Don’t know what that video is trying to achieve.

Pushing a cable tie down the seals with the fork compressed, will, once re-inflated, create a vacuum in the lowers, this happens because the air in the lowers (when in a compressed state) is displaced by the upper stanchions. You re-inflate and the vacuum you’ve created acts as secondary negative spring and causes an imbalance between positive and negative chambers.

The shock absorbing hammer won’t be helping!

Presumably it must have been better in some way than the pinch bolt setup….

If I where to hazard a guess, easier/cheaper to produce.

What year is the bike?

You could try a 9 speed slx (m665) double specific front mech, has a shorter cage, no issues on my mates 2009 Trance.

Re:- your triple, if you’ve moved it down put it back in the original position it was in before you removed the big ring, you’ll have a large gap between middle and front mech but thats just how it is unless you fit a double specific.

What about bleeding with the old pads in, once bled loosen the bleed nipple, place a rag around it to absorb excess fluid and then push the pistons home?

Yeah that 243 will be too much (had a bit of a read up on their site), have now ordered some 222.

Stem bolts are 5nm, chainring bolts are only 4nm due to poly bashring, its more for reassurance, its not like anything’s coming loose.

Thanks again.

Cheers, didn’t want to use it and then find I’m unable to get the bolts undone.

Salomon make some nice comfy/lightweight multi-use boots, have a pair of their synapse mids, they have been excellent (comfortable, supportive, waterproof and lightweight).

@ktow75 Ignore this piss takers. 🙄

They will be fine, you just need to fit longer spokes and 27.5″ specific nipples.

Mine took around 8 days.

I don’t care a dman what people do in their own homes but I do care if they drive while smoking.

Why?

edited

Would try some carbon grip paste

@breninbeener

Now at proper PC, link to KTM bag… £31.00 delivered direct from KTM.

http://www.ktm-shop.nl/ktm-bicycle/bike-parts/saddlebags/saddle-bag-velcro-tour-xl.html

Just had a look but cant find them listed, maybe they have sold out.

There was a guy on ebay selling them for £38.00. Search ebay for “Fat Bike Mountain Bike Road Bike Mtb touring seat saddle bag 18ltr ktm”, sorry can’t provide a link as on a mobile device, just checked and he’s got one left.

Seller is listed as hullkrrichie.

Available from ktm.nl for £31.00 delivered, bought one last week, not waterproof so dry bag would also be needed as a liner.

Oh and Park Tension Meter on its way to me in the post in the morning…

You wouldn’t have had these issues had you have used one from the start.

The tyre rolling off the rim feeling is a symptom of insufficient tension, been there done it, then used a guage.

Re:- The flat tyre effect, does it feel like the tyres rolling off the rim?

All forks should be reassembled with stanchions fully extended, failure to do this will create a vacuum in the lowers (when re-extended), this vacuum acts like a secondary negative spring sucking the forks into their travel.

Now I’m getting this strong urge to go out and set better times.

Is this what Strava does to people?

Wait until you get a top ten and that KOM is within touching distance.

I like it, I’m usually happy if I can get within the top 10%, unless^ happens.

Some people are less clever, they are usually poor ones.

I bet the people using food banks still have TV, phone and internet though.

If you really do struggle as said above ditch the tv phone car and internet.I spent several years on income support and survived without any of these luxuries.

Maybe you would have got a job quicker if you would have had a phone and an internet connection, they’re useful tools when looking for work.

Pretty sure a phone is a requirement these days, I don’t think you would be allowed to claim benefit without one.

As for cars, don’t see how anyone who’s been on benefits for any length of time could afford to run one, insurance alone would make it an unfeasible expense.

Regards DD (Unemployed, no car or internet)

Happy or do I need to get rid of my phone, perhaps I should give up my flat and go and live in a doorway?

Pretty Much!

Easton EC70,EA70 and Haven Bars on one, Easton Haven Stem, Havoc bars on another and finally Raceface Ride stem and Evolve bars on another.

F 2.5 Minion DHF EXO, R 2.3 Minion DHF ll EXO.

