depends on the rooms accessed from the 3pm and 9pm doors as to if I’d start on the shorter walls.
But, if do you want it running in the orientation you suggest, then A, unquestionably. Measure off wall a to make sure a full board at the doorway threshold gives you a decent last board under the kickplates (i.e. you dont want a joint then a sliver of board before it hits the kitchen cabinets. If it does, adjust the width of your first board run to suit.
Pull your skirting boards and pull your kickplates. Don’t half arse it with 1/4 round.

Following

Whilst cementious grout isn’t waterproof it doesn’t let significant amounts of water through when intact.
Id be more inclined to suggest that with the shower tiled on an exterior wall, you’ve shifted the dew point to the wood panel which isn’t particularly dimensionally stable and has probably swollen at some point enough to crack the grout. Water has then been able to get in through the cracks and saturate the plasterboard over time.

Tear it all out, get rid of the wood panel and tank whatever moisture stable substrate you have on your wall before tile. Kerdi board would be a good option on an exterior wall.

how come the fence is hanging off the posts and not set between the posts?
Fence would’ve been the same from both side that way.
Solution would be to have him chop those posts, sit them atop the block wall and bolt them in place.
Could even have used the existing angle iron to add strength

How olds the house? What state is the subfloor in, what’s the existing flooring? Is the bath freestanding or in an alcove? If freestanding, are you installing it on top of large format tile
The deflection of the flooring for tile is probably the bigger concern.

Shifting still hard with the clutch off?

Corian is quartz right..
It’ll make a significant amount of dust cut dry. You also need to have radius at inside corners to prevent stress risers particularly for a drop in cook top.

You’ll need a thermal break if you want a meaningful difference. Not sure what a 3mm thick thermal paper product will do.
What’s wrong with the window walls? You could trim them out to hide the drywall edges as opposed to finishing the returns.

Re shoving the board up agains osb. Still won’t do much if you have air getting round it.

I assume he means gap above the foam not gaps between the foam edge and studs.
A 1-2″ Gap between the foam and sheathing would be correct assuming there’s a way for that air to be exchanged from sofit to ridge.

In a new build residential space, air tightness is a critical part of the building envelope. OSB is in 4×8 (or 10) sheets here so there’ll be a gap unless your building is only 4ft tall…as you’ll be wanting to run these perp to the studs. So, the tyvec is an important part of the building envelope to prevent moisture being wind driven into the structure.

For longevity, studs, sheathing, tyvek w/taped seams, rainscreen plus insect screen, siding.
You could do board and batt style in reverse to create your 2 tone gap look. The siding is the primary weather barrier, not sure I’d compromise this.

Roof wise, a cold roof needs the deck venting and you absolutely need a water management layer..in which case you’re venting under the deck between the rafter bays above the insulation. Factor in how you are getting that air in and out too.
You can do an unvented cold roof but that would need a continuous membrane on both side of the roof deck. Spray foam below, peel and stick or torch on above.
Rubberised asphalt Peel and stick and you can secure the metal roof direct to the deck.
Vapor barrier inside (heated side it the insulation)
Rockwool is simple and friction fits way better than fiberglass ever did. Done right I don’t see sagging being an issue… But then I’ve not opened up any Roxul walls but have torn out plenty of sagged and ineffective fiberglass. I’ve also seen some shockingly installed new insulation that literally been trwown ad a wall in the hope it’ll stick. Rockwool is also super easy to account for wiring etc. Last build inside with some awkward corners I ended up doing the trouble spots before sheathing the studs. Gave much better access to the cavities in those places.
There’s plenty of newer building evolutions for framing and methods of removing thermal bridging of stud walls while still using batt type insulation. I like the less is more approach with stud work too.

Friends looked after a dog for a family who had to make a 2 year foreign move. Awesome lab who’d already been desensitized to little people and was pretty much treated as a body pillow by the new home kids. Lab never skipped a beat and went back to his family after a really happy time.
Youngest 2.5yo daughter from the foster family never learned boundaries as a result of that.. she’s now evidently a serial dog bothered and ended getting badly bitten in the face by the (wait for it) home based daycares dog. Yes, turns out there are no rules here against have a dog roam in a house with a group of kids.
Anyway, she bothered the dog to the point it had enough and let her know.
Parents pulled her from the daycare but the dog remains in the home, albeit now separated by a fence when kids are in the home.
Is the bitten girl afraid of dogs? No.
Does she have a permanent facial scar? Yes.
Are the family anti dogs? No, they actually have a new lab.
Does she still push the line of dog bothering? Frustratingly yes.

Would I get rid of my dog if it were the scenario you describe? I don’t think so, but it’s obviously an emotive decision that’s impossible to known how you’d deal with it till its forced upon you… Its also easier to get rid of the dog than to accept that the fault is human.

If your boy understands the cause and effect of what happened, I wouldn’t be giving up on the dog. Tough lesson learned hopefully.

