Mate of mine has a spare Romic shock with coil if you need one – I’m sure it’ll be cheap. Email me if so.

I’ve owned Horst Link and TNT 5 Spots – and am now on a DW Link 2009 model for the past 6 months. I’ve also run Romic coil, RP23 and a Pushed Float R on them.

A Romic coil is definitely a little smoother and responsive on the HL and TNT Spots and I really liked it for all-round trail riding. Coil forks also work very well on these models but if you go beyond 140mm travel you will likely regret it. A TNT Turner RFX would be a better bet.

On the other hand, if you have the money, get a DW Spot. That thing runs 140mm forks just fine and is outstanding with 150mm or 160mm. I use Lyrik coil U-Turns on mine and it is a whole level beyond HL and TNT Spots in terms of capability.

Spots have always been versatile, but the DW link models have upped the ante considerably over their predecessors.

I still have my TNT Spot and sometimes ride that and the DW SPot back-2-back…. the difference is remarkable and obvious to everyone who’s ridden them with me.

Save ya pennies! :-)

Name & shame…

Sour grapes??

I don't own either a Lynskey or Van Nic 456 so no axe to grind here…

Merely trying to help the OP with an observation from someone who's actually qualified on the subject, rather than some of the e-speculators who seem to increasingly frequent this place.

Sheesh!

MrSmith: yes, I do. That's not what I said though is it?

Also, pretty sure that the dropouts on the older Lynskey's were inserted into the chainstay and then the gap welded shut. The later Lynskey's had proper formed ends of the dropouts, shaped kind of like bullet ends, to increase weld area. The brace is just there to reduce flex and make sure it literally can't happen again.

Look carefully at both frames and you will see a big difference in weld quality.

A mate of mine has a Lynskey-built Ti456 and the quality of welding is of extremely high standard.

Yesterday, while having a mid-ride tea break at a local hotspot I was looking over two Van Nicholas frames and tbh the welds were shocking. Instead of that "stack of nickels tipped over" effect you see on high end Tig welded tube junctions the welds had been very obviously rubbed down, finished off etc. The only reason you would do this as a frame builder is to tidy up crappy welds…

Whatever claims people make about how good Van Nicholas, Chinese manufacturing is, etc.. you just can't compare a new Ti456 to the old one.

The guy welding the frame in the factory in China probably earns as much as the guy across the street in a different factory that makes rubber shoes. Why exactly should he care about quality?

By the way, I am a qualified and certified welder, so do a know a thing or two about this.

From the pic above of the broken chain/seat stay, that is poor weld penetration, no question. It's not a design fault. Every manufacturing process will have a margin of error – a "parts per million" failure rate. That welder obviously had an off day, but there's no reason to suggest it's a common fault – and compared to what I saw on the Van Nic's I know which one I'd choose!

As above – None!

No – an '05 is intended for 130mm forks, but I ran mine with 140mm on and it felt good.

160mm will upset the handling and it;ll ride like a pig.

The 2004 Spot's were designed around a 120mm-130mm fork, so no, a 160mm fork is a bad idea – it will upset the geometry, making it feel ike sh1te, plus it's more fork than the frame can take.

160mm on my new DW Spot is fine – but that's designed to take it.

I've had 2005, 2006, 2008 Spots and now DW link… a 140mm fork will be OK on anything Horst Link or TNT rear end.

Love it.

Reading the interview, some pretty sound Marketing reasoning (I realise that's an Oxymoron to some) behind it too.

Wow, being in a position to buy a nice car certainly stirs up some latent negativity among the STW massif doesn't it?

My advice: do what I did and get a Porsche 996 Carrera PLUS an old beater estate (I got an Isuzu Trooper) to chuck muddy bikes/dogs/children into.

I prefer the looks of the Touareg over the Cayenne if you go down that route anyway.

Jedi – Horsham skatepark is good and has 5ft spine, two 4ft jump boxes, several 6ft 1/4's etc..

Crawley is good also and has 5ft jump box, big bowl etc..

Brighton the Level is basically just one 7ft 1/4 and a flat bank.

There's a mini skatepark in Hove too… but very, very limited.

Eastbourne has bigger ramps and has nice jump boxes and nice 1/4's and is "quite big" according to my boy!

Call me if you want any more info – you still have my number?

