Not sure why you’d want to narrow the available range beyond what you’ve got now, as Tom says you’ll be double/triple shifting on the back.

If its purely a weight saving exercise your not going to notice any difference at all. It would be cheaper, you’d gain more performance and you’d save more weight by spending your money on lightweight tubes, assuming you run them.

it’s definitely not the arm being offset that gives me the clearance.

+1

Mines never been off, had it since new and it looks central as far as I can see.

Goldigger – Member

I phoned orange and they told me a triple works..but nothing bigger than a 32 middle ring.
The pro comes with a triple chain set..22/32/42

Had a triple on mine and got sick of dropping the chain, reckon you’ll end up going 1×10 or 2×10 with some sort of chain device.

Orange are wrong!

I know of two people running 24/36 on a triple, I’m sure they can’t be the only ones, there have been some clearance issues when running a 36t in the past, however, for them to say it doesn’t work is just wrong.

Advice should have been, we’re not sure as tolerances vary, try it and see, it may well do.

Not even Hotlines have got them.

I would not be happy, what do they think your going do if it breaks, happily sit around playing tiddly winks for a few weeks waiting for it to turn up?

Could be a number of reasons for it, fault at exchange, fault at master socket, dodgey isdn filter, spyware, poor wireless connection or more than likely your just are a long way from the exchange.

Speak to BT broadband, get them to test the line.

Orange Five 2011
Hope/Arch Ex, 2.5 Minion Exo, Reverb, XT 24/36 double and bash, Gamut P30, 2010 Fox 36, Rp23, Hope V2s 203/180, Haven bar and stem, HT mag pedals…14.1 kg 31lb.

Don’t forget if you tuck in, you can encourage a driver to overtake straight into a head-on collision (2x cars at 30mph and you’re talking 60mph closing speed and very possibly death)

Nice one, best advice I’ve seen, will give this a go next time.

Yes, spent 3-4 months in a splint in order to correct a Mallet fracture (tendon torn from bone), so yes IME X-rays do have there uses.

@goldigger I tried three different front mechs and settled on a FD785-10 double.

@goldigger I’ve been running a 24-36 double and bash setup on my 2011 Five for the last two years, I have no clearance issues, the chain does come close to the pivot when shifting but not close enough to touch.

Orange Five 24/36 double and bash.

Chainset is an XT 770-10 triple with the outer removed.

Re:-the colour, it has to be green and black.

flanagaj – Member

Cheers chaps. JimW has spotted the potential issue here. I could try the M782 22T inner ring, but the ramps on the middle ring might make shifting up the gears problematic.

It will be fine, just get a steel Deore ring they’re cheaper and will last longer than M782.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-fcm530-triple-chainring/rp-prod19103?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom&gs=1&gclid=CPLgo7XBkMACFWT4wgodygUAzQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

saw a brand new alpine swing arm written off in a 2mph topple onto some rocks on a demo day. There is nothing in the design that makes it less prone to impact, cracks etc.

deviant – Member

That would be known as a freak accident then….and can happen to anybody’s bike with whatever design suspension.

…and the chances are, if it were less then 5 years old they’d be able to supply you with the replacement parts.

andybrad – Member

How do you put the float fluid on top of the air chamber on fit forks?

Posted 1 day ago # Report-Post

Let all the air out and undo the air side top cap, think it’s a 34mm socket, use a rag to clean out the old fluid and replace with 5ml of fresh float fluid, replace top cap and re-inflate.

Definitely worth doing IME, it only takes 5 minutes.

Yeah mate, I’ve got one.

They’re not fully windproof but wind resistant which is preferable imo. They’re pretty versatile and can be worn on and off the bike, good to throw on over a standard fleece etc, also work well as a sunshirt.

Can’t fault mine, its light, packs down to nothing, it does exactly what I was expecting it do.

Are you sure you can just fit a 48 outer?

I’m not sure the front mech will deal with 22-32-48, think you might need a 26 and 36 to go with the 48.

What Kendo said 30ml of green through the bottom of each leg, don’t forget the 5ml of float fluid on top of air piston, only takes 5 mins if you’ve got the socket, not worth doing half a job imo.

