it’s not real, real women don’t behave like that

No, but girls are also watching and seeing what they perceive to be the expectation from them.

Is spray foam the new gig for the asphalt driveway pikeys?
Assume this was a Knock on the door offer of service rather than through a building envelope business?

Builders is such a generic term and in the same way you typically wouldn’t want a builder to install your kitchen, you almost certainly wouldn’t want a builder tiling your floor either.
So, the subtrades need managing regardless.

Tear out old
Correct subfloor level/true/SLC/ screed etc)
Cabinet carcasses in
Flooring install upto cabinet feet and into DW/fridge/oven recesses
End panels, trim, kick plates etc
Install appliances,
Fit drawers, doors etc

What grout was used?
If cementiuous then you’ll want an acidic grout haze remover.
If epoxy, a good scrub with another specialty product or keep it simple with acetone.

I’d say it’s haze that’s the issue from installation.

I doubt you’ll be able to reuse the existing footings so I’d expect you’ll be tearing the lot out then re-excavating for suitable foundations. Plus you’ll want to make sure you’ve an insulated slab anyway.

All with 3m tape from the local autofactors

First version, top (in a rush – needed protection) relief cuts, .
Improved version, bottom, relief shape cut out plus infill piece.

top with relief cuts
bottom, stretched to form with heat. This was about the max I would go and it needs installing with very little soap so it grabs better.

left, relief cuts
right, cutout plus infill.

Invisframe use the relief shape technique on the frame I’ve done with full xpel film kits. Hence me trying it that way

If you managed to stick helitape down with the wet method and no bubbles, you’ve got this.

Anywhere that changes shape over two dimensions is impossible to get right

Youve just got to make appropriately shaped cutouts and infill pieces with the fixed width tape.

Sounds very similar to my BIL. His flat, paid off his fiance’s student debt, she paid half of the mortgage repayments while living there.
She cheated, left, stuck a lien on his flat so he couldn’t sell it with out paying up.
I’d have lawywered up but hes too nice for his own good and paid up.

Cured silicon won’t stick to itself properly so multiple layers won’t work well.
Backerrod to backfill allows the silicon to be installed at a thickness where the material will still be able to flex slightly.
A big monolithic piece won’t flex and will then fail where it bonds the other surfaces.
Also, that uneven gap… Presumably it’s not the tile that wanders up away from the bath but the bath the drops down off level? Does water end up pooling here?
You also want to caulk the bath with the tub loaded..full of water works.

Retrofitting to the underside of an already finished roof designed for airflow? No.
New install on a the underside of an unvented plywood roof deck with a fully adhered butyl/asphaltic membrane over top of the deck creating a homogenous “single layer”? yes.

Diy kits? Nope.

Never a good day :(
When I was in year 12 perhaps, I seem to remember getting given paperwork for a school pupils insurance policy where quite literally every loss had a value attached. Each finger was a different value, then obviously arms, legs, eye(s), life etc all had a payout value. We all joked if it was worth sacrificing a finger.
What does a digit pay out these days?

Nope, too long. genius was 200×55. You need 190×50 per the above measurements.

190×45 is more common if you’re okay loosing 10-20mm rear travel and the tracloc functionality.

Cheaper option?
https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott-x-fusion-e1-rl-rear-shock-for-spark-26-2012-p337061

https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott-dt-swiss-nude-2-rear-shock-for-spark-29-2012-p337005

Impressive life span!
26 or 29?
26 was 190×50
29 was 165×38
Scott moved to fox on that same generation frame so there might be some take offs floating about.

Are you suggesting a wall mounted hand wand or a standing height shower head with the wall mount tap option?
Without a physical connection between the tub and the wall which the shower head or wand are mounted you’ll get the overspray or drip issues anyway. If plumbers is suggesting Hand wand on the tap wall to prevent drips then is he suggesting the metal hose always hangs inside the bath? That’ll look rubbish.

Pressure wise, if the outlet points are at the same height then what’s the difference.

Consider the use. If your girls want to wash their hair, won’t they choose to shower? There’s more water to be spilt from a wet body getting out of the bath than from putting a hand wand back on its hook.

A waterborne alkyd for long lasting and decent levelling. As good as oil.
Flocked foam mini roller if it’s new trim and you want apart like finish or a mohair nap is good over everything else. Cut with a brush you like working with.
Sand to key and clean with a decent paint prep.
I’m not normally one for painters tape but I’ll definately reach for it with skirting to floor. Easy to tuck it between the carpet and bottom of the skirting.

