Pretty sure it’s meant to run up the bead, fited 25mm rim tape to my Arch Ex rims (21mm internal width) as recommnded by Stans and it does extend up the bead somewhat.

225 psi

Put clothes in a drybag, place drybag in any rucksack of your choice.

Exped are good ime, got a 20l one and they cost/weigh next to nothing.

Accidentally fitted a directional Shimano HGX chain the wrong way, I used it that way for a few rides before I noticed, I couldn’t tell any difference in terms of shifting.

Source? SSers would presumably be at much bigger risk so you’re mentioning that to them, I assume?

Besides, most of use are losing top gears that we don’t use rather than easier ones.

Not got one it was just a thought.

I would presume the more pressure you put on your joints the more wear they will see, could be wrong I’m not a doctor or anything.

Yes presumably ss would be more at risk, I thought I’d ask on this thread as I have no interest in ss threads, sorry if you thought I’d singled 1*10 out.

Isn’t there a doctor in the house?

Anyone considered the long term consequences that pushing big gears will have on their knees, your muscles will adapt but will your cartilage?

You could well be setting yourselves up for premature onset of osteoarthritis.

Oops sorry, double post.

Anyone considered the long term consequences that pushing big gears will have on their knees, your muscles will adapt but will your cartilage?

Sounds normal for 2013 CTD.

If upping the pressure doesn’t work you may be able to get around the issue by adding extra float fluid to the top of air piston.

Don’t Mojo offer a discounted upgrade to the 2014 damper for these, or did I just make that up?

2 year warranty, send them back?

Losing or gaining 20mm off the stem is often the difference between two different sized frames toptubes, so it does have a major impact on fit.

Manufacturers seem very slow in adopting longer top tubes imo with the odd exception of Kona and Mondraker.

Even now, in most cases, if you want a long toptube you have to go a size up which is far from ideal, instead they waste time developing products no one needs (650b).

Still waiting for a proper, affordable 10-40 cassette, its about time they started giving us what we want rather than what they want to sell us.

A worn chainring isn’t the cause of your shifting issues.

A worn chainring will cause chain slippage and in the case of narrow/ wide possible issues dropping the chain.

Sounds more like chainline/indexing related.

More info required on the chainset, current chainline, cassette, rear mech and bike and what the shifting issue is, are you running 11-36, 11-40 or 11-42, short medium or long mech?

Silcone spray should do it, WD is a bad idea on rubber and plastics.

Reverb bolts tight, should be 10nm?

Nukeproof Mega Tr frame on Chain Reaction Cycles for 815.00

Muckynutz or similar mudguard, helps by keeping crap off the seals.

Forget RRP, its an inflated figure designed to make discounted components look like a bargain.

I don’t think you can convert them to floats as I dont think they sell the conversions kits for pre 2011 forks anymore. Currently Mojo shows as out of stock, its been showing out of stock since I bought my pre 2011 conversion kit last year, I’d ring to double check.

For what its worth I’m running 65-70psi, zero clicks of high speed compression and 8 clicks of low speed compression (low speed is the small knob).

IME The float conversion is Ok (a bit more progressive) but hardly a game changer, your best bet would be to fit SKF low friction seals and refill with Fox 20wt gold if you can get hold of it.

Do you know if they’ve been serviced recently?

2.5 Minion DHF Exos front and rear here, quite like the look of the new DHR2, looks like it would provide plenty of braking bite.

@wallop I thought I was going to be getting a mk2 for a minute. Oh well at least its working as it should again. I’ll keep an eye on the pressure though, think I got mine from bikediscount.de.

Cheers fellas, pressure was 150, pumped it up to 250 and all is fine now.

Top marks for everyone!

I thought they might be a bit OTT unless your taking the belt and braces approach.

I’ve just built up a set of Arch Ex on Hope hubs, I just hope I don’t end up regretting it as I’m quite heavy at 100kg, I don’t get up to anything too gnarly though.

Arch Ex rims, Hope Hubs and Sapim D-lights 1680 grams.

Whats the fascination with Flows, they’re DH rims?

Washing up liquid, hot water and some 400 wet and dry IME.

Brake cleaner won’t get rid of baked on grime, in fact I can’t remember a single case where its actually worked.

So it does sound like contamination, possible cross contamination from discs.

Do they do howl all the time or is it just when they get wet?

If they needed bleeding you’d be getting exessive travel at the lever, if the levers are firm and you lack power it would tend to suggest contamination.

Is it just noise or are they lacking power, any excessive play in levers?

IME brake cleaner doesn’t always hardly ever cuts the mustard, try wet and dry and soapy water on the disks, obviously you will need to bed them in again.

