down.

    I’m in the process of machining a set up for my daughters 12″ Hotrock.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    65mm Chinese carbon tooo wide?

    http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/newsshow.php?cid=4&id=31

    mmmm

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Overall width may not chnge too much, but the tyre profile looks quite different?

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Doof Doof, what did you use to clean up your vice? I’ve got a woodworking vice that needs a refurb, I’d be delighted if I could ge it anywhere near as shiny as yours.

    I used a wire wheel (proper one, not drill mounted) to get the bulk of it cleaned up. It came off quite readily, but it killed my arms holding it during the process! The areas the wheel couldn’t access, eg. between the guide shafts, I used fabric backed sandpaper strips. I finished it will canuba wax and it seems to be holding up fine so far.

    I also have a rare Record #75 like yours that I’m in the process of cleaning up. Thinking of using the bead blaster at work on that one as there’s no original finish worth trying to preserve. Will post some pics when it’s eventually done.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Ashton on defence = 😆

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    plus 20mm with this:

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Used the M810 SSC sintered for a couple of alps trips now, can’t say I noticed any significant difference to the OEM pads.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    brant – Member
    Brant – any chance of a “raw” frame only version in the near future? I’ll be waiting to hit the “buy” button!
    No. Raw is lazy.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    Chilterns is flinty. UST casing 2.25 Ardents or 2.4 EXOs last well here compared to others that I’ve used (std Contis, Spesh 2bliss, non EXO or UST Maxxis) and roll pretty well. Thicker casings and chunkier treads cope better but flint can slice any tyre.
    From riding with others on Schwalbes (inc snakeskins), I won’t go near them. eg when we went to Israel in April we were warned about brutal tyre shredding ground, and it was. All the locals were on Maxxis UST. My mates snakeskins were holed daily.

    +1 what this man said for something with a UST casing.

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    knard technically fits in a 425mm salsa (mtbr)

    doof_doof
    Free Member

    doof doof
    Pics of clearance

    Thanks for taking the time to do that, much appreciated. Looks like you could almost fit a Hans Dampf in the front 😉 I think that frame is top of my list to replace my cracked ti frame.

Viewing 40 posts - 81 through 120 (of 874 total)