What I should have said is that if you ate the fruit/veg you’re going to juice you’d be a lot better off.

Probably the worst thing you can do for long term weight loss in my opinion.
Your metabolism will slow right down as your body will no longer need to digest your food.
If you are using fruit juices, you will be getting all the sugar without your body having to chew/ break down/ digest the fruit.
That’s only an opinion as I’m no expert.

Ohlins have demo shocks, my local shop (Pearce cycles in Ludlow) has some. Limited in sizes at the moment.

Of the options you have there I’d definitely go for the inline coil for £200.
I don’t have an enduro 650 but I’ve ridden them with the inline air, monarch and ohlins shocks. The ohlins is (unsurprisingly) far and away the better shock.
I’ve only ridden a piggy back double barrel and not on an enduro but if the inline is anywhere near to that then it will get you close to the ohlins performance without the cost or weight, and you can set it up exactly as you like.

I’ve had a couple of enduro 29ers with monarchs and they are pretty good but definitely not worth £400. You should try returning the inline as specialized have replaced a couple of mine with monarchs on warranty. I’d still choose an inline coil for £200 though.

Specialized Hillbilly grid front and rear for me.

I use them sometimes, just remember to change them as they will wear the axle.
The bushes are the same as manitou shock bushes.

There are no issues bonding Ali to Carbon. Just make sure you use the correct primer (or seal in an airtight container until bonding) after you’ve prepared the surface of the Ali.

I’ve had 170,00 miles out of my 2.5 T5. The turbo blew at about 80,000 miles (If my memory serves me correctly) the water pump went at about the same time. I’ve just had to replace the power steering pump which VW told me would need replacing on my service at about 50,000. Got an extra 120,000 miles out of it by just topping it up.
It is very tempting to just have it flat out everywhere which probably has something to do with the driveshaft issue.
I’d get another over a 1.9 from my own experience.

Rxf 36 is available in 150mm. Local shop has one in but are waiting on the 160mm. Personally I think a five 29er would be great with a 160mm fork though.

Sounds familiar. As mentioned above, for me the problem is hip flexors and glute activation. Plenty of stretching of the hip flexors, not just riding, but every day (my back pain ended up being more than just on the bike). And also dead lifts and squats if you use a gym. Otherwise a few goblet squats or pistols squats will help your leg/glute strength and also help you to stand up more whilst climbing.
The dead lifts should also improve your standing posture for downhill too and you’ll also fatigue less and consequently maintain better posture for longer.

I think there is a 2015 evo in my local shop. Pearce cycles in Ludlow. As stated above the chainstays on the stumpy and camber were quite long which I absolutely loved on my stumpjumper. Not sure that would make it feel poppy but it did give plenty of grip on the front wheel.

It’s quite a lot of work to produce the cad files that would be needed for a 3d printer or cnc machine. If you use a laser scanner, the scanning process is actually pretty quick, depending on the intricacies of the scanned component. But cleaning up the point cloud to produce a decent stl file to covert to CAD data is quite a long process.
The issue would be finding somewhere/someone with the right equipment and who can then process the cad data.
If there are any composite companies near you, it could be worth contacting them as they may have a faro or romer arm with laser scanner and the staff to use it.

It may be easier to cast a mould (possibly silicon or epoxy putty depending on the shape) off an original and then cast the replica, if someone were willing to let you do that off their original.

Transition Surpressor.

Good point on the shock! Mine is 2015 and has a monarch and £4600 (I think). To build up an enduro with a 36 would cost a fortune though and would hardly be any lighter.

The weights and prices look comparable to similar comparable bikes. My carbon specialized enduro weighs 30lbs with decent tyres and kit on it, comparable to the alpine which has a better fork and shock and comes stock with quality tyres for the job the bike is made for.
A cheaper spec would get a pike and monarch shock (on the orange) would also save weight and bring it down to what the Enduro and most other bikes weigh.

Pearce cycles in Ludlow had a brand new 26″ demo frame for £500 at their last race. Your forks etc would swap straight over, you’d just need a new rear wheel and chainset. Size small only though I think, but worth asking.

I used a specialized adaptor on my stumpy evo to run a standard shimano threaded bb. Just make sure you glue it in as like mentioned above the tolerances on the bb she’ll are not great. If it’s loose in the frame it can wear the frame away.
I use a praxis bb now, but have been told the works bb is better for the purpose.

Mine is a large carbon frame and the seat stay bridge had clearance with it fully bottomed out. I imagine the Ali frame would have more clearance again. I didn’t check if the chainstay collided with the rear of the seat tube/bb area. I’ve since noticed some marks in that area but they could be from something else.
The bike felt much better with the link. Felt quite similar in terms of position to the 650 enduro.

I ran the link with a monarch. The ohlins is the same length as the monarch.
I have ran an ohlins coil on the bike as my local shop have a demo shock. The performance of the shock is unbelievable. Even climbing with no lock out was pretty good. Downhill is as you would expect. Better than the double barrel coil on my dh bike.

