If the dumb **** in the US are stupid enough to vote him in then they deserve everything coming their way

Its more than just the American population that suffers though isn’t it!

you could interpret the data to suggest that Taylor Swift has the 6th highest selling album in china since 2019.

Only 1.8mil copies, but that represents 25% of the sales of the highest selling artist.

Anyone is better than an evil Biden

MTG called, she has some new material for you

I think you’re right, its not plywood with perpendicular layers but looks like 3 layers parallel in grain.

but ‘gorilla tape’ or simmilar will do the same job for all intents and purposes.

no, it wont, not for more than a short while anyway.

Darn that pesky duck, his days were numbered when the gorilla showed up.. now the T-Rex is here and theres a new apex tape.

duct tape fix is appropriate

Common misnomer though isn’t it as most people call ‘duck tape’ derivatives “duct tape”, but tape you use on duct work is called aluminized foil tape, not duct tape.

Gaps, no good. Here building code would be min 4x sheet metal screws at each joint in round tube then foil taped air tight.

Closest thing I can find is Porodaedalea pini.

Could therefore be that the tree was felled like this back in the 70’s when it was more prevalent in the PNW forests and was used as cheap lumber for the late 70’s building boom.

Can’t find much info about whether or not it’s a major concern beyond reduced strength, which can be addresed

Could also be something different, but there is zero spread to other lumber in contact.

here’s the problem with large format tiles in 50% brick layout. Particularly prevalent with cheap chinese tile means Warpage or cupping along the longest length means that you can’t avoid lippage in the center.  You could split it and have imperfections at the and joints as well as the center of the longest length but the setter has likely just focused on lippage where they butt on the shortest length. 33% overlap is often a solution

almost wrapping a perfect bleed on magura’s back in the day, then pop goes a piston as I forgot the spacer – again…

Oops

I got one, but my OCD is triggered by the hot Patches

If it’s not tanked, or the drain has failed causing the sub base to rot/deteriorate and opened up some gap in the tanking then you need to reinstate the waterproof layer.

Yes a 1 piece tray might be ok, but without tanking that runs up the walls or is integrated with the wall tanking, then you’re only going to be relying on a bead of silicon to stop water that runs down the walls from getting under the tray again.

Tear out time I reckon or you’ll be chasing leaks and you’ll end up tearing it out anyway.

Our intention is air to water heat pump providing ufh and dhw.

Europe seems to be well ahead of American manufacturers so should be some decent options.

Can be below minus 10deg through the winter for short periods but seems like a reliable solution on the american north west coast

tied properly to the beams underneath

Actually, with Schluter, they specifically call for the additional layer of ply to *not* be screwed to the joist structure but to be screwed to the subfloor below.

schluters handbook is great if you want to avoid problems. Unfortunately some assume just using that layer of orange is a problem solver on its own.

Concrete/cement backerboard offers no real benefit as far as floor deflection. Waste of material really to use both.

Foreign construction dimensions here but ditra is good for 5/8″ ply (16mm) plus on 16″ on center joists.

Obviously your span and structure  is also important

It’s possible to install tile on ditra poorly e.g. not filling the voids completly etc.

Ditra I’ve seen fail has been prefill waffles with tiles set later.

Nothing wrong with tile on floors if installed right.

I’ve used polymeric joint sand on a couple of pavered patios.

After pavers are laid on properly compacted base and coarse bedding sand, spread the sand and sweep into all joints.
Run plate compacter over entire sand covered patio. Refill by brushing again and repeat if necessary
Sweep up excess sand. Use a yard blower to get rid of the rest of the surface sand without blowing it out of the joints.
Then once clean. mist with water without flooding or pooling.

Genuinely interested as to how this thread was displayed in the forum in order to be resurrected?

Flocked foam rollers for a powder coat like finish with little mess – with a decent self levelling alkyd type paint, not your local diy merchants best emulsion.
Trouble is they only come in 4″ so 7 doors racked like kayak (plus lifted off the floor) will take you a good few days factoring in drying time for multiple coats especially with extender.
If you’ve doors with details, panels, insets etc, may as well take the time and prep for spraying as whilst totally feasible to brush the reveals and roll the flats, it’s even more time still.

I’m not sue how you could beat a monopoured icf footing for price/performance.
less excavation, less concrete and done in 1 visit, no flatwork.
EPS insulation too so less environmental impact as a bonus over a huge amount of concrete with XPS under

I’ve 3 extensions to do on my next project, 2 living spaces will be icf strips with a bag footing and joist structure above. the other (garage) will be insulated slab on grade. The garage portion will be the most expensive of the 3

suppose it depends if your kit can be built on a wooden subfloor vs a slab

You have a few bags full of cameras?
Like more than 10?

Tight fit you say.. is it an alcove bath, i.e. wall to wall with tile meeting the tub at all 3 sides?
If so, its destructive removal, no question.
Assuming the bath has been installed to best practice, it’ll need surgical removal to not compromise, or allow the wall to bath tanking to be reinstated.
Trouble with wall to wall baths is that they don’t get smaller when you manoeuvre them out of position, only bigger.
Be prepared for significant work to replace.
Not saying you shouldn’t have that result, but you’ll need to make a decision of potentially adding another 50% of time to the project with potentially compromised waterproofing (seriously persuasive reasons) or a repair and heaviy discount and a finished bathroom next week.
The bath manufacturer would also be a useful resource.