Just bought a 4a for the small size. No pixel 5 stock anywhere and the 6 is too big.
It was a 4a or a proper budget Samsung a12/moto e so I went with the pixel.

I’d be using foam backer rod and flexible caulk at either end of the wall for a clean and finished look. Depending on how much space possibly using roxul (stone wool) to fill the void rather than a can of expanding foam.

Glad you’ve abandoned this “make work” project. As above, grouted holes (or silicon for more gloss) and you’ll not notice. Chrome strip if your ocd needs it. Stanley knife blade laid almost flat will make quick work of the old silicon.
If you did follow through You’ll not match the grout and probably won’t match the subtle coulor and surface gloss of any new tiles…even ones that were left behind under the bath may have “aged” differenly.

Even the best fan dampers let air past. I think you’re asking for toxic air coming straight into your bathroom unless you’ve created a mini p-trap. But even then it probably isn’t handling enough water to keep a trap full.

You’re better off running this down to your bathroom sink and into the sink drain between the plug and trap surely.

The easiest solution probably isn’t the best.

Correct. But wouldnt it be normal to answer that question ?

My bad, let me have another crack.

Q. How do we logistically free up the arable land for feeding 7 billion people through crops?
A. We displace the cows (and other livestock) off the land. We remove the need to grow crops to feed these live stock and use all this available land to feed those 7 billion people with a less intensive and higher nutrition per resource food stuff.

Is that better? Oh wait.. its still about cows.

Brazil has always had a hardwood industry. The issue is that through mass deforestation (illegal in many cases but currently supported by a climate denying leadership) and their rapid slash and burn approach that saw staggeringly poor air quality through much of the south Americas, with no intention to manage this current evolution of forestation and replacing the incredible carbon sink that is the amazon with land for cattle and cattle feed then there is an ever increasing argument against farming livestock for food.
Canadian and I assume European forests are managed and forest stock is rotated through. Oil sands aside, Canada isn’t loosing massive amounts of forest and in 2018 Canada lost 1500 hectares through deforestation to forestry. Across all industries, Canada lost 35000 hectares of forest. I 2020, Brazil deforested a reported 1.1milion hectares..
There’s a big push in Canada to protect the last remaining old growth forests…which is what most of the amazon represents essentially. Fast growing northern hemisphere wood is ideal for building materials. Brazilian hardwood is great for Bentley dashboards and fancy furniture.

I mean with the power that the amazon has to protect our climate. thise poor brazillions Brazil could sell carbon credits and reforest those massive swaths that have been removed. Whilst we have an appetite for consuming cattle, soy and beef are probably the easiest solution rather than thinking outside the box and figuring out a new way of monetizing the living trees themselves.
They could be Brazillionaires!

I guess you can keep asking the same question until you get the answer that you want, though as I guess none of the information above satiates your need to be right, you’ll tell us were answering the wrong question..

But you posted your question *incl the logistics of freeing up arable land* off the back of a quote about eating meat……

The answer is still Cows.

WTF has a question to do with crops got to do with cattle

Crop production requires land. Out Current penchants for meat protein means that much of this land that could produce Crops for human consumption is being used to produce crops..specifically for animal feed.. and also a place those same animals “live”
Production of meat protein is a hugely inefficient process.
So, this cattle diversion is 100% relevant to your question about how we grow enough crops for 7 billion people.. stop using land for meat production.

Stick cowspiricy on your Netflix Play list

Now who is it we know uses a lot of soya 😉

Your mate Billy bovine actually

the Brazilian timber industry is 1/3 the size of Canada’s

Are you talking about legal forestry?
Canada cuts, replants, cuts, replants. Yes Canada are clearing massive swaths of the boreal forest for oil sands which is really shitty, but isn’t the main concern about amazon deforestation that its getting clear cut for cattle and feed for livestock and palm oil for shitty candy.

I’m a bit lost on your crop concerns though dyna-ti. Are you saying that cows are more resilient than crops to “a run of bad weather” can cows go without water and food and are a buffer against drought?

I’m interested to the factors behind not being able to feed people without meat?

I’m onboard with getting rid of massive cattle raising facilities. Meat only available locally through sustainable programs. Yes meat gets hideously expensive but so are truffles and consequently I don’t eat those.

say they cannot give an idea until they see the plans. I don’t have any plans

seems fair.

Its entirely possible to build 2 identical looking houses that perform very differently from an insulation perspective for vastly different amounts of money.