I’m conflicted about the mortgage paydown merits…
We were paying $900 biweekly, making all the extra/over payments we could plus the 10% annual lump sum.
Basically doing what we could to speed up the paydown.
We had the option to empty all our cash savings and clear our mortgage which seemed like a great idea and I agree with those above saying how liberating it is to own your home.
However, whilst the intention was to stick those equivalent payments into other investments, the reality is far from that. The mortgage was a financial requirement, even with low income months we had to make those payments and we made them without dipping deeply into those savings accounts.
Since paying down, any additional investments into other products simply hasn’t happened as it’s “optional” unlike the mortgage repayments. So, realistically we have missed the opportunity to grow our wealth by some 40k (equivalent mortgage principal payments) in the 2 years since we paid down.
On the positive side, covid income reduction was not stressful like it could have been having to deal with the mortgage payments/deferrals etc.
Perhaps we’ve had a better quality of life, perhaps we’ve been subconsciously less stressed..but we still haven’t gained financially by making that paydown.
I’m actually thinking of remortgaging and using the cheap money in “better” investments.
Tldr, paying off your mortgage feels great but might not be the best financial move.

27.5+ forks are the same lowers as 29er forks from fox.
There is also a 34 27.5plus fork with a wider crown and consequently wider lowers..also fits 29.
So for fox, it it says 27.5+/29 you’re g2g.

My parents UK UFH thermostats are garbage. Not one has an operable screen anymore.
Anyway, if you don’t fancy measuring 240v and with your “history” you probably shouldn’t deal with anything live. So measuring the resistance range of your thermostat or indeed setting your thermostat to ambient heat vs floor heat would be a start.
I set 2 or 3 thermostats per floor for redundancy.
Presumably have a GFCI in your heating circuit so any broken heat cables would trip that.

Partial depth self poured ‘pads’ would be my last choice. Sonotubes are designed to get below the frost line and provide a smooth wall surface so that they resist frost heave. UK frost line might only be a few inches though.
With footings, You also want to get down to undisturbed soil regardless of frost depth. At the side of the house where your foundation was excavated, you’re most likely dealing with poor load bearing uncompacted backfill. same consideration with backfilled landscaped gardens.
I wouldn’t be following WCA’s approach tbh. Hopefully there’s no structural fasteners connecting the joists onto the leger board and its just load bearing..

Looks like screw piles are just the ticket but presumably you still need geotech to spec the number and sizing?

All they want is good working and middle class jobs

Assume they want jobs doing the same old thing without having to retrain or learn something new.
See also Alberta oil patch and the seeming unwillingness to move the O&G workforce into renewables

“out-of-touch”

Given his support from the youth, wouldn’t that put him very much in-touch?

Build an interior stud wall in front of the brick wall attached to the floor and rafters (sil gasket between floor and bottom stud). Spaced away from the brick for a complete thermal break. Whatever insulation and vapor barrier that fits your budget (spray foam, mineral wool, wool wool, Kingspan or whatever rigid foam is called in the UK)
French drain/weaping tile perimeter drain outside with whatever other moisture management you need on the footings.

Plasterboard, ply or whatever to finish.

Would be cheaper and easier than outsulation id expect. But depends if you’re ok to loose that space internally.

Seems pretty labour intensive. That vid was apparently 2 guys for 1 day plus 2 revisits.
Diy ready of course but what it it looks a bit sh*t when it’s done and you either replace or devalue your efforts.
Guaranteed results with quartz for example as a counter.
(Not saying you couldn’t do a banger job, but what if the product doesn’t allow you to achieve banger results)

Worked on a reno project where a garage flooring pro did epoxy (over ply) coated kitchen countertops and epoxy interior floors. Looked awful in the flesh still after his 3rd do over. Complete waste of money imo. Owner probably won’t be able to live with it for long.

Take Instagram results with a pinch of salt… Lipstick on a pig with filters = supermodel!

Uni mate informed me of his perceived benefit of sitting to pee… How odd I thought.. particularly when it turned out he sat facing the cistern…

Anyway, moving out of a house with carpeted bathrooms and into my own place I certainly noticed the backsplash… Have another mate who would literally peppersplash our grey tile floor after peeing.
Once we had mini humans crawling about, I absolutely converted. I sit at home to pee. In public 100% standing. At friends houses.. probably would sit. When I’m in and out of holiday rentals working or I specting then I’m sitting to prevent soiling the clean and having to do it again.
It’s not necessarily about me or my convenience but about consideration of my kids and others. My boys are tall enough that I’ll be asking them to sit pretty soon.

Sand/degrease, seal prime to stop the knots bleeding and paint with a “flocked foam” roller. Alkyd enamel melamine with proper drying between coats will be bomb proof and the Flocked foam will give a powder coat finish. Amazing roller naps.
Or spray booth for simplicity.
Don’t forget to fill and sand any dents/scratches, knots etc. Car bodywork spot putty is great for this.
Changing hardware? Plug, fill and sand.

I work with the tongue edge facing away. Left>right seems more natural but depends on you boards/room config.
Take the loose next row board and tilt up a little and squeeze a line of glue along the groove then slide it onto the tongue of the board that’s already down.
Less glue ooze that way. Use a decent t&g glue though!
Blue painters tape to keep things together.
Offcut of your last board is starter for your next. Stagger your joints and watch the manufacturers joint offset minimums. Aim to have none of the first boards being the same length so you don’t end up with a repeating pattern.