I’d want to be seeing a door set on a sill pan to provide positive drainage past the outside of the building envelope.
But my experience is wood built houses or on slab installs.
I cant see any reason why you would want any runoff down the face of the doors sitting on a course of bricks and relying on caulk over foam to stop that water weaping under the door.

was going to pull the trigger on an Anycubic Kobra neo for similar money to an ender 3 with the auto levelling bonus. but then the question for whether a resin printer might have more longevity and be a better purchase?

Off the point but it seems somewhat counter productive to kiln dry firewood doesnt it.

The original gas guy didn’t recommend anything beyond the pump/valve replacement to get the system working and complete his certificate until we queried how the boiler was now inoperable and deemed to be condemned by BG homecare.
It was working for the 20 minutes after he installed the pump/valve whilst doing his tests then was off when BG came to do their home inspection

(The homecare visit was to check the property as ok to resume insurance.. it had lapsed previously and as far as we know we had all systems working)

The suggestion that the system “didn’t seem to be in good condition” was following asking if he had any input as to how we go from his gas safe issuance to BG condemned inside a week.
His answer that sludge could have got into the boiler at any time after his work. Asked why he didn’t recommend a service if he was able to suggest that the system appeared to be in poor condition, was that he was only appointed to do a gas safe certificate and that it was not a service call.

My first though was BG were trying it on, they did offer flush and repair but suggested this may not be a reliable repair. the system was flushed with the new boiler install and since then BG have, under homecare replaced 2 radiators at no cost.

I’m at arms length on this and not the one making phone calls and getting quotes.

BG homecare does seem to give piece of mind for those at home dealing with things. My solo mum uses it frequently and I think genuinely cost effective. The other option would have been fully managed letting agents who wanted to be able to initiate repairs totally 3mo rent without prior approval. BG seems the least worse.

chalk up to experience I guess.

Being told cats are smelly by non cat owners… As useful to the tread as being told you’re a shit parent in a kids thread by a person that doesnt have kids.. with carpets repugnantly stained in cat urine.

in the spirit of sods law, my bosch impact just quietly died :(

airgap to the outside behind the siding? this should be ventilated allowing airflow bottom up.
Ply impermeable? Nope.. its semi-permeable

Been there. Turns out if you book from a UK website in GBP then UK/Eu rentals come with 3rd party liability by law (iirc)
We booked my wife’s rental via the global/cdn redirect site in $cdn for our cdw coverage so they had a loop hole. 10hrs on an airplane with 2 kids solo parenting and she didn’t have the energy to argue, so kudos to your wife for standing her ground.
I had to fight it retrospectively which was a challenge.

One of the many reasons tool rental places exist.

My 18v Bosch brushless drill and impact with bit/socket drive chuck have been faultless. Mix of little2.0 and big4.0 batteries depending on workload.
I added a 12v flexiclick driver recently and wish I’d done so earlier as it’s a really handy bit of kit.

Milwuake now seem to be king of the battery ecosystem over here at the moment though.

Kerdi tray, kerdi drain, kerdi kerb (or not) and tile for whatever shape you want if you’re creative enough.
Other ‘modern system’ options are available.
Old fashioned tanked mud pan and drain if you’re old school or have a really bizarre shape to work with.
As long as your perimeter is level and everything slopes to the drain then crack on.

I switched to Vivobarefoot some time ago.

For most, isn’t that around the same time they start CrossFit and go vegan? ;)

I’m no expert and my risk appetite is low.
We pushed ourselves to become mortgage free 5 years ago, felt great immediately but in hindsight it wasn’t everything we hoped. We thought we’d then have the opportunity to stretch ourselves further to start setting up our kids future. As it was, we just spent more of our disposable as opposed to saving more whereas out low interest mortgage was actually a fairly effective excuse of putting money aside.
If it were me, assuming your parents estate includes the house that they owned, i’d keep that, rent it and use that income to pay my own mortgage. Then once your 7yo is ready, you’ve provided him a house.
Property somewhat tracks property so why release equity from a property now to put it in an investment that may not be large enough to buy an equivalent house in 10 years time when he needs one.

can you not get siliconized gun applied tile caulk in the UK?
colour matched, water cleanup with an easy 5 minute working time.
designed for inside corners as well as tile to tub.

Cougar, whilst your IT experience is invaluable in threads like this, I do think you should stand away from any parenting comments.

“Back when I was a kid, if a mate of mine ignored ‘bedtime’ commands his dad would pull the circuit breaker to his room.”

Is essentially the same thing…

more efficient and sustainable way to form the weatherproof skin of the building

the weatherproof skin is rarely the aesthetic surface finish anyway, its just rainscreen and the waterproofing happens behind all that

Weird that the north american arm is more conservative with thinset recommendations. Science is the same everywhere :)
I would note that the above response from schuter refers to c2/c2f but it’s the S1 rating that would have me second guessing.
The product technical sheet states “polymer modified”, which is where the north american term comes from.
My work is based on TCNA/ANSI so I do appreciate it is indeed irrelevant to UK stuff.
As you were. Sorry.

why backfill that 30cm with floorboards? I’d aim to have the same subflooring down on the entire surface
a inch of ply on 16″ centers is well inside Schluter’s spec for ditra (assuming you’re not on a ridiculous span or using 2×2 tile)
Adding another ply layer, schluter don’t call for gluing it down, there’s a specific offset and screw patterns and 10mm minimum thickness.
Schluter also recommend unmodified (or lightly modified) thinset to set tile to the ditra. Ditra’s uncoupling is doing the same job (but better) than flexible thinset and the modified stuff will take much longer to dry with large format tile as the modifiers need air to dry, which tile over ditra doesn’t allow for much of.