If you want early numbers, wouldn’t exploring a catalogue design from a prefab warehouse built company be a better option. the biggest variable being prepping your site to suit the building footprint?

Reads to me like his then new girlfriend veto’d his attendance of your party and he’s finally out of another toxic relationship and able to get a social life back and recognises you as a genuine friend.
I’d pick up the phone.

Ply is Laminates of a thickness greater than the surface. Could easily be 1/8″ of wood before the glue. Bleach can only treat the surface and won’t penetrate the ply layer(s)..but the water component will still wet the wood further and heavy repeated application of a diluted solution may end up causing ply delamination if exterior grade (waterproof adhesive) ply wasn’t used. Plus heavily wetting a poorly vented unheated space at this time of year wouldn’t be ideal.
Bleach may also leave a surface film behind they prevent the appropriate mould eradication solution from being effective.
Bleach still isn’t the right solution here, I’m unsure why that’s not clear or why increasing the workload is a suggestion.
Concrobium, +ventilation, dry, seal if necessary.

plasterboard is particularly susceptible to mould because it’s porous

Plywood is also porous.
Bleach wont kill the mould below the surface and ultimately will feed the regrowth.

Don’t spray it with bleach.
5 minutes on Google will explain why this is not what you want to do.

As for cleaning, bleach isn’t a <strike>long term </strike> solution to mould.

Sorry, fixed that.

suggested using bleach [initially]

Don’t use bleach.

Mould grows on damp organic surfaces. Not the builders fault but perhaps he could have advised creating airflow to mitigate. Also not his job.
However he has admitted an issue with the materials he used so perhaps scope there to resolve.

As for cleaning, bleach isn’t a long term solution to mould.

Don’t forget you’ll potentially have to deal with the flooring/floor covering.
Can’t put your sill plate over carpet or floating flooring.

Any vapor drive?
If not any your slab is true within floor spec then I’d look at a “double stick” install.
I just did a 1/4″ glue down cork over concrete with glue down 3/4″ t&g engineered oak. Feels and sounds amazing under footfall
2nd floor slab though so no vapor concerns
I’ve done slab on grade with floated 6mil barrier, 2x 1/8 cork, radiant heat film and 1/2″ t&g engineered bamboo. Also feels good but slightly hollow in comparison under footfall

Some flooring adhesives will satisfy vapor barrier requirements and if using cork you have to be careful what adhesive you use.

The foam board will at least give you a thermal break.

Laminate on an uninsulated slab will be a massive heat sink. Any heat you add will get sucked into the slab and be a complete drain on your wallet.

Unless you want to spend significant money insulating the slab just for what is essentially cheap flooring (laminate) then I would probably look at doing a slightly more expensive flooring.
Is there a vapor barrier under your slab? That’ll also dictate what solutions you have.
If there’s no vapor drive then I’d probably look at glue down cork options rated for kitchens. I’d think this is the most economical way to create a reasonable thermal break between your slab and your feet..
With no vapor barrier you’ll likely need to add one.

We just tore out carpet and pad and did 3mm cork underlayment over 6mil poly with a 1/2 cork floated over top. Crazy improvement over uninsulated slab on grade. 3 coats of 2k polyurethane and it should be bomber.

Only way I wanted to do radiant heat under floating engineered bamboo was with 4″ XPS foam under the slab, 12mm cork underlayment and 2″ foam on either side of the footings. 100sqft of heat and this turned out to be our primary heat source in the house.

You want to schedule Wi-Fi access and the only wireless devices you have are phones? You know how phones work, right?

Haha, No.. I want a schedule to turn the entire wifi radio off. As in off…off off. Not just just idle with the wifi devices not accessing it.

Receptions not a major concern. 2.4 and 5ghz AC both provided sufficient reception throughout the out stick built house. Turns out the new ISP provided AX router allows my kids mate who lives ~100m down the street to use it from his house too so I guess I should do a ssid/password change

The Asus 86u looks great but might be a little more than I need. I will look deeper into this and the synology.
ta

I got double thumb casts Some 15 years ago following a house reno. Pinch lifting drywall sheets and setting 400sq ft of 12×24 porcelain floor tile plus the wringing out of sponges almost certainly caused mine.
Casts for a couple of weeks which made life awkward but mostly recovered following their use. I have to be careful still and try and wring sponges/cloths different now when tiling and I still get twinges every now and again to remind me to be careful or do a few thumb stretches.

In addition to washser woman’s thumb, I’ve had a skiiers thumb injury since. The dequervains definately lurks more though.