Depends on the shock

•FLOAT DPS (9mm shaft) Air Spring Volume Tuning Kit: PN 803-00-802
•FLOAT X (1/2in shaft) Air Spring Volume Tuning Kit: PN 803-00-827

Guessing this is yours
•FLOAT RP Series (3/8″ shaft) Air Spring Volume Tuning kit: PN 803-00-612

Check spacer compatibility here

http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=568

£33.00… 8O the robbing bar stewards, would take the offer above.

Another vote for amalgamating tape. I also use it for wrapping gear and brake cables together, protects the frame and stops them from rattling about.

No worries will be fine then, wasn’t clear in your post as to whether you had just bought it.

Probably a vacuum in the lowers or imbalance between + and – air chambers.

Two ways of dealing with the vacuum in the lowers…either a push a cable tie down each dust seal and past the oil seal to allow air in or remove the footnuts and release the lowers, there’s no need to completely separate them just enough to break seal and let air in. The important bit is that it needs to be done with the stanchions at full extension.

If the above fails chances are its related to imbalance between + and – chambers caused by a blocked transfer port. If this is the case forks will need stripping and the transfer port cleaning out, reassemble with stanchions fully extended.

As above, Blacks are a bit tricky, I’m thinking of that bermed switchback that leads into the two drops, very little space/time to get the bike stood upright before the first drop, and it’s not rollable, messes with your head.

The crankset I’ve got just now is Shimano FC-M627: http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-Deore-FC-M627-10-Speed-Chainset_92590.htm

You do know that crank is for a boost rear spacing, apologies if you know, thought it best to ask?

Signal jamming is illegal in the uk

I think its only electronic signal jamming that’s illegal.

There was a landlord on the news recently, he’d had a copper coil (passive) installed in the ceiling of his pub to prevent customers using their phones, the landlord believes its anti social to use phones in his pub, perfectly legal by all accounts, so yeah could be an idea.

Won’t stop you opening a pastie, packet of sandwiches, fiddling with your Radio/Mp3 etc though.

Had an isssue on a friends PC last week whereby the map was being displayed on the far right of the screen meaning most of it was not viewable, cant remember what browser it was. If you haven’t already, it might be worth clearing the cache, if that doesn’t work reset browser to defaults, dont know if that will help with the issue but it cant hurt.

Done

security skewers on at the moment

I’d bet that’s your problem, I use Halo hex skewers and they don’t provide anywhere near the torque Shimano skewers do.

Providing they’re not blowing through on the compression stroke then yes lighter oil will make them feel a bit more supple, you’ll just need to add a couple more turns of rebound to bring everything back into line. Iirc Rebas use 5wt as standard, if you’ve not done it before its just a case of unscrewing the damper cartridge then draining and refilling with the correct amount of oil, its a ten minute job, for the record Solo airs are also self balancing.

First thing is to figure out whats wrong with them, alternatively just send them to tf tuned.

Are they topping out despite the rebound being wound almost all the way on (knocking at full extension), also if you hold the wheel down and pull up on the bars do they extend?

Shimano GS medium 11 speed rear mechs are designed to work with that range cassette and by all accounts work flawlessly with 10 speed.

I always do a lower service sooner rather than later, with new forks its the only way you can be 100% sure they have the correct amount of oil in them. Not saying this is the reason yours have developed play but it’s certainly a possibility, bike gets stored upside down as well.

If its worn bushings its a job for a specialist, assuming they’re still under warranty, give Mojo a ring and see what they say.

Look like 160 to me.

They will ‘suck down’ a small amount giving the impression they are short on travel (both my Pikes and Lyriks do this), this is normal if they are built properly

Terrible advice, completely arse about face. They should be reassembled with stantions fully extended and should not suck down, they dont come out of the factory like that, bet they’re topping out as well.

Chain too long (slack), front mech too high, where’s it coming off top or bottom?

Not dropped a chain despite not using a clutch mech, running 2X with Gamut bash and chain device.

I use Strava compare to see where others are faster, gearing’s a personal choice.

IMO Your wasting your time with chemical cleaners, heat pads slowly with until they stop smoking, when cool refinish the pad surface with dry wet and dry.

