overlaps that aren’t really overlaps unless you are clumsy enough to change a front ring and then crank the chain back 5-6 sprockets.

+1 its a poor argument used to justify the latest 1X.

Me, no other way of doing 25+ mph without going mental.

My bikes get used both on and off road, sometimes pulling a trailer or carrying bags of shopping, sometimes not. I have no intention of throwing a load of cash on a drive train which will give little or no benefit over what I have now, spinning at 120rpm in order to make decent headway on downhill road sections isn’t a good look either imo.

Think of it as a 3x 1x.

The Lyrik (and Yari) have bigger negative to positive ratio, which gives them a better start feel,

I suspect next years Pike will get the same treatment and close the performance gap between the 36, most reviews suggest the Lyric has better small bump compliance because of it (than the Pike).

It’s gone full circle, Hope. :D

SLX, unless you want on the fly reach adjust, in which case XT.

Minion 2.5/2.3 DHF EXO front and Ardent 2.4/2.25 EXO rear.

Actual tyre sizes can be found here

http://www.reifenbreiten-datenbank.de/

You’re making the mistake of thinking that the first stage of the process is getting the tyre lever under. First you want to gather all the slack at the valve, and you do that by starting opposite the valve.

Yes, this.

and

because the valve sits high in the rim-well and takes up space that the beads need in order to give slack to get over the rim on the opposite side. If you start with the beads sat deep in the well on the other side from the valve, by the time you get round to the valve side, you have plenty of slack to slip the bead over the rim.

Your welcome. :D

Loads, normal for 1x, have you tried pedalling backwards in the 42?

When removing or refitting tyres always start opposite the valve and finish at the valve.

Amazing the amount of people who don’t do this and struggle as a result.

Thats the one Ecky, was just about to post the link.

There’s a few ‘I know better than Shimano’ types who could do with reading it!

Wide range 11-36 equals less shifting between front rings even with a triple, it’s not just about having ‘low enough’ gearing.

SLX

re fitted the lowers and fully compressed the lowers and torque set the bottom bolts,

Did you bolt the lowers up whilst the stanchions where fully compressed or fully extended?

If compressed then you will have created a vacuum in the lowers when you re-inflated, if this is the case undo the lower leg bolts and release the lowers, this will allow the pressure in lowers to equalize with atmospheric pressure (no need to remove) and retighten blots/crush washer. Alternatively with forks fully extended push a cable tie down past the dust/oil seals, this will also allow the pressure to equalize.

There’s no doubt plastics degrade over time when exposed to UV, it’s been well documented and understood within the plastics industry for years, they use UV stabilisers to delay the onset of it.

Common ‘issue’ IME (if you can call it that), as long as it’s all inline and gears index correctly when tight I wouldn’t worry.

Can’t understand why your wheel doesn’t sit right if the dropout alignment has been checked, tried a different wheel, axle straight?

Try clearing the cache, could be corrupt file.

Won’t be the pads, either air in the system or seals are gone, hopefully a bleed will fix it.

Just caught a bit on the News, yeah, can now frak in National Parks.

That remains to be seen, will be a lot of opposition.

The link has a pin half way through it just like an old 8 speed chain. Aren’t Shimano chains supposed to have funny breakable pins or something?

The one I bought recently didn’t, just a pin half way through that I pushed in with a chain tool. No longer a guide pin to break off, it’s already half way through, it doesn’t need one.

Or precursor to a widening of the war between Sunni and Shia.

Neither side needs to be looking for excuses now to spoil for a fight now, It all started going wrong for Sunni and Shi-ah a long time ago – around the time of the release of their fifth album ‘All I ever need is you’ in 1971.

Brilliantly dry/subtle, got as far as “fifth album” before I realized what was going on, deserves some recognition.

Glad I checked back :lol:

Some Deore leave the factory with little or no grease in them, had no issues with XT.

@trickydicky

The issue was mentioned in a recent review (can’t remember where I saw it), it only did it in the 42 when pedalling backwards, don’t think there was a fix for it despite them fitting chainring spacers.

Dog – why no different to standard?

Should have said no noticeable difference to standard.

I’m cynical.

180/160 however that’s on a 26″ so will be of no use at all.

Why Daesh it’s always been Isis/Isil, why are the media/politicians now referring to them as Daesh?

Twice the price and will be no different to standard pads.

edit: I take that back as you do get four pairs, bet there still no different to standard though.

Dirtydog ye I done lower leg when swapped the air shaft.compressed the lowers as per the video I was following for service and air shaft swap

That will be the issue,video should be removed.

In this case you definitely have a vacuum in the lower legs. I have just been around this loop myself. you need to reassemble with the air shaft fully extended. If they are already assembled slide a small cable tie down the side of the dust seal on both legs. Wait for the hiss and watch your forks come back to the correct travel.

This^, always reassemble with air shafts fully extended!

@nedrapier With Stans tape on stans rims one wrap does it.

Will be looking into that tesa tape, @ssboggy nice one.

Can also be caused by vacuum in lowers.

Serviced them recently, reassembled whilst stanchions compressed?

Double post, bloody mobile.

Muc off wet is the worst chain lube I’ve ever used.

It’s too thin and drys into a mess that resembles black sticky tarmac, it’s very difficult to remove even with degreaser.

Back on Finishline Wet, yes its messy but at least I can get my drivetrain clean inbetween applications.

So what makes LMH safe to use and non LMH oils unsafe, isn’t LMH just French for liquid mineral hydrolique or words to that effect?

Mineral oils are not all the same, it’ a fact that Magura blue blood destroys Shimano seals!

Patterdale Mountain Rescue reporting their base is Flooded

Oops defences

@martinhutch

Just been on Sky news those defenses have now been breached, suspect it will get worse before it gets better.

Looks great as do the photos.

Designed to be used with 24/34 rings so pretty close to your requirements, chain rub might be an issue?

From my results, the chain would then get thrown “off” over the outside of the new outer, 32T in your case.

Was also an issue for me.

I’m going with spoke tension.

Shimano 10 speed triples are designed to work around 24/32/42 rings so will work perfectly well with 24/32 and 22/32,however, there will be a large gap between outer plate and 32 ring. If I understood your original post correctly I thought this was something you were trying to avoid?

but I’m concerned that the front mech is a bit high and I can’t move it down any further (outer plate is ~10mm above the teeth)

I wouldn’t write off your current mech unless you’ve tried it.

Would a 3×10 front mech reach lower down to cover the 32 and have a more appropriate swing angle? Shimano make them bu5 to cover 24/32 or 22/30 not 22/32. Would that matter?

You’ll have an even larger gap where the 42 would have gone. Double is your best bet. Pretty shit direct mount if your running non standard rings.

Surely the STW sages can’t have come up short on this one?

From what I’ve read the default answer is to ditch the front mech and go 1X.