I had visions of the site being neatly cleared away apart from a few bemused people attached to lonely concrete blocks.

+1 Lol to see it all going on with them cordoned off on their own. What if they need a crap as well 😆

Looks impressive, needs some green!! You’d have a field day with some of our systems, hundreds of sensors to monitor.

On the photo of of my underfloor pumps the round grey boxes are for sensors to monitor system temps, the controller goes on the DIN rail above. It’s similar to PLC process control with SCADA front end if you know control systems. Some jobs are interesting, we did the control for what I believe is the one of the largest Biomass jobs in the UK at UEA, a biomass gassification unit (a couple of stories high) produces gas for a 1.5 MW CHP unit and absorption chiller with own woodchip drier. They planted a wood to feed it! UEA Gassifier

I do Building Management Systems software and graphics that control large commercial systems the Olympic Velodrome, large district heating projects, PFI stuff, nothing domestic. Nearly all jobs have biomass, CHP and solar nowadays with a strong slant on energy monitoring, metering and analysis.

A more jazzy template/theme may be a start 😆

Threads like these are always funny.

That was why I wondered, the pre heat tank is common in larger commercial jobs, here is a layout of a recent job:-

Good if you use a lot of hot water. But for heating systems I suppose it’s harder to make the most of the solar water during the winter for heating, as the thermal store will have heat.

I’ll have a read through that thread with a cup of tea!!

If this is covered in that thread say, but, when you have the boiler running and heating the thermal store how do you prevent it filling the thermal store down to the bottom down to the solar coil? Else you’d be just having a small gain from the solar or even a -ve.

Thats a pretty impressive setup, having them as a ground mounted array gives you the advantage of exact angle and and direction as well, plus you can have a large m2. To make it worthwhile for heating you need a good amount.

Quick fire questions!!
Is the feed to you thermal store run in 22mm?
What distance is it?
Do you loose much temp on the run?
Do you get RHI for it?

To have PV it’s not worth it unless you’re pretty much facing south, not so sure with thermal as the install costs are that much lower.

You can mount solar thermal vertically, on that south facing wall where the round window is BTW.

That what the flashings for in the end wall, I though of a veranda with a PV roof, supported by chunky wood frame covered by vines me cooking on a wood fired pizza oven sipping wine on a hot summers night, 😆 , oh well…………..

I think the thermal store will stay and only be isolated if ASHP comes in to the equation. £1000 is what I was quoated for the kit, to do it with pipes etc.

Did you do most of the build yourself or project it, must have been great fun to do, design and see progress.

Just had a bit more of a look through the earlier post as I’m a bit more with it today!

I like your set up Stoner, that’s a dual fuel boiler then, logs or pellets, nice touch. I wonder if you need to use the thermal store with pellets as they can be regulated so much. The option I was looking at would be to have a large remote pellets store blown filled then use a vacuum feed to the week tank that built in to the Windhager boilers. I was planning on removing or valving off the thermal store as the boiler can modulate much like a conventional boiler.

The other option is to have a solar coil fitted to the thermal store, it has a blanking plate for the coil to be fitted.

I’d half though about removing the half the roof of our workshop/shed and putting thermal solar on it to feed the tank. I’d like PV but the shed not south facing, it’s either west or east 🙁 The house is south facing but I don’t want solar on the roof.

Our shed:

Here is a Biomass Guide it’s about Windhager products but still interesting to see system configs.

By the way what national park are you in 29erKeith?

Green Building Forum Another useful link to a good knowledge forum.

Mines only 720l and will last 4-6 hours or so in winter

I was hoping 1500ltrs would last a day+ 😆

Why the cold starts out of interest?

We live between 2 houses.

Also UFH should be left on for long periods but lower temps. It doesnt cycle well as there s lag in heating up the slab. I have mine set to 18degrees for most of the day (as I work from home) it doesnt take much energy, but letting it go cold during the day and have it try and fire up again in the evening to 20dges say would take a while. Quick extra heat comes from the log burner anyway.

Very true, if you have a heat pump setup it is common to run it 24 hours a day in cold periods but then reduce the flow temp down to around 35ºC.
The 1500ltr thermal store seems to last for a surprisingly short time 🙁 My problem is we have to have cold starts fairly frequently.

still using elec to heat your home. Naughty Dobbo!

I know, better than coal though? 😳

There’s no converter for that boiler, the boiler set up would be so different I expect. I’m also looking at maybe adding a ASHP that would feed into the underfloor header and would isolate the thermal store via a 3 port control valve, it would monitor the underfloor pumps, if one is started by a zone it would close a relay and start the ASHP thus all being automatic which is my main aim now. If the log boiler was running or heat in the thermal store that would have priority and the ASHP would only start if no other heat is available. If that makes sense!!