Disks should be scoured with soapy water and wet and dry then brakes bedded in again.

The above has never failed unlike so called brake cleaners.

Nothing changed since then apart from the new section they built last year.

Do you mind being over taken by middle-aged women?!

If shes wearing lycra and got a nice arse, it’s my pleasure.

A wolf whistles always appreciated ime.

When RS released the Debonair can for the Monarch shock it was perceived as “better” or an “upgrade” over a standard air can.

That’s to do with the volume of the negative spring rather than overall volume though. The large volume negative spring was designed to improve suppleness/sensitivity of the initial stroke, Fox followed suit and it seems didn’t take into account the higher pressures required.

Being able to custom tune volume is a good idea, with no downsides, what’s not to like?

[Quote]Big air cans are good because you can always add spacers, if it’s too small there’s not much you can do.[/quote]

This

Is it only me that never drops chains on 2x? Maybe because I am scrupulous about setup and maintenance?

No, unsurprisingly my front mech works really well as a retention device, chain is completely enclosed between mech cage and bash ring, you would need to split the chain or remove the bash to get it out.

Absolute bargain, quality chainset!

ESI

I’ve reported them, there’s lots on there from various sellers but all have the same weird description.

Are they fake though (in the eyes of the law)?

Doesn’t actually state they are RaceFace bars, guessing their argument would be that they’re carbon bars with RaceFace decals, don’t know if that is illegal, surely I can put whatever stickers I like on my bars, if you see what I mean?

In actual fact they’re listed as Generic/Unbranded, mmmm.

They’d probably sell (con) more if they weren’t as cheap, price is a give away.

Loose air cans, where did that come from?

The issues highlighted in the article.

FOX has learned that under certain conditions, some bicycle FLOAT X2 shock absorber air sleeves can rupture due to the increase in internal air pressure

and again

What’s wrong with the Float X2 shock?

a. “FOX has learned that under certain conditions, some Float X2 shock absorbers air sleeves can rupture due to the increase in internal pressure which occurs during shock absorber compression

Strava, for me it adds interest to what would normally be mundane rides. It’s satisfying to beat PRs that I set 3 years ago and shows my current fitness levels are better than they’ve ever been. For me it’s a motivator/training tool, I make a point of not using it on social rides.

I don’t find it fun wheezing around a ride that you once positively bounded around…..when you are fitter,

I find it demoralising and frustrating.

Acetone nail polish remover, works a treat.

Why anyone wants to mess around with two shifters while descending is beyond me

Me too, why would you? :?

What, like saying that the 350g (or 500g) weight saving isn’t a benefit, you mean?

I can only speak for myself but 350-500 grams would barely be noticable, if at all, so no, not a benefit I would notice.

Or is it just drivetrain weight that doesn’t count?

It all counts, its just the benefits are often over exaggerated in order to support an agument.

if you’re oblivious to weight differences then fair enough,

With a combined bike/rider weight of anywhere between 70 – 100kg, I’d eat my hat if you/anyone could tell the difference in 350grams.

I’ve not lost a chain since fitting a chain retention device and I dont even run a clutch mech. No one’s going to notice 350 grams.

remember when people used to run 2x and 3x systems and get their knickers in a twist about using the big ring to big sprocket or vice versa when in the granny and using the smallest sprocket out back?

Yeah, I still do.

+1 on your post.

You’re looking at it wrong.

I disagree, I think your looking at it wrong. Going from 2x to 1x I would want to know what the advatages are, apart from losing a front shifter and mech.

A different tyre/tube would negate the difference.

and be a compromise in order to claw back some of the weight.

I just don’t get it, what exactly are the benefits of 1x over 2x?

It’s not weight, it’s not price, it’s definately not chainline and it can’t be a chain retention thing?

Shouldn’t need a goatlink on an 11-36 cassette.

Sounds like b knuckle tension, hard to tell from photos. Make sure there’s enough clearance between upper jockey wheel and cassette, If thats ok check hanger alignment.

Lowers should be reattached with stanchions fully extended.

If you do it whilst they’re compressed you’ll just create a vaccum in the lowers when you reinflate, the vaccum is caused by the displacement of air in the lowers by the stanchions.

Maybe…