try riding a 24″ jump bike down a rocky decent then tell me bigger wheels are not better 🙂

i see cyclestore have some lupine wilma 5’s on sale
an there about as good as night lights get 🙂

in the workshop i see more hayes formulas avid ect.. in for repairs needing new seals an pistons due to seazing.
hopes are very relable, i would definitly consider shimano brakes, in my opinion they are by far the most relable brakes you can buy.
avid an hayes come with the most power followed closely by formula.
then shimano and hope. but even the hopes and shimanos will lock up your wheels given a good grab.
and unless you want to stop a 45lbd dh bike. thats enough.

i run the avid elixir 5 brakes and find i need to clean them out each time i give the bike a good once over. after cleaning them take the pads out and silicon lube the pistions and make sure they are moving freely. really this hould be done on all brakes but on avid hayes and formulas it is life or death of the brakes.

i am buying a set of the new shimano xt brakes in a week or two,:D

my opinion is that there must have been a bad batch of spokes out there.
because bad builds will have spokes snapping at the neck near the hub for undertensioned wheels. and on the 1st threads for over tensioned wheels. a snap directly in the middle suggests a problem with the way the spoke has been butted and drawn out. probbably a thin spot in the metal. causing a weak spot, if you get it rebuilt and it does this again then either use 36h wheels or 2mm plain gauge spokes.

theres only one way posssible.
u need to use a is to post mount. hope do them
hope is to post

with the hope one you will need to use a 180mm disc.

hope this helps, your sids will be ok with a 180mm

27 years young 😀
been working as a bike mechanic in ibd shops since i was 20.
and fixed my own bike since i was 15.

that guy droping his post on the vid belongs in a circus. i am sure most of us are capable of doing what he does no problem, but really thats just stupid, why do that when i can have the ease of a simple push button to do that for me 😛

to cover the post and keep the dirt of it use one of these simple fixes they fit real nice 😀
http://lizardskins.com/store/products/rear-suspension-boot
use ing a zip tie top and bottom to keep it sealed. and remove it every so often to check its clean and re lube the slider and seals

and to keep them running smooth without a little nudge to get them going keep the seal clean after every ride and apply some silicon lube to the seal and slider, just as you do with forks and rear shocks (or should be doing :D.

my post still works fine no problems at all.
seems its just about keeping them in good working order for most of us, although there has been a few bad apples from some of the batches of rs reverbs.

yeay i am all booked in for the race 🙂
i should do quite well on saturday, i think all the beer in the night will make sure sunday goes well too 😀

the new ford deisels are the same engines as the mazdas they may be worth a look in too?

sweet fisher warranty i will say is the best around really.
i had the totem 2 step forks, the 2 step broke they fitted a solo air.
i rode them for a year and the 2 step fix was not avalable so they offered me either the price difference or a full refund 🙂
after a year riding them, thats just above and beyond.

i would be very surpiced thou if the post will be fixed tmz?

if it is then it will only be a bleed issue.

as there still waiting for stock of new dampers at fishers.

reverb post tech documents

i repaired one with the same issue.
the seal head at the bottom of the slider undoes its self allowing the oring to slip out of place. all you need to do is undo it half way slip a little thread lock on the threads, then screw it nice n tight.
give the post a bit of sus greace while you have it in bits.
and your all good.

just what everyou do dont, and i mean dont take the damper apart or the circlip and bits from around the seat clamp off. if you have the post any more apart that in the tech manual (page 6 diagram)
rock shox do not warranty the post and it will cost about £150 for the damper.

to hold the thin shaft i used shimano hose cut holders (the yellow plastic hose holder thingys)
you need to use something like these to hold the shaft in a vice to get the post off the damper.
holding the shaft undo the end with the air valve 🙂
and you should be able to fix the post at home 🙂
and service the slider too saving you endless cash on servicing 🙂

p.s my reverb works ace 🙂

i have to say any honda with the 2.2 cdti engine is well worth a look at. civic, accord, fr-v
they come standard at 150bhp 250f/lb tourqe.
i quick remap and there usuing 190bhp and 350f/lb
quick as a 2L type r honda and 50mpg average.
and all the honda backup warranty to die for.
honda are worth every penny just look at which cars get te best relabilty results.
if hondas are not your fav then anything from the vag group, vw, audi and skoda are a hit too.