Fitted ok in mine. Specialized are reluctant to sell the link now though as they don’t recommend it.

Just seen one in the local shop in sterling silver. Not far off the original P7 in colour.
I had a prestige before the P7 came out and it remains one of the nicest bikes I’ve ever had. Would seriously love one of these new ones.

Is the chainring new too? I had the same issue but it was because the chainring was slightly worn. I just turned it around and it’s been silent since.

I’m running that with a hope narrow wide. Works perfectly. As mboy states the front makes little difference to the rear.
The only issue I had was a grinding noise because my chainring was slightly worn. I turned the chainring round and everything has been perfect and silent since.

I’d be doing them before the turbo to make sure that your form isn’t compromised. If your form on the turbo is compromised it’s not a problem but you’ll get far more out of the squats by doing them well.
Make sure you concentrate on using your gluteus and hamstrings.
With those weights you’ll probably want to be doing split stance squats or Bulgarian split squats. This will also even out any imbalance between left and right legs. It will not only increase your power but improve your stance on the bike and I find my riding with my wrong foot forward is massively improved.

I had an amazing week in Jamaica. Check out singletrack Jamaica for a riding holiday like nothing else.

I’m liking my 100% winter gloves. Nice and slim. Not fully water proof but good enough and your hands stay warm even when they are wet.

They’re £850 in my local shop. Pretty respectable. Less than a fox 36.

The chain ring will be fine, but if it is worn, it may make a horrible grinding noise. Mine did. I just turned the ring around and it’s been fine since.

I don’t have an ohlins on mine, but my local shop has them to test. I have used it loads of times. Uphill I was was expecting it to be a pig, especially as I tend to do steady climbs to downhills.
Once I’d turned a few pedal strokes, I barely noticed any difference to either the inline or monarch. The main thing I noticed climbing wise was that I never touched it, whereas with the other shocks I would always switch it to climb.

Downhill, or any technical sort of riding was where it absolutely excelled. It felt like the double barrel coil which I have on my downhill bike.
I’d love to try the ohlins air, but they are not in yet.

Broken ankle here. Just watched the replay of the RedBull straight rhythm.
Might watch the Brian Foster documentary (again) later.

Manitou shock bushes are the same size. They’re easy enough to find.

@Generallevi, Carbon can be threaded straight into. If all that’s wrong with your frame is the threads, it could also potentially be repaired.
You’d have to find a keensert for the thread you need and drill and tap the frame for the keensert.

Your plan seems good to me.
With the scarf as large as you have prepared you should be able to see the orientation of each UD ply. Unless of course they are all at 0 degrees.
Laying up UD plies at +\- 30 over such a small area will have next to no effect. You’d be better off with woven plies at +/-45. Most of your plies (if not all) should be at 0/90.

The first ply down should definitely be a woven ply. Ideally the last ply too but as this will be the visible ply you might want it to match the frame.
It’s not ideal to bond to UD fibres so make sure you prepare the surface well and get it as clean as possible.
If you put UD down as your last ply it might be a good idea to put a woven ply down before the last ply.

No worries.
I think for 2016 the 650 enduro has a longer top tube than this year.
I’ve also ridden a couple of 2016 stumpy’s and if I were buying I’d probably get the bright yellow stumpy (don’t know what model it is) or the green one and change the forks for pikes. My stumpjumpers and enduro have all been carbon but although it is slightly lighter and little stiffer, I couldn’t really recommend the carbon over Ali.

Can’t really help as I’m nowhere near you, but I have a current enduro 29. I have a size L and I’m about 6′ with a 40mm stem I feel it is maybe too small and the xl would maybe put me in a better position for the downhills.
For seated pedalling the length is fine.

As for the stumpy v Enduro, I had the 2014 stumpy evo 29er and I think the overall balance was far better than the enduro, once I had got used to it. The long chainstays on the stumpy gave it masses of grip on the front and it felt really composed. The new stumpy is quite a lot different though.
The enduro with its short chainstays feels livelier, quicker in turns and more agile. The reality is that my stumpy was faster.

Specialized can supply a monarch to fit. Your local dealer should be able to get it from them.
The ohlins coil I tried was fantastic uphill once I’d got it set up. I was also refreshing not to have to flick a switch before and after each downhill.

I got an Enduro 29 about 4 weeks ago and I’ll be looking to swap the inline for a monarch ASAP. I did borrow an ohlins coil shock from the local shop and that was in a different league again.

Pearce Cycles (Ludlow) had a load of minions at their race the other week. Not sure which version though.

Rode a fuze this morning on a specialized demo at Hopton Woods. Great fun to ride. Haven’t ridden a hardtail for a couple of years so can’t make any relative comparisons.
I’d quite like to buy one though and maybe have a set of 29er xc wheels too.

Still waiting for a jyrobike wheel.
Hopefully it will arrive before my nephew gets too big to use it.