Chainset will be fine whether 9 or 10 speed.

Would be looking at SLX Shadow plus rear mech, SLX 11/36 cassette, if your fussy XT or XTR shifters, if your going 1X then perhaps a smaller chainring (depends on fitness).

No reason not go 10 speed.

the spring that eventually arrived will never touch any of my bikes

Changed your tune?

What always get me about Oranges, is now much hate ppl seem to have towards them, when they’ve not even tried one (never owned one myself).

Those who know do not speak. Those who speak do not know.

Lau Tsu

Damaged thread during removal?

True, but the replacement units are pretty cheap. 23 quid or so for an XT lever.

Agreed at XT/SLX level, wouldn’t want to have to replace XTR though.

dirtdog – you can get lever spares (like blades, bleed screws, separator units etc etc) no problem.

If that’s the case then no reason not to go XTR, as mentioned above would go for the Race version as they don’t have servo wave and would give a more linear feel.

Seatpost shim would be cheaper, but if you need an excuse… 😉

Just to add, the big issue with Shimano is the lack of spares, damage a caliper or lever and you’ll have to replace the part complete, it would be expensive to replace XTR, for those reasons I would go with Hope

Might as well get SLX as XT. (Beaten to it)

If it’s good modulation your after then look at Hope, Shimanos
Servo wave (cam mechanism) takes away some of the feel imo, they’re not linear.

(note XTR Race levers don’t have servo wave)

Running Fox 36s on mine (26″) at 150mm, have also tried 160, 140 and 130 (talas). Personally I think 150 Pikes would be the perfect choice, the a to c is slighly shorter than my 36s, if I had the cash they’re what I’d have on mine.

Ottawa is also worth a visit if you have a car, its around a 6 hour drive from Toronto so you’d really need to stay overnight.

Loads of restaurants/bars, parliment building (light show), national museum, it’s very laid back for a capital city.

The ‘Warplane Heritage Museum’ in Hamilton is worth a visit if your into old warplanes, it’s a working museum so many of the exhibits are being worked on by volunteers/veterans who are more than happy to chat.

48.8 comes from the way a double is measured, a triple is measured from the center of the seatube to the middle chainring, a double is measured from center of seatube to halfway between the two chainrings.

Playing Geoff Crammonds Grand Prix (Amiga) and later Grand Prix Legends(PC), both groundbreaking Sim Racing titles that still hold there own today.

Excellent idea, I imagine they’d use different layers of rubber compounds so the ride would be tuneable to some degree.

Sounds loose, none of the rings would move if it where tight.

Ta for that Swanny, thread bookmarked for later reference.

Will need to do this at some point.

Used to run 25f/30r psi with tubes, any lower and I would be at serious risk of pinch flatting/denting rim, now I’ve gone tubeless I run 25f/30r, any lower and I would be at serious risk of denting the rims.

Dust sheet and a pair of wheelbags.

dirtydog wins the thread

Knew it would be controversial, not much in the way of backlash yet.

Tubeless.

Never suffered from pinch flats/punctures, in terms of performance not noticed any difference, in my case they’re a solution to a problem that never existed.

Bigger steerer, bigger bearing, bigger headtube and all where it isn’t needed – I’m sure if you’re designing a frame saving 100g is a big deal.
Posted 21 minutes ago # Report-Post

On a XC bike yeah, on a 30lb trail bike the weight penalty wouldn’t make a blind bit of difference, would be happy to incurr weight penalty for wider choice of headset.

2 weeks is taking the proverbial.

1.5 has been and gone

It hasn’t, not at all, would take a 1.5 over tapered all day.
Would be more than happy to accept the insignificant weight gain over tapered for the freedom of choice in headsets, in fact 1.5 should be the standard for all headtubes imo.

Significantly heavier, thats a bit dramatic, I’d estimate 50 – 100 gram penalty over taperd, something like that?

Rab (Event) Latok Alpine here, currently on sale at Go outdoors for £120.00

legend – Member

Gutted that I’ve only got 140mm travel
Posted 3 minutes ago # Report-Post

150 /140 so no good to me either!

Yes Maxxis TR run a UST type bead, its the bead and the fact they’re “sealed” that makes them TR ready, and yes, EXO protection does add some stiffness to the sidewalls. I usually run the non tubeless EXO casing mounted to Stans rims and have not had any problems with burping, although I suspect this is no guarantee that you won’t. Rim bead design is probably as important as tyre bead design when it comes to burping, I normally run 2.5 EXO Minions at around f25/r30 psi, I weigh around 100kg.

P.S Suspect non of the above will really help with your decision.

Just a thought… some Shimano rotors are resin only, worth checking, don’t know how much this would affect things but they may not play nice with sintered pads, strange everything started out fine.

Further to Als comments, if pads where contaminated with mineral oil you would be suffering from considerable power loss and there’s no mention of that in your post, contamination is unlikely imo.

Go back to the same brand of pads that you used for the first twelve months, I assume they would have been Shimano resin, would also check rotor/caliper bolts are tight.

Hard pads like sintered are generally noisier than soft resin.

Big Bike Hope V2s 203 and 183
XC Bike Shimano XT 775s 180 and 160
Commuter Shimano Deore 525s 180 and 160
Weight 100kg

No but…I did swap from standard alloy bushes to Fox low friction bushes and stiction/breakaway force was vastly reduced, as a result small bump sensitivity was greatly improved. I see no reason why you wouldn’t see similar benefits with the Enduro kit assuming your coming from standard bushes, the only possible issue is longevity, not sure how long needle bearings will last but at that price I wouldn’t be too bothered.

Would try them first and figure out what, if anything, you don’t like about them. You could spend 300 on a damper upgrade and find out the air spring is too linear or progressive, chassis isnt the stiffest either. I think if they where mine I’d sell them and get a set of pikes, reckon you should get 200 for em.

I have usually bottomed out the rear RP23 shock despite it being set up for a heavier rider (I can’t change it without sending it away).
Decisions!

Volume spacers?

POC Bones

Dog owners fault imo.

I don’t see how a dog can be held responsible for anything, as a cyclist he should have been more aware of the potential pitfalls of dog walking at night, idiots some of them.

eg Dog on one side of road/cycle path and the owner on the other, connected by a 4 meter lead

The owner should have took reasonable steps to make sure the dog was visible, as a cyclist himself he would have been aware of this but just couldn’t be arsed, if it had been my dog I would have took full responsibility and have been gutted I’d allowed it to happen and very apologetic.

Could the owner have done more to prevent it, yes, definitely yes, could the op have done anything different to prevent it, no I don’t think he could.

As far as I know the chainlines are practically the same, the way its measured is different.

The chainline on a triple is measured from the center of the seattube to the middle ring whereas the chainline on a double is is measured from the center of seat tube to halfway between granny and outer ring (middle ring on a triple)?

Be careful out there, second death on Helvelyn this week!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-cumbria-30871294

Best bet would be to contact Silverfish (uk easton distributors).

http://www.silverfish-uk.com/ContactUs

Some Jazz Funk for ya.

Taken from the album Rocks,Pebbles and Sand by Stanley Clarke.

Chances of being involved in a terrorist incident is practically zero, don’t know what all the fuss is about.