^That’s what I think, had a look at a friends a few weeks back as he had play in his front wheel, pretty sure there’s no preload, just screw on end caps that look like preload but aren’t.

That’s a bit like being given a box of chocolates and told to pick one.

If they’re Fox (polymer) low friction bushes you can push them out by hand, same with fitting. If they’re the alloy type you will need a vice and bush removal tool.

Tophats can be clamped in vice and wiggled loose, alloy bushes will need to be pressed out and back in and will also require a vice, best bet would be to get your LBS to remove them then fit Fox low friction type.

Got as far as Hayes, awful wooden feeling brakes imo.

Deore or SLX would be a major upgrade. Would go with SLX if only for the ceramic pistons, better heat managment and perhaps more importantly, resistant to corrosion.

Basil – Member

Unless surname is Moss, new tyres to the rear regardless of drive wheels

Always thought grippiest tyres should be fitted to the rear in the case of front wheel drive, Grippy tyres on the front with worn tyres on the rear in certain situations can cause lift off oversteer.

+ Ceramic pistons will stay corrosion free.

Plenty of brakes do it, swap front pads for back, if it still does it then its caliper related, if it no longer does it it’s pad related.

Wouldn’t worry about it.

Its less than optimal for use over the full range of the cassette.

Chainline will be more exaggerated than it needs to be in the lower gears with more side loading on the chain and cassette, upside is it will be sweet in the taller gears.

Don’t need a GPS or Phone signal.

https://www.uepaa.ch/#!/app

Middle ring position is about as good as it gets.

generic window cleaner…

Nice one!

Was reluctant to use it as most seem contain vinegar (acetic acid), not sure how it would react with carbon bars and the grips themselves.

@Dave What did you use to fit the DSP grips, looking for an alternative to Windex?

Cheers Neil

So much so Im actually looking at a custom front double set up for those that really want it

Orange Bikes used to sell a 32/22 double.

Interesting thread, have been reading up on this lately, some good info here re:-suspension kinematics

http://www.i-tracksuspension.com/suspensiontheory.html

Autoglym

Not had any problems with mine, would be sending it back to whoever fixed it.

Is it a double chainset?

Aye, wouldn’t make a habbit out of it.

If there’s a vaccum in the lower legs a cable tie pushed about an inch down each dust/oil seal seal with forks at full extension should release it.

2015 Orange Fives have been tweaked again with new 20mm longer top tubes, might ride a bit differently than the 2014 model.

FTFY

Ibis Mojo SL by iainradford[/url], on Flickr

jonk – Member

FAG INA, SKF or Enduro if you can the rest are ok but don’t last as well

FTFY

+1 custom build.

Swarf looks eager.

Silverfish

http://www.silverfish-uk.com/Search/easton_stem_bolts

Edit forget it.. just seen stainless.

Do a couple of uplift days, instead of spending 90% of your time riding up hills you’ll spend 90% riding downhill and improving your skills.

Common issue if using Shimano brakes and Hope floaters, 5 mins with a file will sort it.

Anything by Fox thst doesn’t have a fit damper.

I also have a medium xt with 11-36, 24/36 Chainrings, no issues here either.

This drives me around the bloody bend when companies do this

Tip:From the left hand menu select “show in stock items only”

Instead of buying into a new bike/wheel size to make them a better rider

I cant say I’ve ever bought a bike in the belief it will make me a better rider, I doubt most people do.

Could be a coincidence but grease to do an air can service, don’t remember grease being mentioned only float fluid?

Got three fit for purpose 26ers, if it get to the point I can no longer maintain them I might just call it a day.

If I’m forced into buying big wheels it’ll be second hand, one thing I know for sure is I will never buy new again.

Calipers aligned/central to discs, pistons also balanced/central?

If not you’ll get excessive lever travel.

Not in my case, I only torque to 3 nm, think the maximum recommended is around 5 or 6 nm.

Lol

Owner clearly has no idea, who in their right mind would run a crossmark as a front tyre?

Lakes_Puma – Member

It could well have I can’t remember, is that bad?

Dunno to be honest, mine lost air after I’d left it stored in a compressed state, pumped it up and its be fine since.

The air pressure goes up when they’re compressed, perhaps there’s enough pressure to bypass the seals if they’re left like that for any extended period.

Just wondering about your logic on the above chiefgrooveguru. Why would you use the CS less with a 30T as compared to a double?

Probably something to do with the anti squat characteristics. They’re supposed to pedal best in the 32t ring, I’m still trying to get to grips with it, hopefuly someone will be along to explain how it works.

Anyone?

Had it been sitting with the post compressed?

Hard to see past a Pike, perhaps?

By all accounts the new 36 is comparible but costs close to a grand.

Thanks for the review, surprised its not been mentioned on here, good thread about it over on rotoburn, Steves popped up and gone into some detail as to how this works with various frame designs, its an interesting read.

@Skydragon I was thinking of giving this a go on my (slighty reggresive) 😉 Orange Five, did you purchase direct and if so what was the total bill including handling etc, I worked it out to around £84.00 without import and handling charges?

Ta.

That’s how I run my seat. Much better seated climbing. No other drawbacks as that’s the only time I’m in the saddle.

+1