FFS!
Just bought a 456c and I get the impression that they should employ some proper design engineers from the other posts on here.
“this is all part of the testing” understandable but seem to sense an undercurrent of ( here’s something else we can flog before it’s finished developed)
maybe the designers would benefit from some basic engineering training
I would say mainly top seals once of twice a year (depending on how much you ride) and change the lube / bath oil at same time. Damper cartridge once a year if your riding alot.
fork seal service is really easy, instructions on fox site would take a numpty about an hour.
If not send to Loco etc..
Intense bikes are shit. If the chainstays aren’t failing the pivot bolts fall out. Customer service outside the US is non existent.
I have a very nice 6.6 frame hanging on my wall cause I couldn’t bring myself to sell it to an unsuspecting buyer.
Thanks to the guys who posted useful advice
Much appriciated
The other comments are obviously by sad trolls.
it appears it is true what they say about this forum these days
very sad.
Thanks Thebrick,
I know enough about m.t.b sizing etc..
Just looking for pointers really with regard to what to look for with a road bike with it being more of a fixed postion and more lay down.
My local pc shop has a test rig which checks all the rail voltages off the psu.
Also places the psu on load to seem which one of the rail voltages buggers off,
do u have a good local shop?
take em some biscuits or buy something off them etc for a favour
Pedalling or not?
I run a air can so can’t comment really on the fox coil set up.
Tend to find this only when pedalling slightly which i assume it should anyway.
Can take a while to find the sweet spot and know other more lardy rider have had issues with mid travel blow through which also affected early DW 5 spots (pre-boost valve RP 23)
Maybe you are bewteen spring rates or too much spring pre load or compression tune, (i take it the Fox DHX you mention doesn’t have low and high compresion adjustment?)