It’s not XC bike, big wheels slack angles, you probably just need to use more body language and be a bit more aggressive with it.

Real world tyre sizes here

http://www.reifenbreiten-datenbank.de/

As I let the air out the beads pop off the rim

Got a Rocket Ron that does that.

To some they look like filing cabinets, the same people will tell you they’ve not changed in fifteen years or whatever it is, I don’t think they realise how stupid it makes them look.

Convenient and taste better than water, as above, not a food substitute though.

…..don’t set off on a section straight after some other person – then you are less likely to have an impact on yours or their section.

And without so much as a cursory glance, some bloke and his bird rides straight pass and straight down the stretch of trail you’ve been waiting to clear. 😈

Bloke on our street killed both parents with a hammer.

I move over if I hear tyres behind, its annoying when others don’t.

Neither, they’re M5 x 18 but have a captured washer so 17mm of available thread, just measured one.

Thats ^ a good find, thought they’d been discontinued.

Yes travel can be reduced by fitting Fox spacers, I run my talas/float 36 at 150mm.

Think travel can be reduced to 100mm if required.

New chainring time…or fit old chain and cassette and ride into ground.

Had this last week with a Deore chainset…my moneys on it needing new bearings, as above, grease everything first in order to rule out bb shell, pedals, splined interface etc.

Here’s a breakdown…

Tubed setup 2x Maxxis 2.5 Minions @ 860 grams each, 2x Conti MTB light tubes at 130 grams each, cloth rim tape x2 15 gram each? = 2010 grams

Tubeless 2x Maxxis 2.5 Minions @ 860 grams each, 2x 60ml sealant per tyre (as per Stans instructions) @ 120grams per tyre , 2x valves @ 15 grams pair, 2x Stans tape @ 7 gram each = 1989 grams.

So a grand saving of approx 20 grams.

If you aren’t are saving some weight going tubeless you are where doing it wrong

FTFY

Sounds ok if it’s in good condition.

Electric hob, heat pads until they stop smoking, then wet and dry, use dry on the pads and wet on the dics with a bit of washing-up liquid, has not failed me yet.

Milk, before and after.

The protein slows things down meaning more fluid is retained by your body.

Playing Devils advocate…what’s to say it wasn’t the torx bolt out of tolerance, maybe it had been overtightened and the head enlarged?

Formula do use shit bolts(IMO).

and dont want to have to disconnect a remote every time.

Why, it’s one bolt, 30 seconds to get take it off, 30 seconds to put it back on?

Chain that the chain is correctly routed around jockey wheels and it’s not rubbing on that metal tab?

Had a float x done on my 5010 (but its got a vorsprung corset too) – massively better in mid stroke where I was finding it blowing through before.

Still blowing through after fitting the Corset, been seriously considering one?

No probs, unless they’re floating Hope rotors.

Berghaus Vapour

http://m.thehut.com/elysium.search?search=berghaus+vapour

Only xl and xxl though and 100.00

Never heard of them, might be something new.

Only ever used the shimano fold over tabs, can’t imagine how they’d be much use under the bolts heads anyway, got a photo of them?

Why the hate for an extendable lead?
People outside walking their dog instead of being inside watching Judge Rinder can surely only be a good thing.

The dog is not running around out of control biting mountain bikers. It’s on a lead FFS.

Unless it’s dark with the owner on one side of the road/path and the dog on the other ime.

The grip they provide is in another league to trainers, however, if your happy with the grip your trainers provide, stick with them, it’s not like they’re not going to turn you into a riding god.

Have you checked that they’re not marked left and right, my poc bones are? Labelling is not immediately obvious, would check all the labels/tabs.

That video is utter crap!

It solves nothing, the method demonstrated leaves a vacuum in the lowers when the forks are reinflated.

If your forks are leaking air into the lowers and need burping then do it whilst at full extension, not in a semi compressed state.

I think in the general scheme of things it barely matters, lets sort out world poverty then we can worry about what someone is or isn’t wearing.

You can leave it all behind quite easily even within the UK.

But not the weather.

However, hard as it may be to believe, it would appear that the dust and wiper seals are now so good that they are effectively air tight, so the lowers are also a sealed system. Since the volume of the lowers changes as the forks are compressed they act as another air “spring”. There are two things that can happen here. First, as in my case, the pressure in the lowers can increase with use (for reasons I don’t understand) and prevent you getting full travel. Sticking a zip tie down between the seal and the stanchion can release this pressure and restore travel. Second, if you do the zip tie “trick” at full compression or have the forks compressed when you assemble them, you can have a negative pressure in the lowers, which will cause the forks to suck down.

So, it seems to just be an unintended consequence of improvements in the dust and wiper seals. The solution would be to put a pressure release valve in the lowers, which fox apparently do with their 40 series forks, but that’s not common.

I hope that’s some help to somebody and I’m sure that, if there are errors in my understanding, somebody will be along soon to correct them.

To my understanding that’s spot on and yes symptoms can be similar to the blocked port issue.

When I had my Five, a 2.3 tyre would catch the seatube on full compression. 650b wheels simply wouldn’t fit.

2.5 Minion is very close on mine, you would have to run a low profile tyre, would be surprised if anything larger than a 2.1/27.5″ would fit.

No issue with brakes providing they’ve been bled properly.

Pretty sure you can’t swap out a 26″ swingarm for a 27.5″ as the pivot location/means of attachment has changed, would double check with Orange though.

Aye, ruined.

I’ve upgraded my tubeless valves to black Alu ones. Saved 3g the pair so it’s not just for looks

Same here but topped off with green KCNC valve caps to tie in with the frame, the vast majority of bolts have been swapped out for black ti or black alloy where possible, told myself I wasn’t going to do it…again.

+1 What gives you think that?

Just be carefull if you google it.

rather than on trying to look like something it isn’t?

Looks sell, performance won’t come into it. If it looks like a mountain bike it must be a mountain bike “Look it’s got suspension and everything and it’s only £130.00”

Too much oil in damper?

Would pull damper cartridge out and see if your able to obtain full travel.