Are you able to achieve full travel with all the air removed?

I know the air charts aren’t accurate but ime they’re not that far out, recommended 105 vs actual 45, eh? Sorry but that just doesn’t sound right.

Send them back, not worth messing with when they’re under warranty.

Loads of riding if you know the area, best bet would be to speak to Lavatrax. Used them a few years ago and they were excellent.

Less material means that power goes into heating them quicker, and less surface area means they can’t dissipate that heat as quickly.

Surely a fat chunk of metal will take longer to heat up and cool down than thin piece.

I suspect they heat up quicker and cool quicker.

IME pads don’t last as long in heavily holed rotors as they do in standard. I destroyed a set of EBC resin pads on one dry lap of the Marin with Ashima rotors, only run sintered with them now for that very reason.

Would I be right in thinking that a dry air spring would have a more pronounced impact on fork sensitivity than the compression assembly, give the larger diameter seals and possibly tighter tolerances to create the seal?

IMO The inner stanchion sliding up and down over the air Seal head makes up a good portion of the overall stiction, even if it’s not dry the old fluid will have broken down to some extent and lost some of its lubricating properties.

Only a ten minute job to unscrew air cap, have a wipe around and refresh fluid.

Shimano brand mineral oil used.

Is the master cylinder in the brake lever?
If so, would that cause an ever slight liquid squish noise when operated?

Yeah master cylinder is in the lever, there seems to have been a spate of these lately, I would be looking at a warranty claim if they are still under 2 years old, I know of a few who have had them replaced under warranty.

Issues been going on for years

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/shimano-xt-traile-brakes-problem-with-the-lever-any-ideas

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/xt-brake-levers-not-returning

I believe it’s a recognised issue which has been addressed on the new XT, for the life of me I can’t remember where I read it.

What they said, what fluid did you use to bleed them?

What about the 5ml of float fluid that keeps the air piston and inner stanchion lubed, did you renew that?

Bet you didn’t, no one does, don’t know why.

Oh, and Fox 20wt gold lower leg lube works much better than their 10wt (do it all) green damper fluid

Do it again 😉

never heard a bad word about them.

Had a couple of pairs over the years, build my own now, couldn’t see the point of having to retension theirs, and that was before they’d been used, finger tight nipples don’t cut it.

Pad/disc mismatch, certain pads work better with certain discs.

Threads like this remind me that I need to get out more.

Great stuff!

Put the front on the granny ring and its not an issue.

There’s nothing wrong with your chainline it’s the way your using it,
once you get down to around 3rd gear drop to the granny.

Middle and outer chain ring always presents a problem…

Why are you trying to use the middle and outer rings across the full range of the cassette when you have a triple, just because you can doesn’t mean you should?

Shimano have always advised that you should maintain as straight a chainline as possible, as far as I know nothings changed on that front.

Always start and finish on the opposite side to the valve.

Amazed at how many people don’t do, and or know this.

Are they TR Maxxis?

ht. It’s a rock garden that’s a straightforward “point and shoot” in isolation, but is preceded by a tight hairpin that I simply can’t get round to line me up for the rocky bit.

Its a bastard, left hand swithcback straight into dropoff and then the rock gardens, there’s hardly any time to get the bike back upright before hitting dropoff.

One of the most challenging sections of any trail center I’ve been to.

Agree with the OP to a certain extent in so much as most blacks do tend to flatter a rider abilities.

Speaking for myself…this leads to a big skills gap between what’s required to be able to comfortably ride blacks and the progression required to ride basic downhill, Gisburn for example.

These are being sold as Arch not Arch EX.Do they have the same bead?

If I remember correctly Arches are only 19mm internally whereas Arch EXs are 21mm and have thicker nipple beds, this allowed for an increase in recommended spoke tension over previous Arch.

Not sure about the bead seat, don’t ever remember them being redesigned though.

Think it looks great, I’m all for them personally.

Could be wrong but I think they’re going to be a big thing.

Not doing it and really wouldn’t fancy it in the rain, best of luck to those that are though.

X2 doesn’t appear to be holding Arron Gwin back, probably custom tuned but never the less.

Out if interest anyone using a ccdb air in downhill?

Thats not a sly dig at the CCDB air by the way, genuinely wondering whether anyone’s running one.

Less leverage

Agreed…same width bars with shorter stem will give less leverage, but on the flip side more sensitive to steering input.

Apologies, didnt read your post properly.