Surprised no one’s mentioned the Madison Flux, same shell as the Spoon but a bit more forgiving and kevlar sides.

bruneep – Member

Where is this takeaway?
Posted 1 hour ago #

behave yourself – they’ll be queueing at the door once they know it was Al serving them

Posted 1 hour ago # Report-Post

If someone walked into my restaurant expectng to have their headset adjusted for free I’d show them the door.

No problems here running Maxxis Exo non tubeless.

26″ TR Minions are available, perhaps there’s a stock shortage.

Hopes original bearings lasted much longer than Enduro bearings in my front Pro 11.

Yes,

Mode convertor is located under the left hand shifter, it’s important that you push forward on the down shift slightly as you turn the screw from 3x to 2x otherwise it won’t go and you may break it, don’t force it.

edit: Should also be in middle ring when adjusting.

^This

This sleeve fixes an issue that is common to pretty much all air shocks namely the high initial rate, tuning won’t fix it.

Rockshox brought out the Debonair, Fox the evol and Vorsprung the Corset, no snake oil involved, it’s a genuine advance in air shock technology.

Some useful info below.

Hey mate, Steve from Vorsprung here. Sorry for the slow reply to emails – trying to reply to hundreds of them within a few days!

So let’s discuss the effect of different leverage rates, and how the stock sleeve and the Corset each work with them. Let’s consider that there are basically four main variants of leverage rate curve that exist on modern bikes:

LEVERAGE RATE CURVE TYPES:
1. Linear – no substantial change in leverage ratio throughout the travel. Example – Yeti SB66C.
2. Progressive only – leverage ratio drops throughout the travel. Example – Rocky Mountain Altitude; lots of DH bikes.
3. Progressive to linear/digressive – leverage ratio drops throughout the first 2/3 of the travel, then either flattens out or increases again towards the end of the travel. This is THE MOST COMMON leverage rate found on bikes designed around air springs. Example – Specialized Stumpy/Enduro, Banshee Rune, Pivot Mach 6, Ibis Mojo HD.
4. Digressive-linear-progressive – leverage ratio INCREASES (this is known as a falling rate because the spring rate at the wheel falls, not because the leverage rate falls), flattens out (linear) then drops again (progressive). Examples – pretty much all VPP bikes where the shock is driven off the top link; Nomad/Tracer/Bronson/Carbine/Blur/etc.

Let’s also consider the characteristics of an air spring in general: they are Digressive (starts stiff, gets softer) to Linear (stays soft) to Progressive (starts soft, gets stiff). That characteristic exists on all current air springs (DRCV being a semi-exception… long story for another day) to some degree. The Corset and the Debonair both have a far less extreme version of this than the stock Fox sleeves, but it’s still there as you can see from the spring rate curve graph posted a few pages back.

Anyway, let’s look at how each of the previously mentioned leverage rates works with each of the Fox and the Vorsprung spring curves:

1. LINEAR leverage rate aka constant leverage ratio (note that the words rate and ratio are not interchangeable; ratio is a number at a given point in the travel, rate refers to the shape of the curve).
Resultant wheel spring curve with Fox spring: same shape as the Fox spring curve, just multiplied by a constant number (scales it up/down) which is the leverage ratio. This means you end up with a falling rate (stiff but becoming soft) initial stroke, a low spring rate (soft) in the mid stroke, and an increasing spring rate (soft but becoming stiff) at the end of the stroke. Initial stroke is stiff, meaning low sag, which can be good for climbing geometry because it keeps the seat tube steeper and more weight on the front wheel. Mid stroke is soft, which usually means people want that to be stiffer for descending support, which in turn makes the initial stroke even stiffer and harsher. End stroke can be tuned by volume spacers to achieve whatever ramp you need to prevent frequent bottom out, but running suspension too soft and relying on sudden end stroke ramp creates harshness too because you end up just running into a wall of resistance.
Resultant wheel spring curve with Corset: same shape as the Corset spring curve. Compared to the Fox spring curve, far softer initially and firmer in the middle. Once again, end stroke can be tuned with volume spacers to achieve whatever ramp-up you need. This means you run more sag (can be bad if you already have a bike with a slack seat tube angle (eg SB66) and climb a lot of steep stuff (the kind of stuff where you’re just about breaking your shifter trying to find an easier gear that doesn’t exist… pretty well all the climbs in Whistler!) because the front wheel will try to lift up more. On most bikes the difference isn’t anywhere near that much though, because despite running more sag, the mid stroke spring rate is quite a bit stiffer, so the settle point when your weight is shifted backwards is closer to what you’d get with the Fox sleeve. Descending, more sag gives more traction, firmer mid stroke means more support on bigger hits and compressions as well as a more predictable and lively feel.
Net result: Unquestionable improvement here, in my honest opinion.