It it’s travertine and you’ve grouted (or used some adhesive/grout combo) and let it dry like that on the tile then you’ve just killed a bunch more.
Looks like paperfaced gypsum backer..and tile installed with mastic. Once wet it’s f**ked and looses all strength
If you knock on each tile you’ll hear which are loose.
Imo you’ll need new backer where it’s wet before trying to retile..I’d be looking at cutting out the tile and backer for the rest of those first 4 courses…valve side as well likely as that corner will have failed and been a point of ingress. Probably wet all round your valve fixing etc too.
Fingers crossed for a close match!

Sacrifice the end cap?
No thread lock on a lock ring so hopefully with the end cap off and axle out you can grip from inside ring

Purchased direct from the brand online who shipped it over to me here in North America.

This is forward downtube shock mount. Not seat tube.
12mo warranty. Bike is technically outside that period but I’m certain that hasn’t happened since month 12.
Not sure how no GB eurozone companies have to address fit for purpose, consumer rights etc.

Predrilling for old fashioned lags and rolled construction screws I can understand but modern designed fasteners don’t need this. GRK for example self cut, self bore and self lock and you don’t have to use 2 tools for each hole. I pay the premium almost every time.

Sounds like you’re in the hardest of the situations here based on you legal obligations.
If there’s no paper trail of your current knowledge of this, perhaps negotiating a redundancy settlement now and walking would be your best move?
As you say, under audit, your head is on the block.

I don’t understand how you’ll get up a climb freewheeling?!

whilst visa etc make more money than they should, I think its a little shameful that the insurance companies make people explore the other options before insurance co’s provide the coverage you’ve paid them for.

Can you verify these shares are even current holdings?
I have a folio of shares that my dad purchased for me as a designated holder. 1 year later we still haven’t transferred everything across.
Anyway, mostly utilities but there’s not a single one that hasn’t reissued the shares since they were first purchased in the 80s/90s. Once reissued the old certificates are no longer of any use or value. It’s entirely possible he may have already surrendered the more recent share issues and this is just old paperwork.
You may want to start by verifying if the certificates represent current holdings. Easy by share value e.g. Severn Trent at 97 17/19p..any certs without that value are just paper.
Others may have merged or been bought out by others. BG for example is now Royal Dutch Shell so BG certs whilst not surrendered for RDS are worthless.

you dont need to turn the entire length of joist into 4″ do you.
Just shim the points at which their load is carried surely.

break out the sanders

I’d probably sand,prep and prime the trim, spray it feathered up onto the walls.
Then mask off your trim and spray/backroll the walls.

We don’t really do oil based paint over here anymore and there are plenty of acrlic/latex paints that will stick just fine to properly prepared previously painted oil based coatings.
Waterborne Alkyd melamine has similar self levelling and durability to oil based paint.

Penetrol is for oil based paints.
Floetrol for water based.

With the gvmt bail out packages being prepared for the wealthy fossil fuel industries, sadly theses an opportunity being missed.

sonotubes/forming tubes with galvanised hardware post feet that you can bolt 4x4s or structure to either set in or bolted in place as if that ground is wet its going to make everything in contact wet.
sonotube diameter or bell footing sized to suit the soil.. down to undisturbed solid dirt if poss.
Don’t set your posts into the concrete they will relatively fail quickly if the grounds wet like you say.
you’ll need more than 2x4s for the floor unless you’re building a trampoline.
Also built high enough for air circulation underneath for drying too. I’d suggest you’re essentially building an elevated deck with a room on top.

Painting the render?
Over here we have “stucco” homes and I’d always prefer an ‘elastomeric architectural coating’ for extended performance.
It is indeed a little more difficult to apply than water based exterior paint but the prep is the same.
The paint might stay adhered for 25 years, but I doubt it’s color/UV stable or self cleaning for that long and the warranty is probably only worth the paper its written on past 5 years.

I’d go with a circular saw with a square. Much more versatile for heavy lumber.
Assume you’re not actually planning to mitre the corners?

Isn’t there a huge generation gap now as far as watches?
Sure when you and your dad were 21, watches were a status thing. My dad got a posh watch when he finished his tenure as managing partner at his firm and that was a thing back then.
These days, unless you’re getting a watch to take photos with whilst pouring a bath of ridiculously expensive champaign, waving a fan deck of cash or dangling your Lambo keys off each finger, then are today’s young adults aspiring to be analogue watch wearers?
I get the tradition but I think you may need to prepare yourself for just an appreciation of the guesture and possibly several decades of the watch sitting unworn.
Perhaps the better way to continue the family tradition would be passing down the watches you already have from generation to generation and thinking of something different for the 21st gift?
Obviously from my personal point of view, I’d prefer to have received my late grandfather’s special watch as an heirloom than a ‘new’ watch with no emotive value beyond it being a traditional gift.