Wouldn’t be happy about that, not exactly cheap either.

As someone who started out with 160mm 36s on their 2011 Orange Five (547mm a to c), its a difficult one to answer, as others have said its the axle to crown you should be looking at.

Ive since dropped my 36s 10mm to 150mm (537 a to c) and they still feel a touch to long, however 150 Pikes have an a to c of 532mm.

If I was buying a pair now I would go with the150mm Pikes or look for something with similar a to c.

Having said all that, at the end of the day it comes down to personal preference and the type of riding your doing.

Watch and learn!

http://www.open.edu/openlearn/science-maths-technology/engineering-and-technology/the-science-behind-the-bike

My mate has a Genius MC10 and those shocks are a pain to set up. Is he able to cycle through the presets via the handlebar lever, if not it could be something to do with the cable tension/setup?

With regards to the Pike the only thing that I can think of is the big O-ring that sits under the top cap. I don’t remember there being any replacement O-rings for the compression knob itself, it could be that you have to replace the knob/topcap, are you sure it’s not coming from under the topcap?

The shock should sit in it’s travel, it’s known as sag, it’s usual to set it between 20% and 30% of the shocks stroke.

Just buy a motion control service kit for the Pike, if one O-ring has gone then the others will probably need changing too, Loco Tuning or Tftuned will sell you a kit, they’re about 20 quid.

You’ll also need 5wt oil for the damper and 15 wt oil for the lowers, worth doing IMO, the pikes a decent fork and it’s a relatively easy job.

Is the chain routed through the rear mech correctly?

Pretty basic question but you wouldn’t be the first.

+1 Gisburn Forest or Cannock.

The Marin and Penmachno will probably be a bit too much IMO, Llandegla is flat by comparison.

Don’t think there’s much you can do to stop people digging holes, suppose you could always fill them in, but then do you have any more right too fill them in than they have to dig them, it’s not like they’re officially sanctioned trails/runs ?

Same with litter, not much you can do other than pick it up, maybe a few signs something like

DO NOT LITTER!

ACCESS TO THIS LAND IS NOT A RIGHT AND IS GRANTED BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE LANDOWNER, BY LITTERING WE WILL LOOSE THIS PERMISSION AND YOU’LL SPOIL IT FOR US ALL.

TA

CONCERNED RIDERS.

Its a pretty quite spot, advertising it’s existence on here’s not going to help.

I’m currently running a pair of 2.5 DHF Minion EXOs , I’ve tried a few tyres over the years from Maxxis,Continental and Schwalbe but always seem to come back to Minions.

Not an awful lot wrong with the Minion/HR combo you mentioned, I used to run it.

The new Minion DHR 11 looks like it would be a better option on the rear than the old high roller, reviews suggest it also makes a good front tyre, I need to try one!

Look out for the new (wider) Minion DHF 2.3s, the old 2.35s came up a bit narrow, all are available in single ply with EXO sidewall protection.

Other tyres are available, however I doubt you’d be disappointed with any of the above, if you ride a ride a lot of rough rocky terrain the EXOs are a must.

I can’t comment on Butchers as I’ve not tried them however I have tried Nobby Nic (snakeskins) and agree with the other comments about them, IMO they’re are more XC than Trail.

Nothing wrong wrong with either, if moneys tight Deore if not SLX.

The SLX has proper hollowtech (hollow) arms with steel pedal inserts so should be a touch stiffer and a bit more durable than the Deore. Its probably worth noting Deore bearings are pretty crap and would need replacing sooner rather than later, on balance I’d go for SLX.

I stand corrected , not seen that one before! I thought you where getting confused with the air piston mod.

Suppose there’s only one way to find out for sure.

What year are they is this something new?

Moving the pin on the air spring will not increase your travel, the mod is a way of creating a more linear spring curve.

Pretty sure you won’t be able to increase the travel on 120 floats. Increasing the travel involves removing the internal spacer from the spring side (if fitted).

Pretty rubbish IMO.

I had a similar experience to the OP (XT hubs), I don’t mind a bit of maintenance but having to clean and regrease hubs every couple of weeks got too much for me.

They’d be decent hubs if it wasn’t for poor seals, cartridge bearings all the way for me now.

Just to add, the sealing on the front hubs are fine, it’s the rears that that are crap.

IMO They’re not waterproof.

I used mine for walking and they still leaked despite the fact that no water entered through the tops, what I did notice was, although my feet where wet they where still warm.

You could try chainring spacers.

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/390/cridsd/id-outer-chainring-spacers.html