2. PROGRESSIVE (only) leverage rate:
Resultant wheel spring curve with Fox sleeve: high initial leverage helps somewhat to overcome the stiff initial air spring feeling, but unless it’s progressive enough, the mid-stroke is still very soft – and if it IS that progressive then it ends up ramping like crazy at the end of the travel. Cross multiply the progressive end stroke of the leverage rate with the progressive spring curve of the air shock, and you’re either going to have something that sits at excessively high sag or makes it far too difficult to use full travel. Basically, progressive end strokes don’t mix well with air shocks, it’s very hard to get them sorted in such a way that the mid stroke is sufficiently supported without crazy end stroke ramp, although they do feel reasonably good off the top of the travel usually. That said, no frame I’ve ever examined has been anywhere near as progressive in the early stroke as a Fox air spring is DIGRESSIVE in the same travel – to do so you’d have to have the leverage ratio drop by at least a factor of five in the first 15mm of the travel, which would mean your leverage ratio probably starts at about 15:1… this is also very bad (gen 1 V10 had something almost like that) and it causes a lot of play at the start of the travel due to the immense leverage on both pivots and shock.
Resultant wheel spring curve with Corset: High initial leverage ratio combined with relatively linear spring curve provides very plush feel initially, mid-stroke support somewhat better, end stroke still over-supported and hard to use full travel – Corset can’t fix that.
Net result of the Corset: Better small bump absorption, marginal improvements in mid-stroke, but can’t fix the excessive end stroke ramp. Overall, relatively minor gain – you’d have to design an air spring specifically for this application in order to make it work well, but fortunately most bikes don’t use this configuration unless they’re intended for use with coil sprung shocks.

3. PROGRESSIVE-TO-LINEAR/DIGRESSIVE leverage rate:
Resultant wheel spring curve with Fox sleeve: high initial leverage helps somewhat to overcome the stiff initial air spring feeling, but unless it’s progressive enough early enough, the mid-stroke is still relatively soft compared to the initial stroke. However, because the leverage rate flattens out (linear rate) or increases again (digressive rate) you do get better mid-stroke support with this, since you can run higher air pressures without causing crazy end-stroke ramp up. However, what we’re really looking for overall, from start to finish, is an increase in wheel spring rate of about 55-65% overall (once shock spring rate curve has been multiplied through the leverage rate curve), which corresponds roughly to a coil-sprung bike with a leverage rate that starts 25-30% higher than it ends (progressive). This is slightly lower than what’s been shown to work very well on both DH bikes and MX bikes, though most air-sprung bikes don’t need quite that level of big-hit performance. In order for this to happen with existing Fox sleeves, we’d need to see frames with ~3-4x their existing initial progression, but only for the first 20mm or so of travel, before becoming comparatively linear throughout the rest of the stroke. This doesn’t currently exist in anything I’ve seen.
Resultant wheel spring curve with Corset sleeve: much closer to the performance of a coil shock (on a bike that’s well designed for a coil shock, not on the same frame!) because the leverage rate change can effectively cancel the slight falling initial rate of the Corset, the supportive mid-stroke of the leverage curve cuts the actual drop in spring rate at the wheel down to zero (or can even allow for a truly progressive spring rate in quite a controlled manner) without causing the excessive end stroke ramp. Once again, you can tune the end stroke with volume spacers.
Net result: Corset provides distinct improvements in bump absorption, support and liveliness. This combination is in my opinion the highest performance currently available from an air shock and linkage curve, on an only semi-related note.