According to uk climbing forum its a legit site, same as bergzeit.de and one of the top outdoor german retailers.

Dirtydog – it was quoted in the original ST article about Boost last year.

http://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/trek-launch-boost-148-29r-specific-hub/

Thanks for that, so according to that it should bring stiffness inline with an equivalently built non boost 26″.

Have to wonder why they didn’t introduce this when they introduced 29, would have made things much more straightforward.

Can’t decidie if they’re being a bit clever or are just a bit slow.

Seems like a daft idea for a ‘scam’.

Did it a couple of years ago when it was the Merida. It will be fine if the weather plays nice, its a mixture of road, fireroad and singletrack, the singletrack bits could get interesting if it rains.

Take care on some of the road sections, some are high speed and they can be bone dry in places and then slippy wet under shaded areas, don’t drop your guard and get caught out.

As above

If previous incremental improvements are anything to go by then *** all.

Has anyone actually published any figures on relative stiffness/deflection between boost and non boost, can’t be that hard to do.

The cynic in me thinks it will be about 0.34% hence the lack of any published figures.

Wider bars will open the cockpit up, fit bars, then if necessary, tweek reach with stem.

Wide bars on on a long stem won’t necessarily make the bike twitchy, went from 660 x 90 to 710 x 90, the steering is less sensitive than it was with 660 bars.

Not always sure what people mean when they say twitchy, can mean different things to different folks, I usually take it to mean nervous or sensitive. Can’t see how wider bars would increase sensitivity or make the bike any more nervous.

Just sounds like air in this system.

They weren’t targeted as coppers.

Officer was proven to be a term of phrase.

Probably worth letting Bike Register know about, they have several thousand followers up and down the country.

Tweets by bikeregister

Like…

Seem to recall Hope rotors (or at least the old ones) are 5mm bigger diameter than standard, so these will be 165mm I guess. Fingers crossed this has sorted it!

Think I have my lines crossed here, from your new description it’s the very outer edge rubbing due to the increased diameter of the Hope 165mm rotors over Shimanos 160mm ie not lateral rubbing as I previously thought, if it is then I still see no reason why 5mm of washers or a 5mm spacer wouldn’t be fine, Avid design theirs to use washers (Tri Align).

Ah, so I assume the caliper cannot be aligned over rotor, no reason not to add a washer as that’s how they used to do it.

I’ve have had to do the same on one of my bikes and that runs a full Shimano setup, discs hubs and all, I have put it down to a tolerance issue with rear frame mount, as per your post front is fine.

Default answer is

http://www.reifenbreiten-datenbank.de/reifen-Maxxis-Minion%20DHR%20II-27.5×2.30.html

http://www.reifenbreiten-datenbank.de/reifen-Schwalbe-Magic%20Mary-27.5×2.35.html

Damm beaten to it!

Bollox!

Got another wheel you could try, you need to rule the disk out?

Front is same brake but shimano 6bolt disc, on a Shimano hub. No rubbing at all. Rear disc does have a very slight warp, but the brake drags throughout the rotation. Even at the stiffest point in the rotation, a squeeze of the brakes shows both pistons moving.

Can you swap the disks around to rule it out?

Are you running the same disk/setup on the front and are you having issues with that, if not then you can rule the actual disk out?

As far as setup is concerned don’t just pull the lever and rely on the pistons to line things up, it’s an unreliable way of doing it IME. Align caliper to disk by eye, only then make sure pistons are aligned evenly left and right and contacting the disk at the same time.

Just looking at the shock again, do you think its also worth replacing the ‘axle’ (the bit the bolts screw into) too ?

No.

If you’ve got time on your hands you could do it yourself but expect it to take a day or more to make templates then cut out and apply, much quicker second time around though once you have the templates.

Not a bad price really if you take into account it’s going to cost around twenty quid for enough 3M tape and a day or more to make and fit.

Could be an issue with blocked transfer port or could be caused by a vacuum in the lower legs sucking them down.

You could try pushing a cable tie or similar down past the dust and oil seals this will allow the pressure in the lowers to equalise with atmospheric pressure, seems a common issue if the lowers have been off and re-inflated without them being fully extended. I appreciate your lowers have not been off but it’s worth a try and will rule out the vacuum theory meaning it will be almost definitely be caused by a blocked transfer port.

If they’re dual air check the negative air spring pressure.

Negative needs to be within 10psi of positive pressure, if it’s too low in relation to the positive they will top out.