Am currently and have been running xt 9 spd 11-32 cassette with kmc x9sl gold chain for the last 8-10 months………..I am however on my 5th chain and 4th cassette in that time,

5 chains to 4 cassettes, sounds like you need to change your chain more often, should be more like 12 chains to 4 cassettes?

d45yth – Member

I don’t understand how a lot of folk are getting away with such low pressures.

Most are running low to mid 20s in the front and high 20s, low 30s in the rear apart from boardinbob but he’s running Dual plys, sidewall stiffness plays a big part in it, I don’t use dual-py but always buy a tyre with tyre wall reinforcement.

AP probably weighs 70kg ish?

The equation is from the Stans site.

I run the same pressures tubless as I did when I had tubes, 25psi front and 30 rear, any lower and Id be at risk of dinging the rim, same with tubes, only any lower and I would be risking pinch flats.

In answer to the OP, I don’t think you can automatically run lower tyre pressures with a tubeless setup.

Skills offer no protection from rocks, plenty of pro/skilled riders end up hurt, some with life changing injuries(probably didn’t do a skills course eh?). :roll:

It’s a case of when, not if, so best to be prepared for it.

Those DHR2s looks the business and have some good reviews, not tried one yet but they seem to be a cross between a DHF and High Roller. I know Jared Graves has been running one (3C EXO) on the front of his Yeti with an Aspen (Lust) on the rear and he seems to be doing alright, always nice to know what the pros are running.

“Self flagellation”, the “hard working” people of this country will settle for nothing less.

Think they look good, 700 grams, well ventilated and unlike the old version meet the same safety standards as a tradditional full face, price seems reasonable as well.

The biggest mistake they made was to call it Parachute as it aligns it too close to the old one. I suspect despite the name they will fly off the shelves anyway, guess we’ll have to wait and see.

Arch Ex here, no issues to report fitting tyres, not had them long so cant comment on durability.

New tyres are easier to fit if they’re initially fitted with tubes, inflated to there maximum recommended pressure and left 24hrs before fitting tubeless.

Yes of course it is.

SLX ftw, if you’ve got a few bob spare then Hope.

nigew – Member

If you are using Hope floating rotors the rivets could catch on the caliper, some of the guys I ride with had that problem running 200/03 rotors with Shimano Saints

This^.
I’ve run Hope (180) floating rotors with both Deore and XT calipers and both calipers have needed filing in order to prevent contact with the rotor.

If you go Maxxis and can afford it, get the Exo version of whatever it is you buy.

As well as offering greater puncture resistance EXO sidewalls give greater support which allows the use of lower tyre pressures, having said that, a standard single ply Dhf will be absolutely fine, been running Minion Dhf s for years in various guises.

Gone from tubes to tubeless and not noticed any difference, didn’t flat with tubes don’t flat without.

I’d be looking for 120-140 with a view to reducing travel to 120-100 by way of internal spacers.

A 140 fork will be more adaptable in terms of possible future frame upgrades.

It’s important, you just have to look on here and see the issues people are having trying to get 1×10 running smoothly.

There’s no bike hire at Gisburn, there’s no shop, just a small cafe and a new toilet block which is nice.

POC Bones

For extra security you can slide them on and then strap them up or just use the straps, I tend to just use the straps.

Coverage is great and they’re a lot cooler than they look as they actually sit off/away from your shins.

Expensive but worth it imo.

Booking in advance is a waste of time ime, it’s the driver/guard that has the last word.

If the train is full it makes no difference whether you’ve booked in advance or not, they’re not going to kick walk on passengers off so you can get on.

Been turned away despite booking and even then, if you get on, the ‘bike racks’ are often used for baggage storage, inevitably you spend the journey stood with your bike in the carrage exit, next to the toilets.

Who’s clever idea was it to get rid of the guards carriage?

[Quote]It’s about a year old…

Where should I start?[/quote]

Retailers, they come with a 2year warranty.

Probably best to fit a 10 speed KMC split link as Sram power lock links aren’t strictly reusable.

@Stamion

Could just be your pressure gauge is faulty, can you verify your gauges accuracy, got another you could try?

bikeneil – Member

Twenty quid seems steep for a wheel true.

Ohh I dont know, cracked ally nipple, others probably not too far behind, there’s a possibility some will be ceased, could turn out to be a nightmare.

Ignore that ^ , dont know what I was thinking.

Can you not just slide the dropouts back a bit (couple of mm)?