By the way, Tony and I had a BLAST in Morzine – jumping confidence hugely improved, pumping, looking, footwork etc… very, VERY noticeable improvements post your course. Can't wait to come again!

Many thanks guys….

No – the camera is poop!

It's also shabby and broken, so in need of a new one anyway…

I had a Roberts Dogs B**x which I had made in 1991 which did me proud for 5yrs, sold to mate who's still riding it.

It went back for a repaint about 10 years ago but other than that rides pretty much the same now as it did when new.

I'm trying to twist his arm to sell it back to me – it's a classic.

How many ya got?

I'd be interested in buying them..

Speaking of getting old, I wish they'd up the frickin' font size so us old geezers could read the bl**dy thing… I need to squint at it to make it out.

…on a more serious note, for me a new bike usually starts with a bare frame but I've also built bikes around a pair of forks I selected first..

I have ridden it (should have been clearer in my original post)… the jury is out on it AFAIC..

Don't like him at all – comes across as a complete nob.

Nevertheless, don't wish him any ills and respect to him for his talent and perseverance.

That's what it is indeed…

Pop Tarts?

This has completely passed me by….

What is a 'DE' razor?

The way that bike shops do it is to find out from the frame manufacturer what the chainline is (e.g. 52mm, 53mm, etc) and use calipers to measure that distance from the centre of the seat tube to where that should put the middle chainring (or single ring if SS).

You should therefore ask On One what the chainline is for this frame.

Since they should already have a lot of info about whatever cranksets they fit at the factory as standard to this frame they should also be able to give you a pretty good answer to your question about what BB axle length you require. I'd be astounded if they couldn't.

"What you own, owns you".

My mate's Father-in-law.

Lived in the States 15 yrs ago where everything is automatic and I've driven them ever since.

They are just soooo nice compared to all that shifty/clutchy malarkey. Recently bought a Porsche with manual and sooooo wish it was an auto – and the Posrche auto is faster than the manual too!

Other cars in the family are a cheapy Isuzu Bighorn auto and a Kia Sedona auto… loverly!

It's not about the amount that fans have spent getting/being there – it's the disappointment with an utterly crap performance.

I booed them too and watched it from my living room at home having spent £0.00 getting there.

They deserved it.

These guys are paid millions a year for 90mins work per week. Yes, my wife says "but they train hard all week too"… so frickin what? I work 12hr days 5 days a week.

After the game, wifey, kids and I watched yesterday's stage of teh Tour of Switzerland.. MUCH better viewing, excitement and value for money from real sportsmen.

If the disease is airborne what's the point of a wheel wash?

I would assume the comment about Middleburn's being comparable to XT is purely speculation.

I'm considering whether to buy the same 2 choices – XTR or Middleburn.

So far I'm leaning toward Middleburn because:

1. They are pretty much as light as XTR

2. I can run more options over time: Single, Duo or Triple chainrings (will likely start with "poor man's 2×10", i.e. 2×9 with the new RS8 X-Type and Duo ringset – available in a few weeks' time)

3. Replacement chainring cost is significantly less on the Middleburn's than for XTR

I don't see why a pair of cranks that weigh the same as XTR and have equally good finish would be compared with a lower crankset?

Did you get 1-on-1 training or group session?

Pics pls… and 2nd dibs if daveagiles doesn't take her.

If the cold caller is female, just ask "What colour knickers are you wearing?"

Usually works…

What do your respective bikes weigh please?

Am considering the DW Spot versus an SC Nomad II – either bike with either an air shock or an upgrade to CCDB.

Do the right thing – email them and alert them.

adam – what size is your 5 Spot? I 'm looking for an HL Spot…

Also, the DOGS BOLX is still being used – but by a very good friend who lives in Spain. I'm now on a Turner, among other things.

Front tyre in the top pic was a Continental – don't remember the model name though.

In the bottom pic they were a pair of very special limited edition Vredestein's that I was lucky enough to be asked to test.

I think Clegg's giving credible answers – whereas DCam is sounding 'sound-bytey' and Gordon sounds like the liar he has been for a long time.

Can't believe no-one's mentioned "I Stay Away" and "No Excuses"

I found them OK but all I did was rent a bike for a test.

Pedal & Spoke in Peaslake are good – either Howard or Joe.

I'm glad there's riders like you.

Frees up the downhills for riders like me! :-)