I’ve had a set of Enduro seals on my Vanilla for coming up 4 years now with no ill effects. Actually rebuilt the fork last w/end for the first time in a while and the fluid was as clean as it went in.

Sounds like the £200 ono asking price is fairly reasonable then. Thanks for that.

The components we used to have chromed at my old work were copper dipped first, which is how I would have thought a frame would be done, which adds weight, time, and expense to the process. The frame would have to be meticulously prepped to get the finish you’re after.
Maybe just get the fork done, if you’re running the standard steel fork?

You may also eventually run into problems with the nickle no wanting to flex with the frame, so it will probably eventually crack and/or peel around the high stress areas.

The new RRs are brilliant, and a much better all-rounder than the old version was, better than NN’s IMO. I use my 2.25s all year round too, getting more traction in the mud than people running ‘mud’ tyres.

We didn’t see any bluebells out on Sunday either, though I don’t think they’re far off at all.
The best spot for them last year I saw was near Northend (Queen Wood/Turville Park area), there were squillions of them:

yes with the standard spacer arrangement. details on the fox site.

Totems are unchaged for ’10, cept graphics.

150mm Revs are looking nice too:

Hold out for the 2010 170mm u-turn Lyric?

My most indulgent purchase would be Extralite eBones-W crankset. ~400euro as I recall.

Very nice! Taking my RFX to the alps again this year, it’s perfect for that kind if stuff.
Your rear mech housing looks very tight over the rocker?
Oh, and running a triple on a 6″+ travel bike is just wrong!!

Here’s mine from last year, changed a few things since then:

’tis an ’05 575, pre-metal head tube badge.

What are these ‘inner tubes’ you speak of, and where would one use them??

Pretty sure you’ll need a new damper assembly, which won’t be cheap.

Oh no yoy can’t go slagging off the sacred on-one, you’ll get lynched!

Funny how they can be so rubbish but its passed off as idiosyncratic and just the way they do business. If another online retailer did it they’d get a right bashing (in a forum kind of way).

I have a DT 1.1 on the front, OP on the rear. I find that the OP has a better braking feel (smoother) than the 1.1.

~20-22psi with UST RR’s on Stans rims, 70kg on Turner Flux. Tried 18psi, but that was too squirmy.
IMO over 30psi is WAY too high, regardless of your weight/style/blah blah.

for longer rave forks, being able to tune the LS and HS compression is very useful. Particularly useful for reducing brake dive in Alps-type riding.

Octalink on two bikes and SSC isis on another, which is still silky smooth after a winter of abuse – very impressed.

Good to hear – we’re heading over there in April, looking forward to it now!

Yes, you want skill, watch the SoHem teams.

I used it in all my bearings. If it’s good enough for Enduro to use, then its good enough for me.

As per Njee, I don’t bother with NNs any more. RR are faster, lighter, same grips levels and don’t squirm like NNs do. 2.25s all the way here.

Here’s mine, running 1×9:

I think he means why don’t more companies push the boundaries, rather than making products which are going to work under fatties who shouldn’t really be considering ultra-light kit.

Yup, that was what I was getting at. Unfortunately kit generally has to be designed for worst case scenario. In the case of a post, it is going to be designed to not fatigue under a fatty, rather than impact strength (ie. a crash).

Thomsons CAN be pig heavy depending on what dia you use. All my bikes are 27.2mm, and Thomsons are pushing 300g for 410mm length. My KCNC’s and Extralite are sub 150g (350mm though). I also have a Masterpiece, but that’s still over 200g I believe (350mm). Thomson weights are a little better in the bigger diameters though.

It’s a shame there isn’t more choice in rider weight limited parts. Why should those of us that are more average weight have to lug around parts that are designed to take the weight of fatties!

Take the coil out and see if you can compress them the full 140mm.

Yes, it’s ti on xtr. You’ll still get some gouging (I did on my Hope ti body), but no where near as bad as ali bodies.

I got a helmet from them last year, transaction ws trouble free and delivery pretty quick.

20mm all travel spacer so 100mm or 120mm internal adjustment.

I came from a 575, and the RFX is awesome, much more capable than I!

Looking forward to taking it to the Alps again this yesr, this time with Saints to stop me (no more boiling brakes…yay)

lol, nice.

Soles should be black though.

Works on my carbon road bike (Giant TCR).

Ones from Hope are generally SKF or ENO. FAG are also good quality. There are many online places that do the standard Hope XC bearing sizes in these brands.
The Chinese bearings will last longer if you re-pack them before first installation with decent grease IME.

I’ve been toying with the idea of building a steel front triangle for my Turner, tweaking the geometry so it’s slightly lower and slacker. Even gone as far as modelling some of it in 3D CAD. I’ll get there one day…

Inspiration comes from the lovely Fat City Shock a Billy

What’s the rear end lateral rigity like?

I’ve got them in my Mini’s. Not cheap, but they have lasted me two trips to the Alps and still going strong. They certainly have more bite than the stock Mini pads, but then you’d expect that with semi metallics vs organics. I’ve also got some superstar pads, but haven’t had the need to use them yet. Would be interesting to compare them to the Swissstops.

I have 2.1s and 2.25, the 2.1s never get used now. The 2.25s are brilliant for racing as well as general trail riding (4″ FS).

Shimano *claim* a 50% increase in power over the 800 Saints. Even if it’s 25%, that’s still decent. As long as it’s controllable power, of course.

That’s the other option I’m considering, XT’s with 203’s, as it ought to be lighter and cheaper (and more pad options). Some of these lazy piston/seal issues are a little disconcerting though.
A third option is to buy XT levers, XT rear caliper and Saint front caliper for a best of both worlds approach.