Not read it all as just getting going after a bit of a heavy night!

We’ve got a log burner we inherited from the previous house owner, he has a joinery company and got unlimited wood to run the place for free, we’ve been coming to grips with it and it’s a bit love/hate. It does tie you down due to time lags in getting the thing started and up to temp if you’ve been away for a few days. The system wont start to supply heat to the underfloor until the thermal store has 45ºC which can take a few hours, then underfloor is not instantaneous either so in the middle of winter it can be frustrating.

Log prices aren’t cheep, and the quality varies a lot, we use a local supplier and it’s gone up to £50 a dumpy bag it’s claimed to be hardwood but it’s a mix, some of it doesn’t have much substance but it is well seasoned.

We have a good size multi fuel stove so we tend to rely on that mostly, we’ve go 2 tons of coal coming today, that gives an idea of what we tend to use out of preference! We got a price to replace the log boiler to wood pellet and it would cost £14k (ouch). That’s Windhager which is an expensive make, all the room controls communicate to the boiler using LON network etc…

Some pics.
Boiler and 1500ltr accumulator (thermal store).

Underfloor pumps and valves.

Part of log store with dumpy bags in front waiting for the coal man!!

Expansion vessel needs to be large due to thermal store.

Edit:
Also got a ton of these coming tomorrow, £250 @ 5Kwh/Kg, see how they work out.

Cheers, I’ll get searching!

As an aside, where did you get it, I like…a lot!

Chilled beer?

Fags?

Condoms?

Whole live crabs?

I’d like to see a live crab with a beer in one claw a fag in the other and a condom on his little crab knob.

I know a fella in Ravenstonedale but I don’t think he’ll deliver that far.

but he isn’t going to deliver to North Manchester.

Sorry thought it was a general question, just giving an idea of what others pay! Seen your “People of North Manchester” now 😳

Sounds a touch high, I pay around £45 a dumpy bag although it’s not a full meter cubed, thats meant to be hardwood but I think it’s a bit of a mix thats if i buy 6 bags. Going to look at a Different suppliernext week who quotes £45 + del for hardwood dumpy bags.

Make sure it’s well seasoned as well, makes a big difference.

I like the Japs Eye seam in the guard.

Nicley ridden in.

Not hard to get the bonus points with search 8)

Where’s my prize?

Decent filler, the stuff that you mix the 2 parts isn’t cheap, but then you’ll forget the cost when the fumes get you, I love the smell of it, like the P40 car filler. I’d use wood.

I’d still like to find out why my upstrais lighting circuit used to trip randomly, even when off.

You may have other things off it, bathroom fan, security alarm, etc.
Loose connection?

Pretty simple really, just turn everything off, then turn things on until it trips. Make sure what you turn on start up fully, with the heating turn the settings up so to force it on and give it a few mins, to fully operate, it could be a valve or the ignition. Do until it trips then repair or replace **** item!

If it’s split way it rules out a lot of kit, could be anything on the ring main or other circuits. Immersion heater or heating? If it happens at night you can narrow it down some more. Try to get the fridge on a spur on the non-rcd side of the board so if you are away and it trips you don’t come home to a stinking apocalypse meltdown!

Sounds like the RCD is tripping which means something has got an earth fault, the RCD will knock the whole board off, or sometimes half the board with the lights and fridge not protected by the RCD.

Odd times maybe central heating.

I’m going off topic.

Yeah and we wouldn’t want that on STW would we. 😆

It’s got the queen on it, I’d get the ball peen hammer on it and fashion it in to something more useful, maybe an eggcup?

Our regional weather girl is buxom Hannah Bayman and I think I love her.

Her forecasts are also crap though.

Want to advertise
here?

…on the front page, WTF?

fasciasandsoffit 1st post and dead on subject as your username, a spot of spam anyone. You websites shite by the way.

i loved the sensation of the bed….

😯

I thought you were part of a terrorist cell from the thread title, very disappointing.

2 ladders needed so get another neighbour in 😉 They go up their respective ladders, take old gutters off, then remove fascia boards from the joist ends. Then they fit new fascia and replace/renew gutter fittings then clip gutters back in. They do this while you make them tea.

Any fascia that is in half a good state can just be clad with L profile fascia cladding nailed direct on.

Do it yourself (with the ladders owner helping) use PVC fascia for no maintenance.

Jobs like that are a nice day are good fun IMO.

Sometimes I do as the OP said and get half way though a post and delete it coz I CBA usually. Other times if it’s a bit controversial I think **** it and hit the post button.