Sapim Dlights, 1.65 middle section resists winding/twisting during build process and just over 300gram a set, they work out at around 80p a spoke.

http://www.sapim.be/spokes/butted/d-light

Supercomps would be fine as would revolutions.

Oops double post

Ime They need greasing prior to use.

Better than Merlin IME.

Recommended listening from my Aussie Hip Hop collection……..

Dialectrix – Cold light of Day
Bliss n Eso – Circus in the Sky
Horrorshow – King Amongst Many
Hilltop Hoods – Walking Under Stars
Mainline – One Day
Spit Syndicate – Sunday Gentlemen.
Illy – The Chase.
Urthboy – Smokeys Haunt.

It’s a cop out in case you damage the walls running them at 20psi.

Row 32 is for a FIT damper, is yours FIT or open bath?
If they’re open bath then refer to row 27, I suspect they’ll be (OB)
open bath, don’t think RLs are FIT.

Should be covered by warranty imo, it’s not like it’s a normal wear and tear issue.

Anything from Sennheiser, would avoid wireless if its sound quality that matters.

+1 Mines also now on it’s way from Kaidomain.

Would be tempted to fit a 2.5 EXO DHF or Ardent EXO 2.4, either way the widest, tallest, fatest tyre you can fit. Oh and a new pump, and or pressure guage. We’re all assuming your running 40psi however the op shows the accuracy of the guage is not known.

Re: Your tyres.

Highrollers have a short tyre wall profile (they’re not particularly high volume), they’re not as tall as either of the above.

Snakeskins are crap

chestrockwell – Member

LOL at those moaning about puddles.

Whoosh.

Enduro bearings, not just me then?

Deore BBs IMO benefit from being greased prior to use, not impressed with Shimanos greaseless technology.

+1 for Stardrops, safe on rubber and plastics.

Recieved an email from Kaidomain this morning, apparently the ‘new’ Solarstorm battery boxes will be shipping this week.

Fox gold all the way, if its for 32s make sure they have SKF gold compatible seals installed, no issues with SKF 34, 36 or 40s seals.

It has been designed for one purpose only and that’s to lubricate the upper bushings and tubes, it does a much better job than their old ‘Jack of all trades’ green lubricant/damper fluid.

Use it in my 36s.

@Greenbikerider I’d would love to take the credit but it was copied and pasted from “The Art Of Wheelbuilding” by Gerd Shraner, if you Google it there’s a PDF of the book available online, it might be worth fitting washers next time, see page 41 of the book.

Love that old maxlight XC, dirtydog! Had that exact one in 19″ that was unfortunately too big and sold it for a song :-(. Easton taperwall tubes for some reason are the best alloy HT have ridden, that Kinesis matched my old RM Vertex easily. To date the only alu frames that I really miss, not at all punishing, lively, yet feels strong to boot.

Cheers, it actually gets ridden more than the five. Fit could be better, I’d prefer it if it was a touch longer in the toptube but there’s no doubting the quality of the tubing, it seems to do a good job of damping vibration. I’ve thought about getting rid on a few occasions but we’ve been through a lot together over the last 10 years, I’m glad I haven’t.

where they rub the flange holes of the hub.

Too little tension!

Cause #1 Play between the hub and the spoke. When a bike is ridden, its wheels are placed under radial loads and the rim flattens out a little as it presses against the road surface. Each spoke is therefore placed under load and relieved once every rotation of the wheel. A wheel which has covered 1,250 miles has been subjected to a million load changes! … And so a wheel with 32 spokes has been subjected to 32 million load changes! The attachment point of the spoke to the hub suffers a great deal during these load changes. If the spokes head and elbow is seated perfectly in the hub flange, without any play at all, then nothing can go wrong. But if the attachment point has the tiniest amount of play, then you have a spoke failure waiting to happen. Every time the wheel turns, the spoke jumps. A forging, shearing and whiplash effect occurs at the hub flange every time and the spoke hole, which is oversized anyway, is enlarged. A vicious circle begins, the spoke elbow is subject to huge stresses and the material is changed at an molecular level, making the spoke material brittle. The spoke “gives up the ghost” because it simply cant and wont carry on.

SAM_0060 by Dirtydog11[/url], on Flickr

SAM_0059 by Dirtydog11[/url], on Flickr

DSC00689 by Dirtydog11[/url], on Flickr

I give up.

Brother has them on his kart, work perfectly well for that particular application.

I strongly recommend anyone considering an Urge Archi-Enduro checks out the thread (on MTBR I recall) of a guy that crash tested one, and made a complete mess of his face.

Wrote mine off in an OTB incident, not going to go into detail but I wouldn’t have another even if I was given one.

Edit:That’s ^ not strictly true, I’d sell it and buy someting with a decent chinguard.

48/36 should be fine with an 11/36 cassette, assuming you are running slicks?

I run a 48/36/26 with an 11/28 cassette on my MTB/hybrid with slicks and have never used the granny, I imagine 48/36 would be fine with a wider ratio cassette for all but the steepest climbs.

Good read that Plython, agree with a lot of what Chris is saying, especially the toptube/seattube ratio.

For those that don’t know, Shimano components are covered by a 2 year warranty, I see no reason why this wouldn’t cover the clutch mechanism, you should use it.

over to the lake north of Betwys (it starts on a steep road climb up, then ends up climbing via a footpath through the woods then down to the lake, where there is a small tea shop

Llyn Crafnant, no finer spot in North Wales to enjoy a cuppa and a slice of lemon drizzle cake.

Or air can could be loose, to check, remove air, tighten air can (should be firm hand tight) and reinflate.

Would avoid Shwalbes at all costs, I’ve seen what lava dust does to tyres, no issues with Maxxis though. An aggressive rider will be lucky to get a full days riding out of a Hans Dampf/Nobby Nic.

Tenerife is pretty unique, the fact that a tyre works well here has no bearing on how well it will work there, would run whatever the locals are using, probably Maxxis.

Might be your just too light to get them working properly.

According to Bart Bentjens it’s one of the reasons womens World Cup XC riders will often favour HT over FS, don’t how true this is but he seems to know his stuff, the issue relates to the breakaway force required to get the suspension moving.

@Jonwe Ive also got one on backorder but received an email from Kaidomain yesterday, Solarstorm are working on a new box, it’s currently undergoing testing and should be available in the next few weeks, I’m pretty sure it’s not bull as I’ve been told the same from another supplier.

Flux has a bit more padding and kevlar side panels, Flux for MTB, and Spoon for road would seem appropriate.

Wheel bags, great if you transport bikes in car, helps keep car clean and prevents wheel damage/tangling with frame.

Should be done fully extended otherwise you will cause a vacuum in the lowers.

It will act like a negative air spring however the effect will be short lived as the air pressure will eventually equalise.

PS Tried it on my Fox36s, it’s a pity they don’t sell a range of negative coil springs, soft, medium and firm.

@james I would tend agree with that, my tyres come up slightly wider on my Arch Ex’s than they did on my old Mavic 321s, both are 21mm internally.

Sorted a few on an electric hob by heating pads until they stop smoking, no one died or got injured.

They will be fine.

I know someone who runs a Shimano lever with a Hope caliper filled with mineral oil, although I’d strongly suggest you don’t do that.

I believe Jared Graves runs XTR race levers with Saint calipers, its a not an issue.

Phew, that’s a relief

You’ll all be able to sleep easy tonight. 😀

Got to the bottom of this, the tyre is in fact a 60a, the information on the packaging which states it’ a 70a is incorrect, Googling the product number TB72560000 shows it is actually a 60a Maxxpro after all.

XTR shifters and SLX everything else