4. DIGRESSIVE-LINEAR-PROGRESSIVE leverage rates:
Resultant spring curve with Fox sleeve: Low initial leverage (stiff) combined with high initial spring rate (stiff) = very stiff initial stroke. High mid-stroke leverage (soft) combined with low mid-stroke spring rate (soft) = very soft initial stroke. Low end-stroke leverage (stiff) combined with high end-stroke spring rate (stiff) = very stiff end stroke. As a result, you get a very stiff feel at the start of the stroke, like there’s tons of preload on the suspension, followed by an unsupportive mid-stroke that is prone to feeling wallowy, which eventually runs into a fairly abrupt wall of progression at the end of the stroke. Good in that you don’t bottom out easily, bad in that if you run higher air pressures for mid stroke support, the early and late stroke segments are just much too stiff.
Resultant spring curve with Corset: Comparatively low initial spring rate reduces the effects of the low (stiff) initial leverage rate and makes the early stroke much softer feeling. You can now run higher pressures for more mid-stroke support without making the early stroke feel too stiff. End stroke is still somewhat progressive – once again, no air spring system out there can really fix an excessively progressive ending stroke of the leverage rate curve – so achieving full travel can still be difficult.
Net result: much better overall in terms of support and bump compliance, but still the end stroke progression issues may remain – removal of any/all volume spacers in the shock is recommended in most cases.

I hope this has helped clear up how the Corset can work for you. Basically, the summary of all of the above is that the Corset is better in pretty well all scenarios, except the following:
1. Frames that already struggle with steep climbs due to slack seat tube angles and/or short chainstays will be worse at climbing. No ifs or buts, it’s just harder if you have more sag. Frames that have steeper seat tube angles, longer chainstays etc (basically the frames that already climb well) won’t be affected to the same degree… I have plenty of personal experience with this!
2. Frames with excessive ending stroke ramp up already will still have those issues – that wasn’t something that we could really address without requiring pressures of 400+psi for the average rider. That’s not to say that the Corset will be any worse, just that it won’t fix that issue. As a general rule, it’ll still perform better overall, but it’s not perfect.
3. If your damper is improperly tuned for your frame (usually as a result of being switched out aftermarket, the ones that come with the bike are generally reasonable), in need of service/repair, this can’t fix that. That’d be like changing your handlebars and hoping it somehow makes your tyres more grippy.

Is it the magic pill solution to every issue with every frame? Unfortunately nope. We’ve legitimately done our best to make this as good as it can be, and this is the ceiling of what we found to be possible. I can confidently say that on 99% of bikes it will make your suspension work distinctly better.

Steering will be a touch slower, your weight will be a tad further forward due to your arms being slightly further apart.

If needs must, both can be corrected by fitting a slightly shorter stem, would give it a few weeks with the longer bars before deciding whether shorter stem is necessary.

Don’t write it off just yet!

Phone needs a good view of the sky, needs to be in ouside pocket of bag.

Mine won’t work in bottom of bag or chest pocket etc (samsung S4 mini)

2nd what Deveron said.

Fresh reboot also helps ime.

Wet and dry used wet should be safe.

Photos when done, I have an ec70 that could do with the same.

+1

Merlin Cycles also have them in stock, 7 quid each.

Don’t think you can as Avid use washers under the caliper in order to get the correct spacing.

Shimano are post mount so you will need post to whatever your bike mounts are, front most likely post, rear most likely IS.

Same with old one’s ime, fit something with more volume.

Light and tough, pick one.

Thanks, when i let all the air out of the shock it fully compresses to end of shaft, so I presume no spacer.

No, could still be a spacer in there, volume spacer increases the ramp up at end of stroke, shock would still fully compress to end of shaft with air removed.

Reckon the DHF will be marginally faster but there’ll be sod all in it.

IMHO a narrower wheel will have less rolling resistance than a larger one

There’s good evidence that suggests the oposite is true

http://www.mtbonline.co.za/downloads/Rolling_Resistance_Eng_illustrated.pdf

Might be worth checking there’s no volume spacer in the the shock,it’s unlikely but it can’t hurt to have a look, wouldn’t spray anything on your pivots, they’re sealed cartridge bearings.

Send them back, they’ll be exchanged.

Make ride private and then public.

Go to the ride in question, click on the spanner on left hand side of screen, select private and then public.